I'm more confused now. I am seeing tanks labeled poilot on the bay. Are they knock offs and are they any good?
Hello, my name is Mark and my sheet film developing technique sucks. Back in the days before my crippling depression I used a unicolor drum and just rolled it back and forth on a couple of 2x4s for 8x10 and 5x7. It always leaked and since I use pyro-cat, leaking can be a health hazard. I don't want a unicolor drum again for this reason and I'm willing to pay for a jobo tank, just not those crazy priced (but apparently amazingly good) 3005 expert drums. What I am wondering is, on the 3063 and similar tanks is there an insert that needs to be bought as well that holds the film or does the film just sit up against the walls? If this is the case how do the films not overlap as they are rolled? I am looking to do more than one 8x10 at a time, otherwise that SP-8x10 that is at the top of the page here looks like a good Idea.
I was also never successful with DIY tubes due to scratches and uneven development. Once again most likely my fault. I don't want to go this route either.
Aside from the 3063 and ignoring the 3005, what are my jobo options for 8x10 and 5x7 sheet film?
I've used a 3063 for sheet film. Others may have better experiences with using it for ULF film (I shoot 14x17, so I'm only doing one sheet at a time in it), but there are ribs on the inside of the drum that will hold your paper/film up off the inner surface of the drum. I found in my experience that I got uneven development where the ribs were. You could use one of the smaller 2500 series paper drums to do one sheet of 8x10 at a time - there may be ribs on the inside of the print drums at that size, or maybe not, I'm not sure. Those crazy-expensive Expert-series drums are, IMHO, worth it, because I NEVER have a problem with development that I can attribute to the drum - no scratches, no unevenness, no developer surge, nothing. With any of them, regardless of size, you must absolutely get them completely dry between batches. Use the Jobo sponge and some paper towels to get them surface dry, then take a hair dryer with cold air setting (or some canned compressed air or use an air compressor) and blow out each tube to get any lint from the paper towels off the surface of the drum.
Get the Jobo roller base for the drums so you can put the tube in a tray with circulating water to temper the drum for consistent processing temperatures. Those expert drums have tiny slots at the bottom to allow water to circulate around the tubes inside the drum to keep the chemistry to a constant temperature during the processing cycle.
Years ago I stopped drying Expert drums between batches of film. Now I load the tubes wet. I fill the number of tubes I need with tempered water, then insert the film, dump the water, put on the lid, and process normally. Give it a try; saves a lot of time.
Years ago I stopped drying Expert drums between batches of film. Now I load the tubes wet. I fill the number of tubes I need with tempered water, then insert the film, dump the water, put on the lid, and process normally. Give it a try; saves a lot of time.
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