Jobo CPP-3 Unboxing & Installation Experience

This summer I finally decided to go ahead and order myself a Jobo CPP-3. After patiently waiting through 3 months backorder and slow shipping, it finally arrived a few days ago. Since there really aren't any unboxing videos of it out there, I decided to make one myself. I should also add that I'm in the US, and thus I bought my unit from CatLabs and it shipped with a US electrical plug.
(I actually ended up shooting the unboxing and setup, splitting it into two separate videos that are linked below.)

Unboxing:

Installation & Testing:

You could actually say that wanting a space to put this thing was a big part of my motivation to build a darkroom in the first place, so I see this machine as a major milestone in my photographic adventures.

I've also learned a few important things about the process, which I'd like to share below:

• The water overflow hose connection ships with a T-connector, which should probably be replaced with (or kludged into) an upward-facing elbow connector.
• The overflow/drain hoses should be 3/4" inside diameter, and probably need hose clamps to prevent any minor leaking (including the short length between the overflow connector and the T-joint that ships on it)
• The cold water inlet is a 3/4" BSPP thread connection, which isn't a thing in the US. You can connect a normal US garden hose to it, but it will leak. You need to buy a 3/4" BSPP (female) to NPT (male) adapter to make this work without leaks, and that adapter is probably something you'll need to special order. (Links included in the 2nd video's description.)
• When the heater is engaged, I measured just under 800W of power draw

These are AWESOME!

A few notes:

1. The overflow: The EU dictates that in electronic devices that include a water tank, the water level may not be beyond a certain distance from the mains power supply. This dimensional regulation has changed since Jobo last designed the CPP2, and so the overflow position has changed, to be lower in the trough, and thus limit the water level.
The T is in fact a breather, to allow water to evacuate faster. It is also part of the EU regulations - and must be kept clear on both ends to function as intended.
The downwards pointing portion of the T is to be connected to a hose as needed to redirect overflow water.
Adjusting the angle of the overflow elbow or blocking off the T, can result in higher than designed water lever in the trough, and or water entering the motor control housing - not a good thing.
As a result of this lower water level, the machine may need to be "filled" again, once the circulation pump has started running and carried some of the water from the lower trough to the upper "water jacket" tray.

2. The included spares are:
Spare set of running rollers with extension arms
Spare transfer gears
Transfer gear grease - transfer gears should be lubricated regularly, whenever they move freely without resistance in their shafts. Unlubricated gears wear out much faster.

3. The NPT adapter: we are happy to provide one free of charge to any customer, but if one is needed urgently, it can be found here for relatively small cost:
https://www.zoro.com/westward-hose-to-pipe-adapter-malefemale-4kg84/i/G2397516/
These are also commonly found at larger home depot stores and specialty plumbing supply houses.

4. Lift screw washers: Jobo has a specific guideline on how those are to be assembled, but alas, it is not critical, and as long as the screw is on securely, you are all set.


Enjoy!

I got mine from CatLABS last couple weeks too. I solved the hose connection by using 2 garden hose washers. I love this machine. It's amazing.

For my overflow drain I left the factory installation intact and attached a 3/4 in barbed elbow to the bottom of the T. My local hardware store sold me 1 foot of 3/4 inch ID PVC hose to get to my sink. I hooked mine up to a thermostatic mixing valve, if I'm doing color saves on preheat time. One thing I noticed, when using the cold water inlet for sub ambient processing I needed to reduce the flow rate from the cold water line. Otherwise when the Jobo inlet valve opened it would over cool the bath, this started a feedback issue where it would warm up then the valve would open cool down etc. Simply reducing the flow rate of the cold water stopped this.

