Jonesing for a Mamiya C33

Nokton48

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Mamiya C33 New Body 105 DS 80mm 220 Back Porro Finder by Nokton48, on Flickr

Back in the eighties I shot Weddings starting with the Mamiya C33 and 80mm lens. As business continued I picked every Mamiya model to the C330S. Later on I traded all of it and moved to Hasselblad and built that up.

Now I am jonesing for my fave C33 with 220 back and 6X Stovepipe Mag Finder. Add a 283 flash diffused and you are in business! I'm only doing personal work now LOL.

So here is my new to me C33 with 220 Back, 80mm F2.8 Black Lens, 105mm Black Lens, Porro Finder, and 80/105 Lenshood.
All works good, the advance is kindy wonky but working looks home repaired. The Plate/Roll Switch will not fully turn also but dosen't effect anything. Overall a good camera ready to use (when I install new light seal kits). Also I have a backup C22 Body on it's way from Japan. So I am set for Mamiflex TLR again!

Frame Spacing New C33 Body Runs 120 as 220 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Two rolls through the new C33 with perfect frame spacing. But the frame counter goes to 24 and I can't get it to change to 12 exposures. Oh Well for now perfectly usuable. Will load test roll when I finish light trapping the three film backs I will have. C22 is coming from Japan that will be the backup.
 
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grahamp

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The 220 back on the C33 has the pressure plate set for 220 and the second film counter lug in the corner. The 120 back does not have that chrome stud. Running 120 in a 220 back may give you trouble as the film + backing is thicker than the pressure plate setting. You really need a C33 120 back for 120 film.
 
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Nokton48

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I have two 120 backs and one 220 back. I used these for weddings without ever a single failure. I'm using the 120 back, and this C33 body is not switching from 220 metering to 120 metering. So at the end of a roll, I have to wind on past 24 to unload the roll. Right now it's fine, maybe something that will fix itself, but I'm fine with it for now. Maybe something inside will break free and the camera will go back to counting 120

I did try pressing the 220 switch on the back of the camera twenty times (with a jewelers screwdriver) to try to free up the inner mechanism.

Thanks for commenting!
 
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pbromaghin

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Why use a 220 back when there is no 220 film being made?
 
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Nokton48

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pbromaghin said:
Why use a 220 back when there is no 220 film being made?
Click to expand...

Because when 220 B&W was being discontinued and closed out, I loaded up the truck, so to speak. Got some great deals. I have HP5+ 220, TXP320 220, and PXP 220, all cold frozen since purchase. So I need the 220 back to help finish up those stocks. 220 color neg 400 and 800 ASA fed my cameras for quite a while. Still have a few rolls here and there.

That's a good question, and Thanks!

Also Shanghai makes fresh 220 B&W but it appears quality control is a issue :/
 
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AgX

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Never heard of Mr. Jones before. I had to look him up, he seems to be a nice guy.
 
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Nokton48

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Scott_PdP said:
I'm looking for a magnifying hood like that one. Do you wear eyeglasses? Is it heavy or just bulky?
Click to expand...

Weighs practically nothing. It is the only viewfinder I used in the past. I had one on every single Mamiya model I owned. Interchangeable cameras, not interchangeable backs.
 

wjlapier

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I like it. Especially the 220 back. I too have a huge stockpile of 220 in the freezer. Probably outlast me.

I’ve been looking at the Mamiya TLRs lately.
 
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Nokton48

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wjlapier said:
I like it. Especially the 220 back. I too have a huge stockpile of 220 in the freezer. Probably outlast me.

I’ve been looking at the Mamiya TLRs lately.
Click to expand...


Hi Bill,

I much prefer the C33, but then I grew up in the seventies

I have broken C330's but never the C33. Not that much difference in weight, really.
 
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MattKing

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markjwyatt said:
The C330f (and I suspect s) are nice because you just turn the pressure plate and swittch from 120 to 220 film. Same with the C220f.
Click to expand...
It is the same for the plain C330 and C220.
 

markjwyatt

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MattKing said:
It is the same for the plain C330 and C220.
Click to expand...

Wasn't sure about those. Apparently not the C33. My C2 does not (1958-1961/2), but that was created before there was 220 film (1965),
 
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Nokton48

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C33 80mm 283 My Old Wedding Camera by Nokton48, on Flickr
  • Here I have put together my old wedding camera. I carried two of these, one in each hand. That would give me 48 shots without stopping. Great for all kinds of situations. Bullet proof. Kids would approach and want to squeeze the "beach ball". LOL
BTW that's a Bacharach Bracket the precursor of the Stroboframe. I have ten or twelve of the Stroboframes, each with Quantum Bantam and Radio Slaves. Neat and compact.
 
