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Jobo ATL 1000 doesn’t heat

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fujista

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Hi, I’ve got a Jobo ATL 1000. Yesterday I developed my colors films and when I finished and I started the process again with more, my Jobo stopped heat chemicals, so it never could start! If I use chemicals at 38º it neither starts.

I found a post which said that I have to push a buttom and the termostate will reniciate, but I did that and nothing change! I show yo a picture of the buttom.

Any help? I feel really bad :sad:

Thanks!
 

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mpirie

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Does the reset button move in when you press it?

I don't have an ATL1000, but cutout buttons are usually spring-loaded, so there should be some movement.

If not, then the button could be corroded and stuck in the out or open-circuit position, in which case it will need cleaned before you proceed.

Mike
 
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fujista

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Does the reset button move in when you press it?

I don't have an ATL1000, but cutout buttons are usually spring-loaded, so there should be some movement.

If not, then the button could be corroded and stuck in the out or open-circuit position, in which case it will need cleaned before you proceed.

Mike

Yes, it moves and there isn’t any problem with it!

Ah, the Jobo works very well with the cleaning process and black and white, but not with C41 and E6. It doesn’t start even you use the chemicals at 38º/39º.
 
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fujista

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On this background of yours below and with what you said above, why do you assume the thermostat to be the culprit?

https://www.photrio.com/forum/threads/problem-with-jobo-atl-1000-programs.168564/#post-2197469

I didn’t change the eprom! I’m using C41 program as it came from fabric. This is the first time I open the Jobo.

I think is the thermostat because the black and white process and cleaning work very well and without any problem. The problem is C41 and E6. The Jobo doesn’t heat the chemicals (bottle 1) and if I use chemicals at 38º, neither starts.

Probably the error is from the thermostat or ever the sensor, so the Jobo doesn’t know if the chemicals are heat or cold. But I don’t know how I could fix this.

I’ve been developing C41 and E6 without a problem since I posted that message!
 

AgX

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If you are safe with electrics, de-wire the thermostat and test it for its switching state/temperature. You might even take it out for testing.
A thermostat is the sensor the same time. Maybe though it got a remote sensor, but that would be integral part of the unit. (Generally speaking. I do not know at the moment how your processor is designed. A thermostat typically has a rather wide switching lag.)
 

mpirie

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If you're comfortable with electrics, then you could test the heating element for continuity.

Isolate the heating element, put your ohmeter on low ohms and test for resistance. If there is resistance, then the element should be okay. If there's no continuity, then the element is open circuit and needs to be replaced.

Mike
 
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fujista

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If you're comfortable with electrics, then you could test the heating element for continuity.

Isolate the heating element, put your ohmeter on low ohms and test for resistance. If there is resistance, then the element should be okay. If there's no continuity, then the element is open circuit and needs to be replaced.

Mike

Yes! The resistance is ok, it’s 63 ohms. So, there’s continuity. What would be problem then? Or where should I look?
 

AgX

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The thermostat might continously be in the off-state. Or the heater not even switched on by the program control.

Once the thermostat is checked the next level would be checking the thing "life", that is what voltages are at what devices and when.
 

mohmad khatab

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However, the current situation is that we are in front of the JOBO machine, and this machine needs bleach, the rest of the other original acids are available, but only the bleach is the only solution not available.
I have copper bleach and I have potassium freecyanide. I can also provide Quinon
However, not all of these bleaches can work on the machine (JOBO) - I think, because the machine is programmed to stop the reaction step, and at the same time the stop bath is necessary in all types of bleaches you mentioned.
* I do not have any type of EDTA
* What is the solution to that dilemma.
 

Fred of Wisconsin

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Hello Fujista.. I looked at the two images you posted regarding your heating issue. I am not familiar with the ATL1000 but I am familiar with the ATL 2/2+/3 and the 3000 processors and in your photo of the silver device you are referring to as the thermostat that device is a mechanical safety thermal cutoff switch in-case your heating element runs uncontrolled and overheats and it is intended to prevent a meltdown or fire. The device you need to locate is an electrical thermal couple usually plugged into the control board. I have had to repair several thermal couples and on more than one occasion I needed to replace the TRIAC and the 0 voltage switching IC which controls the power to the heating elements on the power supply boards of the ATL's I have repaired. I hope my 2 cents is of any value and helps.
Stay safe and healthy.
 
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