Jobo DuoLab how to start?

[tengwei]

Dear All,

I just bought a new Jobo DuoLab.

The instruction said I should fill the heating storage tank with water, at least to the bottom edge of the funnel (where the range switch is). But the water never seems to reach the min, and leaking from the bottom of the processor while I'm filling the storage tank.

Where did I do wrong?

Turning on the temperature, seems like nothing is happening.

Help please?

-Teng Wei

 

[tengwei]

My problem solved. It was leaking on one of the tube below the heating storage tank. Have it replaced and it's working fine now.

Some calibration of temperature is required. Other than that it's all okay.

Thank you.

 

[dng88]

Got the same worry. The green plug or the tube which is not of the other 4 (deep tank got 4 marked 1-4 and similar length one is for the water jacket). Just for others reaching here, you need to fiil in that through the funnel and let the water out (to drive the air). Then plug the green plug and let the water overflow (via the side of the funnel). All would be set. At least for the water storage tank (about 180mm).

 

[Down Under]

What!?! You bought a NEW Jobo Duolab? When I bought my two (I always like to buy in pairs, just in case) in 2003-2004, the (then) Australian supplier told me Jobo had discontinued this model, as it had never been very popular. I have to say, my one (the second remains in absolutely pristine condition in its storage box, waiting for the first one to discumbooberate, which at the rate it is performing so stellarly, may well outlast me, never mind!) machine continues to work as new, and never ceases to amaze with the quality of B&W and C41 negatives I continue to get from it. The Duolab can also do E6 but because I am rather finicky about quality control issues, I prefer to let my local prolab do my Fujichrome for me. Anyway... if anyone out there is still using the Duolab, can we exchange user tips?

 

[Down Under]

A few tips for you. Calibration is super easy if you "bleed" the system first, ie fill it with (preferably distilled, but I use deionised) water with the small plug in the drainage tube pulled out, so the air can escape. Keep it under control with thumb and forefinger until all the air has been removed and it starts to drain out water, then recap. Bingo! You have it. Calibration can be adjusted by pulling off the temperature wheel (at the top) and adjusting the (if memory serves me right) small cross-shaped screw on the left side with a jeweller's screwdriver. To the left for minus temperature, to the right for plus. Go easy. Quarter turns. I keep a Kodak process thermometer in the water bath and check it regularly to see how my 25% turns affect the temperature either way. Easy as apple pie!

I currently have more than 40 B&W films to process for someone (mostly Fuji Acros, Kodak Plus X, and Ilford FP4 and HP5) and because of the conditions under which the films were exposed, am thinking of formulating my own Thornton two bath developer for this job. IF Vanbar ever produce the metol I need or agree to cut the Phenidone they package in 100 gram bottles (cost A$77.00) into smaller lots. Has anyone used this developer before, and if so, would you kindly care to share your experiences with it in the Duolab?

For the record, I consider the Duolab to be an absolute photo minimalist's dream. For me, 'tis the simpler the better. I still use Nikkormats and Rolleiflexes, long may they continue to click when I press the shutter buttons - or 120 film remains available. Amen!