Well, bad news.
I've discovered that my CPE-2 is one of the early models and -- as bdial and AgX have pointed out -- has one of the early spindles. My new lift assembly from B&H has only the gear for the later spindle -- not the early spindle.
I contacted Jobo yesterday and they indicated that OmegaSatter is now the distributor for all (remaining?) Jobo darkroom items. Anyway, OmegaSatter does not have the piece I need. There was a sheet at the bottom of my lift box (which I didn't notice) indicating that I needed to obtain a special part from my Jobo dealer if the gear doesn't fit on the spindle. Obviously, this is no longer possible.
So I went ahead and ordered a used CPE2+. I'm assuming the plus version will have the proper spindle and my lift should be okay. The plus version also has (I'm told) a better motor assembly than the non-plus version, a better thermostat, and an electrical reversal mechanism instead of the mechanical reversal. (Which was another one of my concerns -- since it looked like the black lift gear had no way of hitting the reversal switch like the magnet part did.)
Last night I did some B&W experiments in the CPE2 (as I wait for the newer version) -- and I'm pretty impressed at how well the CPE2 holds the temperature. I'm not sure how old my particular unit is, but it seems to work great. If the lift would fit, I'd be thrilled.
I am irked that Jobo didn't include all the necessary hardware for all CPE2/CPE2+ models in the lift package. Maybe the CPE2 (non-plus) was such a limited run that they figured they could save a bit of money. Anyway, now I'll (soon) have a CPE2 w/magnet and a CPE2+ with (I hope) a lift. (I'm also told that the CPE2 and CPE2+ internals are vastly different, so using one as a "spare parts" box won't necessarily work.)
It dawned on me, though, as I was reading the Arista C-41 instructions -- and working through the process in my head before actually trying it for the first time in the Jobo -- that I don't really need the lift. It's nice, and I can see how it can help move the chemicals in and out, but the old-school "hand pour" will surely work as long as I time the pours and account for the time in the overall phases. (I'm doing C-41 and E-6 for the first time, so despite my reading and re-reading all the info on the web and in forums, I'm still figuring out a plan of attack.)