Jobo Lift repair

[Soeren]

One of the hooks holding the drums in place on my Jobo CPE2+ lift is broken and my attempt to swap it with one of the others failed. I removed the 4 screws holding the plate but it still sit tight as glued in place. Am I missing something here.
Best regards
Søren

 

[jp80874]

Soeren,

Go to the Large Format Forum and search or post this question. I believe the question has been answered before, but I am not sure where exactly. Post this question or ask Greg Blank by PM. He does the Jobo repair work for the US distributor and service center. I remember he has talked about this problem. He has been very generous with information in the past. He may be able to give you Jobo part numbers which you can purchase cheaper in the EU.

John Powers

 

[Soeren]

Thanks John Ill try that
best regards

 

[Bruce Osgood]

If this is one of the two clips that holds the tank in place, the same thing happened to me. I puzzled over it for a while and depend on the remaining hook to hold it by itself. Hasn't failed me yet.

 

[Soeren]

problem is it causes leaking
Best regards

 

[jp80874]

problem is it causes leaking
Best regards

Is it leaking when you lift the drum or leaking when the drum is spinning horizontally?

I ask because several people here simply don’t use the lift by choice or because it is broken. They turn off the rotation, disconnect the drum and dump the contents into the sink. I run my CPP-2 in an eight foot stainless sink with a drain into the house plumbing. I used to think this would wear out the switch, by that I mean 17 switchings on/off for each film development. Then my lift stopped working and it was the only alternative to an expensive lift repair. There have been no problems in the six months I have been doing it that way.

John

 

[Bruce Osgood]

I have not had a problem with leaking, either in Lift position or horizontal position.

Just a side thought; I don't mean to re-direct this thread but a tank should not leak in the horizontal position. Perhaps you are using too much solution for the tank size and it runs out the fill/drain hole when the tank is level. This would also introduce excessive weight to the lift.

 

[jp80874]

Just a side thought; I don't mean to re-direct this thread but a tank should not leak in the horizontal position. .

I was thinking the same thing. That is why I asked and suggested a work around if the leak was when lifting the tank.

John

 

[Soeren]

Im not sure. Bruce is right it shouldn't leak in horizontal position but fact is the waterbath startet smelling from chemistry that somehow leaked out. hmm thinking about it the drum is spinning when I fill the chems in so it could be then some of it leaks out. The drum makes a bending motion when changing direction so that may be the ansver. Ian C explained to me on a PM how to do the repair. Thank you Ian.
Best regards

 

[jp80874]

Ian C explained to me on a PM how to do the repair. Thank you Ian.
Best regards

I think it might be helpful for all of us to know how to do the repair if you or Ian don't mind telling us. One of us who was trying to help you may be the person in need tomorrow.

Thanks in advance,

John

 

[Ian C]

Replacing Drum Retaining Latches on the Jobo Lift Unit

1. Remove the 4 countersunk stainless steel screws from the plate that faces towards the right side.

2. Use a small flat-bladed screwdriver to remove the silicone rubber sealant from the center of the cog. It covers the stainless steel screw holding the small cog that drives the drum cog. Digging it out wrecks the silicone plug, so a new one must be made on reassembly.

3. Remove the screw and cog.

4. Remove 1 stainless steel cap screw (flat surface under head) from the side of the lift facing the operator and 2 screws of the same type from the back side. With the gear and screws removed you should be able to separate the center from the tilt unit and pull it just far enough forward (towards the right end of the machine) from the frame to install the new latch.

Reassemble in reverse order paying particular attention to the screw types. The 4 screws in the plate surrounding the drum attachments are countersunk (conical under the heads), while the front and back screws are all flat-bottomed cap screws. Be careful. You’re screwing into PLASTIC—soft and not very strong. Use just enough torque to snug the screws reasonably but don’t try to get them tighter than necessary.

After replacing the drive cog you should replace the silicone rubber sealant over the screw securing the cog. It’s the same sort of colorless material used to seal around the edges of bath tubs, showers, countertops, and so forth. It’s prudent to obtain a several replacement latches so you’ll have them on hand if needed.

I’ve found that a thin film of petrolatum does a great job of reducing friction between the latches and the rotating cog lids and keeps this interface from squealing. It also ensures smooth, quiet operation of the large drive gear where it mates with the smaller drive cog at the back side of the lift unit. A film of petrolatum is also good to lubricate the two metal tubes that the roller carriage slides on. This needs to be reapplied only once in a while.

