Isopan ISS from 1965 - how to expose and develop

Signs & fragments

A
Signs & fragments

  • 4
  • 0
  • 46
Summer corn, summer storm

D
Summer corn, summer storm

  • 1
  • 2
  • 50
Horizon, summer rain

D
Horizon, summer rain

  • 0
  • 0
  • 49
$12.66

A
$12.66

  • 7
  • 5
  • 200

Recent Classifieds

Forum statistics

Threads
198,819
Messages
2,781,296
Members
99,714
Latest member
MCleveland
Recent bookmarks
0

DickieT

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Netherlands
Format
Multi Format
Hi guys - I am new here but not to photography :smile: I would appreciate some help on the following.

I discovered and old 120 roll of Isopan ISS from 1965 at my parents house (ASA100). The film is still in the box, neatly packed in a foil and was stored dry, but unlikely in a very cool place. Before I stick it into my Hassy, I wanted to check if there are any guidelines for exposing such old film? I have come across rules of thumb such as one stop slower than box speed for every ten years past the printed expiration date. That would be ASA 3?

Once exposed, how to best develop ?

Thanks for your thoughts - Dick
 

pentaxuser

Member
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
19,950
Location
Daventry, No
Format
35mm
I think that whatever validity the one stop per decade has, gets rather ridiculous after your number of decades when the fllm speed on that formula reaches 3 but I cannot say how many stops reduction to give. I have no experience of trying to develop film anything like this old but given your estimate of storage conditions any image at all might be regarded as a success

If other suggestions do not grab your attention why not try the famous semi-stand development in Rodinal/HC110 of at least an hour with say 10 agitations at the start and 1-2 agitations every 15 mins for the 2 of the quarters then 1 at 45mins

Lets us all know what you did and how it went

Thanks

pentaxuser
 

tokam

Subscriber
Joined
Nov 7, 2008
Messages
586
Location
Sydney, Aust
Format
Multi Format
I hope that you get better luck than I did a few years ago with ancient BW film. I was given two rolls of Fuji Neopan SS expired in 1968, 100ASA.

I exposed at 50 ASA and processed in HC-110. Everyone know that HC-110 kills base fog, right?? Utter b**llsh*t!!

Very hard to see what had been recorded through the fog and to add insult to injury, upon drying, the strip of negatives had curled up lengthwise to the diameter of a pencil and didn't want to uncurl.

I kept the other roll as a display piece, including its price tag of 69 Yen.
 
OP
OP

DickieT

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Netherlands
Format
Multi Format
Haha - seems like I have enough challenges ahead :smile: I am inclined to expose @ 25 and see where it goes ? Thanks for any help - Dick
 

Down Under

Member
Joined
Aug 22, 2006
Messages
1,086
Location
The universe
Format
Multi Format
My (safe) prediction: After a lot of research and much effort, you will be very disappointed with your results.

Films this old are really shelf queens. If you still have the original box, not too damaged, and the film is still in its wrapping, someone on Ebay will probably want to buy it.

Use the money you make from selling it to buy new film and go shooting. Much more fun, and more reliable.

Enjoy!
 

pentaxuser

Member
Joined
May 9, 2005
Messages
19,950
Location
Daventry, No
Format
35mm
As the film and it was one film only, based on his wording, that was found at the OP's parents' house, it may well contain stuff that is of real interest and value to the OP. Besides there is always the "thrill of what is a treasure hunt" so yes an attempt to develop for both these reasons is something worthwhile and at least entertaining or so it seems to me.

To tokam in Oz: HC110 is good but not a miracle worker given the circumstances you describe about your film :D

pentaxuser
 

Don_ih

Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2021
Messages
7,741
Location
Ontario
Format
35mm RF
it may well contain stuff that is of real interest

It's unexposed film. He's considering using it.
My vote is go for it. Aim it at well-lit scenes, because the shadow drop-off will be drastic, expose it at iso6, develop it in strong developer, for the shortest time - maybe 2/3 the recommended time (thus the overexposure). Lower temperature dev and shorter times will help cut the fog. BTZ would help, but you probably don't want to buy that for one roll.
 
OP
OP

DickieT

Member
Joined
Apr 5, 2021
Messages
3
Location
Netherlands
Format
Multi Format
Thanks guys, I appreciate the comments and I do not considerer any of them negative :smile: I am going to expose the film for the fun of it. And I realise the results will not be optimal and that's fine. My aim was to make the best of it and hence the question to this community.

@ Eugen - please let me know how you get on, provided it is a reference in any way

Thanks! Dick
 
Photrio.com contains affiliate links to products. We may receive a commission for purchases made through these links.
To read our full affiliate disclosure statement please click Here.

PHOTRIO PARTNERS EQUALLY FUNDING OUR COMMUNITY:



Ilford ADOX Freestyle Photographic Stearman Press Weldon Color Lab Blue Moon Camera & Machine
Top Bottom