J&C Sheet Film Developing Tube

MikeK · Jan 30, 2005

Just finished processing my first batch of 8x10 film using the J&C developing tubes.

The loading of the tubes with film and solutions was a breeze. I had filled a 16x20 paper tray with water and rolled the tubes with a random back and forth action. Working with more than one tube was a little more challenging than I thought but after a while got the hang of it. I don not think I would be able to keep more than three tubes in motion at any one time.

The cap holds around 500 ml of solution. This is plenty for developing the film but a little too much solution so as to maintain balance while processing. The cap is heavier and can ride lower in the water, and I was afraid I would get uneven development. The next time through I reduced the solution to 420ml and the tube was better balanced.

I developed six sheets of FOP4 souped in ID11 1+1 for 7 minutes. Really nice negatives. Over the next couple of days I think I will try souping some film in Rodinal 1:100 but have the tube upright so will be more like stand development.

So all in all a great product at a really great price.

Mike

mikepry · Jan 30, 2005

Mike,
I'm so pleased you like these tubes! I find that all I really need is 250-300ml of chemistry for even development. I think you're using allot more than you really need to. Good Luck.

photomc · Jan 30, 2005

Mike, I also did this two weekends ago and then this weekend. Using 5x7 negatives, one word of caution, when I tried two weekends ago, used Rodinal 1+100, filled the tube to the top (about 1300 ml) and sat the tube on end for stand development. Problem that I had was the film moved to the top of the cap, out of the soup or partially out and end up with a nice bubble pattern where the film slipped out of the developer. This weekend I used 1000 ml, left the tube on it's side and used the notched pattern on the side of the tube to keep up with where the film should be. Rolled it in a tray of water and left it on it's side. Worked great...though that is a lot of developer for one little 5x7 neg.

Please post your results, interested in hearing how it worked out for you.

John McCallum · Jan 30, 2005

How did you find the density of your negs Mike? and do you think there will be proper contrast control through developing?

I'm wondering if the necessity for constant aggitation prevents the necessary 'still' periods for N++ control.

photomc · Jan 30, 2005

man, I thought only guys named Mike were posting to this one....Thanks John...

Jorge · Jan 30, 2005

Couple of suggestions. You can roll 4 tubes at the same time if you alternate the cap end and roll two with each hand.
Also you know how they have a small hanging loop at the top of the cap? well I drilled holes 5 in apart on a piece of wood that I put in the sink. This way I can stand all the caps next to each other and load the tubes in the dark and screw them to the cap without fumbling. It is sort of a poor man's BTZS tray..

MikeK · Jan 30, 2005

mikepry said:
Mike,
I'm so pleased you like these tubes! I find that all I really need is 250-300ml of chemistry for even development. I think you're using allot more than you really need to. Good Luck.

Mike, thanks - I will go with the 300ml next time.

Mike

MikeK · Jan 30, 2005

John McCallum said:
How did you find the density of your negs Mike? and do you think there will be proper contrast control through developing?

I'm wondering if the necessity for constant aggitation prevents the necessary 'still' periods for N++ control.

The denisty was good for contact printing, and based on my development uisng my Jobo for 4x5 film N- development works for me, so I guess with the right film and developer combination N+ should work.

Mike

mikepry · Jan 30, 2005

Jorge,
I have since used either a hot knife or power rotary sander to remove those things so they'll sit flat on a solid surface.

MikeK · Jan 30, 2005

Jorge said:
Couple of suggestions. You can roll 4 tubes at the same time if you alternate the cap end and roll two with each hand.
Also you know how they have a small hanging loop at the top of the cap? well I drilled holes 5 in apart on a piece of wood that I put in the sink. This way I can stand all the caps next to each other and load the tubes in the dark and screw them to the cap without fumbling. It is sort of a poor man's BTZS tray..

Jorge, I am really predominantly right handed and I really tried using both hands, I got really frustrated and sloshed water over my shirt and shoes. Maybe with practice I might be able to work with both hands at the same time but it sure don't work for me

Mike

Jorge · Jan 30, 2005

mikepry said:
Jorge,
I have since used either a hot knife or power rotary sander to remove those things so they'll sit flat on a solid surface.

You dont want me near any tools that can cause bodily harm...I can see me making a hole the size of a quater trying to sand off those things....

MikeK · Jan 30, 2005

photomc said:
Mike, I also did this two weekends ago and then this weekend. Using 5x7 negatives, one word of caution, when I tried two weekends ago, used Rodinal 1+100, filled the tube to the top (about 1300 ml) and sat the tube on end for stand development. Problem that I had was the film moved to the top of the cap, out of the soup or partially out and end up with a nice bubble pattern where the film slipped out of the developer. This weekend I used 1000 ml, left the tube on it's side and used the notched pattern on the side of the tube to keep up with where the film should be. Rolled it in a tray of water and left it on it's side. Worked great...though that is a lot of developer for one little 5x7 neg.

Please post your results, interested in hearing how it worked out for you.

Did the film really move or float up? I would be worried about the film moving away from the cap end. With 8x10 I can get to the film but with 5x7 it would be a regal pain if went all the way to the other end.

I did not load the film all the way into the tube for easy removal, then fill the tube with the dilute Rodinal screw on the cap and stand it upright on the cap end. that way the film is always covered.

Mike

SchwinnParamount · Jan 30, 2005

Are these tubes 'one size fits all'? I use 4x5 and develop in a tray with the lights off. It works out pretty well but I spend so much time in the dark, I'm starting to feel like a bat. These tubes can be used with the light on? Well, after chemicals are loaded and caps screwed on right? How many sheets do you load per tube? Are the instructions that come with the tubes fairly clear?

