J&C Classic 400 Developing times in D76

[MPienta]

Hello,

I have a box of 8X10 J&C Classic 400 sheet film and wanted to know the developing times rated at IE400 and developed in D76? J&C is now out of business so I don't have access to the information.

Thanks for your time.
Michael

 

[JBrunner]

Start with 9 minutes in stock solution 68f (20c)

You will get tighter results by over exposing when you shoot 1/3 to a full stop, if you can.

 

[MPienta]

Developing times/Film Options

J,

Thanks for the info. I was, initially, developing in Pryo and since J&C Classic is no longer made, what film would You recommend for general "Zone System" landscape work? I will be scannning the negatives into digital files. I've recently revived my LF interest and want to concentrate on one specific film.

Thanks for your time and input.
Michael

 

[JBrunner]

J,

Thanks for the info. I was, initially, developing in Pryo and since J&C Classic is no longer made, what film would You recommend for general "Zone System" landscape work? I will be scannning the negatives into digital files. I've recently revived my LF interest and want to concentrate on one specific film.

Thanks for your time and input.
Michael

Well, recommending film stock s a little like telling somebody what church to join

So I'll just tell you about where I'm at.

I've shot a bunch of different film. Some I've liked more than others, but in the end, I keep coming back to Ilford. I used to try to save a little money, but I finally realized that there really isn't much economy to be had in the long run, because it's not like I'm burning through boxes of the stuff on a daily basis, so for me, the quality and robust nature of HP4 and FP5 are worth it. The same could be said for TMAX and TRI-X. I do love Efke 25 for certain situations. In 4x5 I find the Polaroid type 55 neg is simply sublime, when exposed correctly, under the right circumstance. I'm eager to try the Efke infrared on landscapes and the Adox Ortho for some portraits. So thats where I'm at on film right now.

With developers, I keep going back to PMK. Somehow something in the way I expose, develop, and print seems to favor that developer.

 

[Thomas Bertilsson]

I'm like Jason, I stopped trying to find cheaper film and just started using what I like. It's Tri-X and FP4 for me once I burn through my existing film stock that contains a few other films.
I like that you're settling on one film, I have recently started believing that it's easier to achieve what you want by fully learning how to treat that single emulsion rather than using different films. That's just me though, and may not be universal. All my film is developed in Pyrocat-MC using varying agitation techniques and dilutions.
I can see how Efke 25 could be favored sometimes since it has a reduced sensitivity in the red end of the spectrum.
- Thomas

 

[juan]

I'm like Jason and Thomas - I've quit trying to find a cheap film. Ilford and Kodak for me for the most part although limited experience with Foma has been good. If you think you will be interested in alt process, avoid TMX - Tmax 100. It has a UV blocking layer. The 400 speed doesn't have the layer.
juan

 

[Rolleijoe]

Hello,

I have a box of 8X10 J&C Classic 400 sheet film and wanted to know the developing times rated at IE400 and developed in D76? J&C is now out of business so I don't have access to the information.

Thanks for your time.
Michael

J&C is nothing more than Fortepan. Try the digital truth site for developing start times.

 

[David A. Goldfarb]

J&C/Fortepan 400 works for me in a few different developers with the same or slightly longer (5-15%) times than Tri-X. I rate it anywhere between 160 and 640 depending on the developer. In D-76, I'd start with 200. I wouldn't do a lot of testing with this film, since it is no longer available.

 

[Uncle Bill]

I have developed J&C Classic 400 35mm with HC110 Dil B. for 7.5 minutes at 20c with decent results. Again follow the advice in over exposing from a third to a full stop for optimal results outdoors.