I love my machine, if you ask nicely, Omer will send you stickers as well

CatLABS said:

1. The overflow: The EU dictates that in electronic devices that include a water tank, the water level may not be beyond a certain distance from the mains power supply. This dimensional regulation has changed since Jobo last designed the CPP2, and so the overflow position has changed, to be lower in the trough, and thus limit the water level.
The T is in fact a breather, to allow water to evacuate faster. It is also part of the EU regulations - and must be kept clear on both ends to function as intended.
The downwards pointing portion of the T is to be connected to a hose as needed to redirect overflow water.
Adjusting the angle of the overflow elbow or blocking off the T, can result in higher than designed water lever in the trough, and or water entering the motor control housing - not a good thing.
As a result of this lower water level, the machine may need to be "filled" again, once the circulation pump has started running and carried some of the water from the lower trough to the upper "water jacket" tray.

Click to expand...

Thanks for this additional explanation. I've been perpetually confused by this part of the machine, so I'll treat this as the final word. This explanation should really be included with the machine (and/or on a product web page). I'll also update the video description to include it.

CatLABS said:

2. The included spares are:
Spare set of running rollers with extension arms
Spare transfer gears
Transfer gear grease - transfer gears should be lubricated regularly, whenever they move freely without resistance in their shafts. Unlubricated gears wear out much faster.

Click to expand...

Makes sense.

CatLABS said:

3. The NPT adapter: we are happy to provide one free of charge to any customer, but if one is needed urgently, it can be found here for relatively small cost:
https://www.zoro.com/westward-hose-to-pipe-adapter-malefemale-4kg84/i/G2397516/
These are also commonly found at larger home depot stores and specialty plumbing supply houses.

Click to expand...

If the machine isn't shipping to US customers with this adapter, then information about the adapter really needs to be included with the machine and/or on the product website. Its totally unobvious and not well discussed online. I'll also add this link to the video description.

CatLABS said:

4. Lift screw washers: Jobo has a specific guideline on how those are to be assembled, but alas, it is not critical, and as long as the screw is on securely, you are all set.

Click to expand...

What exactly is their guideline? From what I guessed, the washers go between the lift and the body of the Jobo. But I could be wrong.

Thanks for the quick feedback, and glad I didn't screw up too badly!

"3. The NPT adapter: we are happy to provide one free of charge to any customer, but if one is needed urgently, it can be found here for relatively small cost:
https://www.zoro.com/westward-hose-to-pipe-adapter-malefemale-4kg84/i/G2397516/
These are also commonly found at larger home depot stores and specialty plumbing supply houses."

I would suggest that Jobo ship the adapter fitting when sending it to the US so no customer has to fiddle around to get it right. If the voltage/HZ is adjusted for the US then should any other misfit too.

stuartkinkade said:

"3. The NPT adapter: we are happy to provide one free of charge to any customer, but if one is needed urgently, it can be found here for relatively small cost:
https://www.zoro.com/westward-hose-to-pipe-adapter-malefemale-4kg84/i/G2397516/
These are also commonly found at larger home depot stores and specialty plumbing supply houses."

I would suggest that Jobo ship the adapter fitting when sending it to the US so no customer has to fiddle around to get it right. If the voltage/HZ is adjusted for the US then should any other misfit too.

Click to expand...

The washing machine hose that I used is a female garden hose thread. I simply installed mine with 2 of the rubber washers used on garden hoses this allows the brass hose fitting to compress the washers, no leaks. The adapter that Catlabs is referring to isn't British, it's NPT (standard US 3/4 inch national pipe tapered treads) this would make the valve 3/4 " NPT (I assume) which requires a 3/4 inch FNPT to MGH tread or you could call a plumber who would install it with hard lines.
It is confusing, this is not my first Jobo, I have never hooked up the cold water valve before.
Anyway, my two washers solved my dilemma, my one washer leaked just like the OP.
I really like the power of this machine, I haven't quite mastered the Auto process timer programs, probably won't use these anyway.
I developed Fujichrome the other day, temperature was dead on, 38°C, didn't vary by more than 0.1°C. Holds 20°C perfectly too.

