Jobo/Tetenal C-41 Press Kit

jcc · Jan 16, 2014

So, I'm diving into developing my own color negatives by hand (a couple hours from now, actually!)...

After reading the instructions, I just want to double check something: the film's ISO doesn't matter with respect to development time? I can have Porta 400 and Ektachrome 100 in the same tank, and it's still the same amount of time?

I also heard that C-41 chemistry gets "seasoned" with whatever brand of film is more processed with it, e.g., Kodak turns out best when the chemistry has only/mostly been used on Kodak, and Fujifilm turns out best when the chemistry has only/mostly been used on Fujifilm, etc... (1) Is this true? (2) Do I have to process different manufacturers with separate chemicals, or can I just throw them all in, when I initially use the chemistry?

Any other tips on the matter are surely welcome too. Thanks in advance!

Jefferson

adelorenzo · Jan 16, 2014

Yes all C-41 films go for the same time/temp regardless of ISO. Unless you are trying to push/pull of course. Never heard anything about needing to use the same brands of film.

I just did my first-ever rolls a couple of weeks ago with a Tetenal and they turned out awesome. Be sure to let us know how it goes for you!

CatLABS · Jan 16, 2014

jcc said:
I also heard that C-41 chemistry gets "seasoned" with whatever brand of film is more processed with it, e.g., Kodak turns out best when the chemistry has only/mostly been used on Kodak, and Fujifilm turns out best when the chemistry has only/mostly been used on Fujifilm, etc...

Following the instructions on the chemistry is key (and true for most things in life)... In most cases the ISO affect on capacity will be stated in the instructions. Higher ISO=slightly lower capacity.

The above is just completely not true.

Where did you "hear" this?

alohakeith · Jan 16, 2014

jcc said:
I also heard that C-41 chemistry gets "seasoned" with whatever brand of film is more processed with it, e.g., Kodak turns out best when the chemistry has only/mostly been used on Kodak, and Fujifilm turns out best when the chemistry has only/mostly been used on Fujifilm, etc... (1) Is this true? (2) Do I have to process different manufacturers with separate chemicals, or can I just throw them all in, when I initially use the chemistry?

I've never heard of C-41 chemistry getting "seasoned". I've developed many different brands in the same tank without any problems. I've even cross-processed E-6 (slide) film with C-41 film at the same time.

John Meyer · Jan 16, 2014

Jcc, you can mix any type of film you want as long as its c41.Ektachrome is e6 process..The film ISO dosent matter.

ME Super · Jan 16, 2014

I wouldn't process the Ektachrome in C-41 chemistry (unless you intend to cross process it) as it's an E-6 process. And if you have a kit with blix, don't even THINK about cross processing Kodachrome. You'll end up with blank film!

jcc · Jan 16, 2014

Ektar, I meant Ektar! Lack of sleep is certainly taking its toll on me.

ME Super · Jan 17, 2014

Ektar is fine in C-41. It's a very nice film, as C-41 films go.

Terry Christian · Jan 17, 2014

The C-41 process was meant to be replenished in lab use, so it is indeed "seasoned" with the by-products of previous rolls in that scenario (although not brand-specific).
For the home hobbyist, that's why we use developer starter. You can do without it, but using starter helps to even out the developing reaction of the first few rolls. If your kit doesn't contain developer starter, don't sweat it.

akfotog · Jan 21, 2014

Glad to hear the good results. I just received my Jobo C-41 Press Kits today and will be developing this weekend in Jobo CPA 2/CPP2 processor. I've processed a lot of B&W, but have always been a bit intimidated at the thought of trying to process color. Need to learn though, since there is nowhere here in Alaska that processes 4x5 color films, plus I'd really rather do that process myself. I've shot a couple of 120 test rolls of Ektar to get a feel for it, wish me luck. Next, printing perhaps. Happy processing all.

Lamar · Jan 22, 2014

You'll love it once you start. I was intimidated the first time I tried color film. I started with E6 before I did C-41 so doing C-41 wasn't a big deal. For whatever reason the whole thought of maintaining temperature is a bit scary at first. But after you've done it a time or two it's just second nature like the B&W stuff. I don't even use my GE Roaster "Heated Bath" anymore unless I'm processing more than one tank. I just get two pots on the stove, one at about 160F for pre-heating the chems and the other at 105F for my working bath. The extra 3F is for losses due to the relativity shallow pan and tall bottles, only about half the bottle is below the waterline. I've watched temp and it stays right around 102F for the short time needed if I put them in at 102F. I can do a two reel (135) tank of C-41 in about 45 minutes this way, starting cold . Good luck and happy developing....

akfotog said:
Glad to hear the good results. I just received my Jobo C-41 Press Kits today and will be developing this weekend in Jobo CPA 2/CPP2 processor. I've processed a lot of B&W, but have always been a bit intimidated at the thought of trying to process color. Need to learn though, since there is nowhere here in Alaska that processes 4x5 color films, plus I'd really rather do that process myself. I've shot a couple of 120 test rolls of Ektar to get a feel for it, wish me luck. Next, printing perhaps. Happy processing all.

jcc · Jan 28, 2014

Although I ran out of hot water in the middle of the blix cycle, this is what came out in the end. Pretty stoked about it. I'll probably do E6 next!

jerrybro · Jan 28, 2014

Nice work!

MrRgoyer · Jan 28, 2014

Looks great!!

Sent from my GT-S7560M using Tapatalk

akfotog · Jan 28, 2014

1st C-41 Processing

My first processing went fairly well, with a few exceptions, the biggest being the fact that the top blew off of my jobo cannister (in CPE 2), when I went to the Blix. From what I've read you have to burp it several times, some kind of reaction to the agitation. Instead, I've refirbished a CPP2 that I'll be using just for color. Using the cog connection instead of a cap should allow the cannister to breath. Otherwise I love the process, wish I had done it earlier.

adelorenzo · Jan 28, 2014

Did you push middle of the the rubber cap in? That way when it pops out then know it's time to let some of the pressure out from the blix.

akfotog · Jan 28, 2014

Jobo Cap

adelorenzo said:
Did you push middle of the the rubber cap in? That way when it pops out then know it's time to let some of the pressure out from the blix.

No, didn't do that, but even when I burped it, it still popped nearly every 15-20 seconds. Instead, I'll develop using the CPP2 and cog system this weekend. Will use the CPE2 strictly for B&W.

jcc · Feb 6, 2014

I used a Paterson System 4 tank, and agitate by hand. I used two different tanks, which don't normally leak when processing B&W, and both tanks were spewing blix.

Jobo/Tetenal C-41 Press Kit

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