John McCallum · Jan 30, 2005

Jorge said:
Couple of suggestions. You can roll 4 tubes at the same time if you alternate the cap end and roll two with each hand.
Also you know how they have a small hanging loop at the top of the cap? well I drilled holes 5 in apart on a piece of wood that I put in the sink. This way I can stand all the caps next to each other and load the tubes in the dark and screw them to the cap without fumbling. It is sort of a poor man's BTZS tray..

Jorge - do you do much contrast control with tube development? I've been finding the tube development a bit too active so far.

SchwinnParamount said:
...be used with the light on? Well, after chemicals are loaded and caps screwed on right? How many sheets do you load per tube? Are the instructions that come with the tubes fairly clear?

Sure can!
I've tried 4 in one tube but found that even with careful turning I had one overlap another during developing. I didn't want to try it again.
Generally 2 off 4x5 sheets / tube works very well.

MikeK · Jan 30, 2005

John McCallum said:
Jorge - do you do much contrast control with tube development? I've been finding the tube development a bit too active so far.

John:

I have been processing my 4x5 negs in my Jobo CPE-2+, and reducing the development time (by about 20%) worked great for me; but these were for enlargement. I wanted a bit more oomph with my 8x10 negs as these are for contact printing on Azo or POP.

Developing a couple of test negatives should get you to the best time for you film/developer combo.

Mike

Jorge · Jan 30, 2005

Sure have John, the trick is not to spin the tube too fast. I had the same problem when I was doing my tests. I first did a calibration test with tmy and HC110 and found that while the speed was falling where it should have, the expansion was too high, so I started spining the tubes slower and it worked.

Think about the Jobo drums, I think the recommended rotation is 42 rpm, but they are thick drums, so going slow with ours should not be a problem.

John McCallum · Jan 31, 2005

Yes I found 20% reduction in 'box times' seemed to give a good neg density.

That's interesting Jorge. I've just started spinning the tubes slower, and that does seem to work. I give them a good random slow spin/slosh for the first 2 minutes or so to develop the shadows and kick off an even development, then real slow (just enough to keep the negs wet constantly) for the remaining time, reducing time by 15-20%.
Problem is, there is still effectively constant aggitation, which I can't see would actually allow for contraction. There's no quantified info (that I've seen) for N+ or N- development in tubes. I haven't measured neg densities thoough like you.

I just hate fumbling around in the dark .

btw I found using only 1/2 - 1" of water in the tray allows the tubes to sit on the bottom and gives greater control turning the tubes.

Jorge · Jan 31, 2005

John McCallum said:
Yes I found 20% reduction in 'box times' seemed to give a good neg density.

That's interesting Jorge. I've just started spinning the tubes slower, and that does seem to work. I give them a good random slow spin/slosh for the first 2 minutes or so to develop the shadows and kick off an even development, then real slow (just enough to keep the negs wet constantly) for the remaining time, reducing time by 15-20%.
Problem is, there is still effectively constant aggitation, which I can't see would actually allow for contraction. There's no quantified info (that I've seen) for N+ or N- development in tubes. I haven't measured neg densities thoough like you.

I just hate fumbling around in the dark .

btw I found using only 1/2 - 1" of water in the tray allows the tubes to sit on the bottom and gives greater control turning the tubes.

Well, there is abig difference here. I do negatives for pt/pd, so my times and contraction still yield negatives that have higher densities than those for silver. There are couple of tricks you can use, a higher dilution, and/or a lower temperature should give you greater contraction. Be careful if you change the dilution that you dont exhaust the developer too soon.

roy · Jan 31, 2005

MikeK said:
Just finished processing my first batch of 8x10 film using the J&C developing tubes.Mike

Anything like this available in UK does anyone know ?

photomc · Jan 31, 2005

MikeK said:
Did the film really move or float up? I would be worried about the film moving away from the cap end. With 8x10 I can get to the film but with 5x7 it would be a regal pain if went all the way to the other end.

I did not load the film all the way into the tube for easy removal, then fill the tube with the dilute Rodinal screw on the cap and stand it upright on the cap end. that way the film is always covered.

Mike

Hi Mike, the film did appear to move or float. That said, I also agitated by moving the tube left to right and down, in other words, like you might agitate a large film tank...that is where the problem came from, but I can not prove it. I put a sheet of film in the tank and let it sit for an hour filled with water to see if it would move, and it did not. Some people have good luck the first time, but somebody has to be that smaller percentage that has a problem.

mikepry · Jan 31, 2005

Try putting the tube in a tray of water and GENTLY spinning it for your agitation then stand it up on end(the way it was prior to agitation.

As far as being afraid of the film being too far down....no problem at all. I shove mine way down there and when I need to retrieve at the end of processing I empty all chemistry and then hold the tube in my right hand with the open end toward my left hand and then give the tube a couple of sharp raps onto the open palm of the left hand. Kinda like clapping your hands but a tube is in one(right hand). This abrupt stopping brings the film up close to the open end for easy removal.

Does this make sense? It's pretty easy it's just hard to explain.

Hope that helps!

Mike

noseoil · Jan 31, 2005

The fiberglass screen trick is still the easiest for film removal. Cut a piece of screen to film size, but leave an edge about an inch longer than the film. Trim all of the excess off until there is a tab left in the center (1" or 25mm, whichever comes first). Once film is loaded, just pull the tab to remove film. Quick and easy. Also allows fluid to circulate onto the back side of the film to remove anti-halation coating and make things work well. Make sure to cut to size so the screen isn't too big. The cut ends can scratch the film. tim

J&C Sheet Film Developing Tube

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