JandC Classic Paper

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Flotsam

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I'm about at the bottom of my last box of Polymax and looking find a new paper to get used to. I'm thinking of trying a box of The cold-tone multi-grade paper that JandC labels. Has anyone tried this? Can you give me a head's up of what to expect after using Polymax for so long? I'd like to try the Paper developer that they sell too. My other option is to throw my support to Ilford, (which I'll probably buy from JandC if (when?) they start carrying it)
 

Paul Howell

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Last winter I used a couple of packets of 12X16 and printed 35 and 4X5, I used dektol with very good results, but I like Adox better and once the day time tempt drop below 100 I plan on ordering Adox 12X16. I will miss polymax, but I can live either J&C or Adox.
 
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Flotsam

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Thanks for that, Paul. Adox would have been another choice from JandC. Perhaps I should give that a try. Can you suggest why you prefer the Adox?
 

doughowk

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Looks like J&C Classic includes at least 4 different papers. I've used the Museum graded which, as has been said elsewhere, is Forte Fortezo. Very nice slightly warm tone in Agfa Neutol WA & very good paper for Lith. Just got the Polywarmtone (Forte Polywarmtone)& will try it also in Lith.
 

Scott Edwards

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Their neutral multi-contrast paper is Polygrade V, and this paper is also quite nice. It can give you very cold images or slightly warm images, depending upon developer and toning time. I like to use Agfa Neutol WA with this paper and tone 1+20 for about 7-8 minutes in selenium which gives it a nice dark chocolate look. The white areas are quite brilliant and the blacks are deep.
 

Jim Chinn

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If the multi-grade is indeed re-packaged polygrade 5 I agree with the previous poster about using Agfa Neutol and a selenium. The great thing about Polygrade 5 or its repackaged equivalent is the versatility in Selenium. I keep very good neutral qualities with just a couple minutes in 1-20 selenium. On the other hand, with dektol and either stronger selenium dillution or longer toning in weaker dillution you can get a very warm result.

I believe that it also split tones well in bleach and selenium or sepia and selenium.
 

Paul Howell

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Flotsam said:
. Can you suggest why you prefer the Adox?

I like a cold semi gloss paper, but I do ferrotype some prints for high gloss and Adox glossed well. Adox has deep black and handled highlights well, I have not toned Adox yet. The price seems attractive. Just my personal tast.
 

dphphoto

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Hi: I'd second anyone's positive opinion on Adox. I even started a thread on it under contact printing. It tones very well, and very neutrally, has a long tonal scale and reacts well to the harder filters. With Adox I can make contact prints from 8X10 negs that rival the Azo prints I made years ago from the same negs. I get very strong blacks (best I've ever seen from a VC paper) with nicely detailed highlights, using Ethol LPD 1:2. The 12X16 size is a little weird, but so what?
Haven't tried the JandC Classic paper yet, but maybe I should. Dean
 
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Flotsam

Flotsam

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dphphoto said:
Hi: I'd second anyone's positive opinion on Adox. I even started a thread on it under contact printing.
But it is an enlarging paper isn't it? Is it unusually slow?
 

Paul Howell

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I use Zonal Pro and dektol, others have commented that Adox seems to have Dupont quaility, I need to find some old boxes of unmounted prints to look for Dupont from the 70 so I can really compare.
 

Curt

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What about Oriental?
Have you used the Adox paper with a Thomas safelight and what filters do you use in the Thomas with the Adox paper?
What are the approximate times for contact printing?
thanks,
Curt
 

Paul Howell

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I use a red Kodak safelight, the amber did produce some fog. I use my old Dupont filters, I also have Kodak and Ilford filters, but the Dupont set seems to work well so I haven't used any other. I don't contact print so I don't know what a good starting point would be.
 

eric

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Flotsam said:
But it is an enlarging paper isn't it? Is it unusually slow?
That's what I thought too but in my lame research on the web, I read somewhere that it is good for contact printing cause it is awefully slow. I'm looking for contact printing some Polaroid Pack film 665 stuff and I don't want to go the Azo route. I'm going to look into this paper as well but I *think* I need a different colored safelight.
 

Curt

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Eric, how much Polaroid are you going to print?
 

eric

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Curt said:
Eric, how much Polaroid are you going to print?
I guess not that much considering how 'spensive 665 is these days. I would just like to be able to have a long (longish) exposure time. I was also thinking of using regular enlarging paper and getting a Neutral Density filter for the lens. What you think? Will that work?
 
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