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MattKing

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From Graham Patterson's (@grahamp here on Photrio) excellent Mamiya TLR system summarry:
"
1.12 C33 Modifications
A 220 back for the C33/C22 is known. The only example of a C33 with 220 back that the compiler of this document has examined appeared to be a factory modification with a second frame counter pressure tab. This tab was located beneath an extra cut-away on the upper right rear of the camera body, and a stud was provided on the 220 back to operate it. This has been borne out by examination of a separate 220 back, several 120 capable C33’s, and a C33 manual. This illustration of C33 with 220 back http://grahampatterson.home.comcast.net/~grahampatterson/grahamp/images/mfaq/C33-220.JPG (courtesy of Seth Kantrowitz, New Haven CT. USA) shows the stud and the cut-away at the upper right of the back. The C33 manual states that bodies with serial numbers with an ‘H’ prefix are 220 capable, but others will require modification. This is not the whole story, since at least one ‘H’ serial C33 has been seen which cannot physically accept a 220 back without external modification, even if the internal modifications have been made. A C33 repair manual indicates that there was considerable development of the C33, with many variations in the internal parts, including the film advance mechanism. More use was made of rivets in place of screws, and the gears were made heavier. So it is possible to have C33s with the extended film counter, but no method of using it, or C33s with the modified side panel with the cut-away but no enhanced film advance.

120-only versions have the film start mark at the upper left of the film gate (as with the C3 and earlier models). 220 versions have the mark at the lower left side.

Since the C22 was issued contemporaneously with the C33 modification, it is probable that most C22s were able to use the longer film. Information from a C33 repair manual suggests that very early C22 cameras did not have 220 capability when manufactured. 220 film became available late 1965 and early 1966. This coincides with the introduction of the C22. It is also probable that C33s with 220 capability were of 1966 and later vintage. However, this was a retro-fit option, and cannot be used as a reliable guide.
 
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Nokton48

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mshchem

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Mamiya TLRs are wonderful. I've sold mine off, no regrets since I have too much stuff. I had a bunch of stuff C330F, my favorite gadget is the Paramender for close up work
 

grahamp

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If the 220 pressure switch is sticking, and not amenable to gentle lifting with a screwdriver, the only way to see what is going on is to open up the camera after peeling off the side cover. The rubber is going to be brittle, in all probability. I have not done it myself.

The full link to my Mamiya C pages is http://grahamp.dotinthelandscape.org/mfaq/index.html
 

MattKing

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Thanks Graham, my longstanding, much used link to your Mamiya TLR pages had stopped working.
 
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Nokton48

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For TLR Mamiflex portraiture you have a full range of lenses available. Of course you need the 80mm, that came with my camera. But I was careful to pick up my most useful portrait lens with this camera, which is the 105mm. Just a bit longer slightly less foreshortening, very flattering yet still up close. I went for the black deluxe Blue Dot version this time, with the DOF scales and adjustable iris in the viewing lens. With just these two lenses I can do 100% of what I want to do with these two 1960s era cameras.

Really this is what I will use in the studio

In looking at color and black and white 16x20s and 20x24s (and thousands of proofs) I have NEVER seen any appreciable difference between the silver and black lenses. This go round I choose the more modern black lenses. At one time I had multiple copies of just about every lens they made from 65mm to 250mm.

I should get my C22 from Japan the middle of November.
 
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Nokton48

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WOW!

It will take me a while to look through your site. Wonderful. Thank You!
 
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Nokton48

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Mamiya C Series TLR Custom Light Seal Kit including C2 C22 C220 C3 C33 C330 Plus | eBayMamiya C Series TLR Custom Light Seal Kit including C2 C22 C220 C3 C33 C330 Plus | eBay

This is a shameless plug for a very good C33 restoration product. I bought three sets and installed them without any issues. Perfect and worth the money! All three of my backs (two 120 and the rare 220) now have nice fresh light seals.

Who out there CLA's the older C22 and C33 bodies? And the old silver lenses as well as the black? I prolly will need some donor parts

The good news is that both of my Mamy's are cleared to run a test B&W roll. Minor problems need to be worked out but I have two functioning cameras at this point. Happy-Happy.
 

grat

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Bill Rogers at mamiyarepair.com has a good selection of spare parts, and does repairs. He also pops up on here occasionally.
 
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Nokton48

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grat said:
Bill Rogers at mamiyarepair.com has a good selection of spare parts, and does repairs. He also pops up on here occasionally.
Click to expand...

Called them and they are booked up four months so oh well.

Took it to our local brick and mortar and they are working up an estimate.

The C22 has three fairly major problems so the seller refunded all my money including shipping and is letting me keep the camera. So this particular body might be worth fixing
 
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