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Jobo CPP3 drainage tap

cluttered

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I’ve got a Jobo CPP3 with lift. Even though I bought it a couple of years ago I still haven’t had much chance to use it until now, due to various “real life complications”.

One issue with it is that the drainage tap (bottom of the left-hand side) doesn’t fully close. Even if I close it very tightly, it still has a slow drip. The supplier of the machine posted me a replacement tap (which looks similar to http://www.catlabs.info/product/jobo-16067-drain-valve-faucet-tap-for-all-cpa2-cpp2-cpe2-processors), but I’m not sure how to fit it. I can see there’s a retaining nut involved, but I can’t see how to get to it.

Do I need to somehow disassemble the machine itself so that I can get to the retaining nut of the tap? If so, I’ve no idea how to go about this, advice would be appreciated.
 

mpirie

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If the CPP3 is anything like the CPA2, then replacing the tap will be a case of draining the unit, removing the (red on the CPA2) bottle rack then the control unit with heater.

Once you have removed all of these parts, you'll be left with a tub with the tap at one end. There's a big nut on the inside which is removed and the tap replaced.

As they say, re-assemble in the reverse order.

Mike
 
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cluttered

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Do you know if you also need to seperately remove the lift, or does that lift off as one unit with everything else? It took me ages to work out how to attach the lift in the first place, so I'm reluctant to remove it again if I can help it
 

ic-racer

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If it is like the CPP2, then there would be 4 thumb screws to remove that allow the electronics, pump and motor to come out. Be careful, the heater coil is attached to the bottom. When that is lifted out, the nut on the barrel tap can be accessed.

My barrel tap has always been hard to close completely since day one which was 18 year ago. I have considered replacing while new replacements are still available, but just give it an extra hard twist and that stops the leak through the tap.
 

mshchem

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You would think that they would have fixed that on the new machine. Notoriously hard to get tight enough to close. I replaced mine with a spring loaded quick open tap. Simple and foolproof.
 

AgX

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There should be a variety of taps being available from industrial suppliers, caravan/RV suppliers, maybe even DIY stores.
 

ic-racer

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The supplied Drum Tap in required in many situations because it has the hose connector opening. Otherwise when you drain the water jacket the water goes on the floor.
 

OrientPoint

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I've removed and replaced the one on my CPP-2 without totally disassembling the machine. For me all I needed to do was remove the red bottle rack. Once that's off I could get enough access to the fitting to remove and replace the nut with sufficient tightness. Mine was leaking from behind due to the gasket being rotten, so I replaced the gasket. While I was at it I put a small rubber stopper in the fitting's outlet, just to be safe. For a slow drip, just introducing a small stopper obtained from the hardware store might do the trick. Of course you have a new fitting, so go with that first
 
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