In case anyone is wondering, this is the latest iteration of how I'm hoping to have that confusing overflow spigot connected:



All those pipe clamps are to hopefully prevent any minor leaks around these connections.
The "stovepipe" tube on top is so this thing won't leak all over the place if the overflow water merely splashes around a bit inside the T connector, and so that I actually notice if it does back up. I really don't want water spilling out onto or behind this table.

dkonigs said:

In case anyone is wondering, this is the latest iteration of how I'm hoping to have that confusing overflow spigot connected:

All those pipe clamps are to hopefully prevent any minor leaks around these connections.
The "stovepipe" tube on top is so this thing won't leak all over the place if the overflow water merely splashes around a bit inside the T connector, and so that I actually notice if it does back up. I really don't want water spilling out onto or behind this table.

Click to expand...

That's defeating the intent. If your drain hose would be restricted /crimped etc you can flood the motor and electronics enclosure and ruin the machine. Call Omer at Catlabs if you don't believe me. Make sure you are using a GFCI circuit as well. If you are on a standard 15 or 20 amp circuit without ground fault protection you could fry the machine. The older machines allowed for higher water levels. The 3/4 PVC tubing kinks easily as you have noted.

mshchem said:

That's defeating the intent. If your drain hose would be restricted /crimped etc you can flood the motor and electronics enclosure and ruin the machine. Call Omer at Catlabs if you don't believe me. Make sure you are using a GFCI circuit as well. If you are on a standard 15 or 20 amp circuit without ground fault protection you could fry the machine. The older machines allowed for higher water levels. The 3/4 PVC tubing kinks easily as you have noted.

Click to expand...

This particular tubing is actually extremely stiff, and is not kinked at the bottom. Also, everything in this room is on a GFCI circuit.

dkonigs said:

This particular tubing is actually extremely stiff, and is not kinked at the bottom. Also, everything in this room is on a GFCI circuit.

Click to expand...

You still have created a standpipe. There's no reason to have that extra tubing. You are violating the instructions. MHOFWIW.
Regards, Mike

As long as the drain hose isn't blocked, then I've just extended the drain vent a little bit. In the short term, as long as I pay attention, I should be fine.

However, I'm going to solve this issue once and for all by putting a drain pan underneath the Jobo. That'll make me less worried about splashing/leaking from leaving the top of the T completely open and unattached, and I should be able to make everyone happy.

dkonigs said:

As long as the drain hose isn't blocked, then I've just extended the drain vent a little bit. In the short term, as long as I pay attention, I should be fine.

However, I'm going to solve this issue once and for all by putting a drain pan underneath the Jobo. That'll make me less worried about splashing/leaking from leaving the top of the T completely open and unattached, and I should be able to make everyone happy.

Click to expand...

Sounds like you have a good plan. I have extra sink space so I always have mine in or over a sink. The instructions definitely need some work. Jobo makes great stuff but I think everyone is doing several jobs. I enjoyed watching your videos.
Best Regards Mike

Man, I'm so jealous. I've got an 8x10 expert drum that is waiting for a CPP3 but I'm saving up. Looks like quite an impressive film processor.

NortheastPhotographic said:

Man, I'm so jealous. I've got an 8x10 expert drum that is waiting for a CPP3 but I'm saving up. Looks like quite an impressive film processor.

Click to expand...

These machines really are worth the cost. The older machines are getting so old, I have a CPP2 it still works, but it's at least 20 years old, was used and abused by the person before me, part availability etc. I bought this unit in part, to insure I will have a viable machine. This is a low volume niche product, it's a bit like ordering a special production vehicle. Fun.

Thanks for your thread, great purchase. If it is like the older CPP2 then it should last years. I got my CPP2 19 year ago and it still runs and looks like new. One thing I do after it drains is to tip it up the other way and use a turkey baster to remove the last water from the bottom. This way it has been kept like new on the inside too.

ic-racer said:

One thing I do after it drains is to tip it up the other way and use a turkey baster to remove the last water from the bottom.

Click to expand...

That sounds like a good idea, since there's still at least 1/2" of water in there after I completely drain the unit (including tilting it significantly) out the drain port. However, it makes me wonder if there's a slightly less tedious way to pump that last bit out.