If you use the correct volume of chemistry (maximum of 250ml for the 3063 20” x 24” drum) then the drum is almost certainly leaking between the lid and the drum. That means the lid isn’t correctly and firmly in place on the end of the tube to make a proper seal. This could also happen at the tube-to-tube joint on a two-piece drum like the 2850 drum for 16” x 20” prints.

It’s also possible that something could be damaged allowing the solution to leak, but this is very unlikely.

 

[Bruce Osgood]

Ian C.
Thank you very much for this information. I, for one will use it and keep it on file.

 

[Raphael]

It's epidemic !

Hi,

I just discovered yesterday one of my ATL-1 lift latch is broke ! Thanks to all for the informations. One more time, I see APUG forums are the place to go before taking my screwdriver out his toolbox.

Thanks again,

Regards,

Raphael

 

[jp80874]

Thank you Ian. As Jobo fades away, if it does, I think the only way we will keep developing is if people like you are generous with what they have learned. As Bruce did, I will store this away for when I need it. This feels a little F 451ish. I think I better go have morning coffee.

John

 

[Raphael]

Done !

Hello,

I just fixed mine yesterday, so, here are some pictures of work in progress, to illustrate and complete, if ever needed, Ian's excellent repair method.

For the #2 stage, a little difference, on my ATL-1, the little cog axle is fastened to the cog without stainless steel screw, but with a slot in the axle itself (I don't know of to describe it better in English) :

Stage #4, here is the view of partially removed center, lifted enough to remove and replace broken latch.

In my case, as I haven't any spare parts, I just replaced the broken latch with other from the second upper hose, (for the 3600 expert drum), as I don't use them for the moment. The plastic of mine is obviously begining to show its age, because I broke another latch trying to refasten the whole thing

Another advice, because I made the mistake : when reassembling, beware to check if the selector arm fork for hoses is well engaged in the the transversal axle.

BTW, anybody know where to get spare latches ?


Thanks again, Ian, for your useful recipe and infos

Regards,

Raphael

 

[Ian C]

Parts for the Jobo processors are available in the US from:

OmegaSatter
1041 S. Carroll Street
Hampstead, Maryland 21074

Telephone: (410) 374-3250
Fax: (410) 374-3184
Email: customerservice@omegasatter.com

The original white drum retainers are Jobo part # JP07083.

The newer black retainers are Jobo part # JP92157.

The white # JP07083 retainers are priced at $4.24 each. I don’t know the price of the black ones.

Omega-Satter has a minimum shipping charge of $15. With that in mind it may be better to lobby a dealer like B&H to acquire a stock of these from Omega-Satter that can be sold and shipped more reasonably in small quantities to individual Jobo owners.

 

[mhulsman]

But when you live in europe you go to: Dead Link Removed
I ordered parts and they were delivered within one week.
From Germany to the netherlands.
Good service and a lot of knowledge.

 

[MR CORONET]

JOBO thermistor Replacment for CPE2

Hi,
I have found that my CPE2 thermistor is broken and that i need a new one. Can anyone suggest a cheap alternative to purchase as a replacement?
I have been quoted £90 by a UK supplier (the other two suppliers do not stock JOBO parts anymore), and that was assuming they could get it and the price was about 2 years old!!
Gerry

But when you live in europe you go to: Dead Link Removed
I ordered parts and they were delivered within one week.
From Germany to the netherlands.
Good service and a lot of knowledge.

 

[Raphael]

The original white drum retainers are Jobo part # JP07083.

The newer black retainers are Jobo part # JP92157.

The white # JP07083 retainers are priced at $4.24 each. I don’t know the price of the black ones.

Thanks Ian, for that.
BTW, do you know the difference between the white and black retainers ? Are the newest more strong ?

Thanks Mike for the information. I remember too a Jobo part dealer in Luxembourg, but I can't find the link anymore.

Regards,

Raphael

 

[Ian C]

According to the representative at Omega-Satter the newer black retainers “screw in and have wire retainers.” In that case the two different retainer types cannot be interchanged because each version of the lift unit is compatible only with the retainer specifically designed for it.

I expect that the newer version of retainer is likely more durable, but I haven’t examined one and so I don’t know for certain.