JOBO CPE-2 water leak

Joao Gomes · Jun 3, 2020

Hello

Does anyone knows from which kind of plastic JOBO processor CPE 2 is made?

I found a small leak and I need to know how to seal it.

I got a UHU special glue but saw it is not recommended to use with PE, PP and PTFE plastics.

Many thanks
Joao

Bellos the place where a detected the leak

Mick Fagan · Jun 3, 2020

I have repaired a Jobo processor tank with a similar leak using araldite, which is a two part epoxy resin. Worked wonderfully for the next 15 years before the unit itself died.

Mick.

mshchem · Jun 3, 2020

ABS. I agree with Mick a good epoxy would be a good approach. Henkel sells Loctite brand epoxies.

AgX · Jun 3, 2020

Joao Gomes said:
Hello

Does anyone knows from which kind of plastic JOBO processor CPE 2 is made?
I got a UHU special glue but saw it is not recommended to use with PE, PP and PTFE plastics.

No reason to be anxious, the corpus is for shure not from these (ungluable) plastics.

It likely is from ABS. (It could be from PS or hard-PVC too, but ABS is most likely.)
You can glue it either with a cement containg the apt solvent, or without solvent as with curing 2-component epoxy cement.

A crack that is typically not mechanically loaded could also just be sealed with common kind of sealing putty.

Another way even would be bracing a crack with metal sheets and rubber sheet inbetween and riveting that all.

Martin Rickards · Jun 4, 2020

Cracked plastic sounds very much more like styrene/ABC resins than polyolefines or PTFE. I'd use the small tubes of polystyrene cement as used in model plastic kits, which is basically polystyrene dissolved in a suitable solvent.

AgX · Jun 4, 2020

Martin Rickards said:
I'd use the small tubes of polystyrene cement as used in model plastic kits, which is basically polystyrene dissolved in a suitable solvent.

Such cement would not work for ABS. Such would need a dedicated cement or a "universal hard-plastic cement".

In any case a testing at the inside would show whether a solvent cement works: the stronger the dissolving of the surface, the better.

But just cementing a crack would not be be a good idea, unless there is no mechanical strain on the crack. Otherwise a bracing at the crack has to be done, either by means of cementing or by riveting.

Rick A · Jun 4, 2020

https://www.flexsealproducts.com/shop/

Joao Gomes · Jun 4, 2020

Hello guys!
Thanks for your help.
Guess i'm gonna use that UHU Poly Max Crystal i talked about.

https://www.uhu.com/en/product-page.4370

Light Capture · Jun 4, 2020

I'll second what Mick Fagan suggested in post #2.

Epoxy with fiberglass reinforcement is a good option as well.
Worked fine on my processor. Fiberglass will provide some structural strength.
1 or 2 layers of fiberglass should be enough. Small pieces of fiberglass can be found in paint or auto parts stores.
Area should be de-greased, sanded and cleaned from dust.
The same patch could be applied on both sides if needed/preferred.

Joao Gomes · Jun 4, 2020

Well, just applied the UHU Poly Max.
Seems it gonna work.
Once it can be used underwater I plan to use it to glue the pieces that old the thermic resistance and avoid it to touch the plastic!

tiny pic

Martin Rickards · Jun 4, 2020

Light Capture said:
I'll second what Mick Fagan suggested in post #2.

Epoxy with fiberglass reinforcement is a good option as well.
Worked fine on my processor. Fiberglass will provide some structural strength.
1 or 2 layers of fiberglass should be enough. Small pieces of fiberglass can be found in paint or auto parts stores.
Area should be de-greased, sanded and cleaned from dust.
The same patch could be applied on both sides if needed/preferred.

Careful, many of the fibreglass kits sold in car part stores use polyester resin and not epoxy. Polyester resin is a solvent for ABS.

Joao Gomes · Jun 4, 2020

BTW, in order to glue the stone pieces which avoid the thermic resistance to touch the plastic, how to remove the control unit? There are 6 screws in the upper side but it seems to be connected to the water tank by 3 plastics pieces...

Do I need to open it? I can I see a way to detach it without broke anything... :/

Light Capture · Jun 4, 2020

Martin Rickards said:
Careful, many of the fibreglass kits sold in car part stores use polyester resin and not epoxy. Polyester resin is a solvent for ABS.

I'm not sure about polyester resins. Never used them.
Paint and car parts stores around here in Canada sell 3M's small pack of fiberglass and it's handy if you need a small quantity quickly. 3M resins that go with it aren't really usable for general use and I just buy any available epoxy.
Epoxy is safe and it will bond mechanically to ABS. When epoxy is cured it can only bind mechanically to itself. When it's still in gelled state it will bond chemically.

Joao Gomes · Jun 4, 2020

Thank you guys for all your input.
Hope someone else could use all that info too.
I'm new here and I need to admit that amazing how people is participative!
Nice to see it!!

Joao Gomes · Jun 4, 2020

Just one last silly question... Maybe should I start a new thread...
Anyway..
JOBO has 2 type of bottles. The "white" and the black ones. Which chemistry should be stored in each one?

Thanks
Joao

Light Capture · Jun 4, 2020

Joao Gomes said:
BTW, in order to glue the stone pieces which avoid the thermic resistance to touch the, how to remove the control unit? There are 6 screws in the upper side but it seems to be connected to the water tank by 3 plastics pieces...

Do I need to open it? I can I see a way to detach it without broke anything... :/

The top cover where the knobs are needs to be removed. These center pins can be pushed out from inside.

Picture shows what they look like when removed.

ralphduke · Jun 5, 2020

I used Flex seal on mine, worked like a champ!!
bought it at Home Depot

Joao Gomes · Jun 5, 2020

Done! Sealed with UHU Poly Max. Yeah!! I also glued the "stone" pieces that hold the thermic resistance and avoid it to touch the plastic. It works great here too.
Many thanks to help!
Regards
Joao

bdial · Jun 6, 2020

Joao Gomes said:
Just one last silly question... Maybe should I start a new thread...
Anyway..
JOBO has 2 type of bottles. The "white" and the black ones. Which chemistry should be stored in each one?

Thanks
Joao

In theory, the black bottles would be good for chemistry that could be degraded by light. But the reality is that hardly anything needs protection from light. So it does not really matter, though best practice is to not reuse bottles for different sorts of chemistry. For example don’t reuse a bottle that has stored fixer for developers.

With my Jobo bottles, I tend to use the white ones for fix, and the black ones for developers. My logic behind it is that fix clears the film and developers make it dark.
YMMV

JOBO CPE-2 water leak

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