Okay, I just did another wet "dry run" with the overflow connection connected "mostly correctly." The results were interesting... The bottle area of the machine doesn't seem to automatically fill so well anymore, and if I manually fill it then the water level never gets above the 600-700mL mark on the bottles (and much lower on the graduates).
Also, its a bit fiddly and unclear exactly what triggers the stop/start of the rotation motor during the process (and whether I press "Start" once or twice at various stages). But I'll figure that out eventually.
Tomorrow, I hope to finally process some actual film on the machine.

ic-racer said:

One thing I do after it drains is to tip it up the other way and use a turkey baster to remove the last water from the bottom.

Click to expand...

Had to look up that term, never saw such device before....

dkonigs said:

Okay, I just did another wet "dry run" with the overflow connection connected "mostly correctly." The results were interesting... The bottle area of the machine doesn't seem to automatically fill so well anymore, and if I manually fill it then the water level never gets above the 600-700mL mark on the bottles (and much lower on the graduates).
Also, its a bit fiddly and unclear exactly what triggers the stop/start of the rotation motor during the process (and whether I press "Start" once or twice at various stages). But I'll figure that out eventually.
Tomorrow, I hope to finally process some actual film on the machine.

Click to expand...

I've noticed the same thing. The water level in the lower level of the new CPP3 processor is significantly lower than the older CPP2. I think the safety regulations required this change. I processed some Fujichrome last night. The plastic graduates don't have enough immersion to stay at 38°C. I decided to pour directly from the 1 liter bottle. I have a TBE tempering box that hold 6 of the graduates, if I want to go that route. I made notes and stuck to my machine to be able to remember what the darn buttons do.
It's a beastie of a machine. This is my Lab Cat Gus, Catlabs Midwestern chief of marketing

AgX said:

Had to look up that term, never saw such device before....

Click to expand...

Pictured Foley turkey baster, originally the pipette part was made of Pyrex glass, with a rubber bulb. American product, now extinct, except for low cost country copies. I'm sure these were made under many different names and countries in the world.

Just was sent this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4027809

NortheastPhotographic said:

Just was sent this: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4027809

Click to expand...

Shh... that might make some people on these forums mad. It does something that no one will admit, in writing, should ever be done. Probably for understandable regulatory/legal/CYA reasons.

I might as well share some measurements I took before designing it, though... The overflow port keeps the water level inside the CPP-3 at around 12-13cm. The max water level inside the tank, before there's any risk of it actually touching the upper housings, is closer to 20-21cm. This thing attempts to bring the level up to around 17-18cm, and closer to where all the CPP-2 docs say the water level should be at. (The CPP-2 appears to be nearly identically, dimensionally speaking, except with a significantly higher overflow port placement.)

dkonigs said:

Shh... that might make some people on these forums mad. It does something that no one will admit, in writing, should ever be done. Probably for understandable regulatory/legal/CYA reasons.

I might as well share some measurements I took before designing it, though... The overflow port keeps the water level inside the CPP-3 at around 12-13cm. The max water level inside the tank, before there's any risk of it actually touching the upper housings, is closer to 20-21cm. This thing attempts to bring the level up to around 17-18cm, and closer to where all the CPP-2 docs say the water level should be at. (The CPP-2 appears to be nearly identically, dimensionally speaking, except with a significantly higher overflow port placement.)

Click to expand...

If I do a manual fill will this begin to drain the water before it can get too high? And also should the machine be circulating while I am filling?

Just ordered the part from one of Thingverse's app partners.

NortheastPhotographic said:

If I do a manual fill will this begin to drain the water before it can get too high? And also should the machine be circulating while I am filling?

Just ordered the part from one of Thingverse's app partners.

Click to expand...

Without this part, the machine will begin to drain when the water level is around the 600ml mark on the bottles. With this part, you'll be able to get to the 900ml mark (or maybe even close to the neck depending on how things are aligned). If you fill the machine until the overflow point, then start it circulating, it'll take another 6-7L of water to get it topped off. So you either have to re-fill it once it starts circulating, or manually fill the upper trough before you start it circulating.