Is this workable? Elnapress as a dry mounting press?

[cheekygeek]

I've never done dry mounting before, and I've been looking at various options and even used the shipping costs quite a bit. Then I stopped dead in my tracks and realized that I may already have one: An Elnapress (swiss ironing press) like this one. I have an infrared thermometer that I can test the various heat settings with to see how hot the press becomes. The platen is irregularly shaped, but has a 10x18 rectangular surface before the taper begins. The throat is about 13-1/2 inches deep also, meaning that (in sections) I should be able to do up to 20x24 (which is the largest paper that I have). I may need to make an auxillary bottom cover to make up for the thickness that goes away when I take the cloth padding off the bottom (or maybe I should leave it on)?

So what temperature do I need for dry mounting tissue anyway. (Does anybody still do dry mounting?)

I see some threads on using a press like this for drying fiber-based paper also (have not gotten to read through those yet).

 

[Doc W]

Lots of people still dry mount, including me, but I have no idea if this press would work. I would suggest that you look for an older dry mount press that is made for the job. They are not always cheap, but it is possible to find one for a reasonable price, say, a few hundred bucks.

 

[Ken Nadvornick]

I still dry mount. I wouldn't give a print to anyone unless it was dry mounted. It's the gold standard of impeccable presentation.

Critics worry endlessly about the permanency. What if something yellows with age? What if something is damaged? Well, use the finest materials and take good care of the work and it will last longer than you and your grandkids will. And likely their kids as well.

My concern with this device would be related to how much clamping pressure it generates, and how even that pressure might be. A purpose-built dry mount press applies a very strong and very even clamp force, and has pressure adjustments that can be calibrated to the thickness of the mounting sandwich. Proper clamping is essential to successful adhesion.

I use clean upper and lower boards, with the work to be mounted in between. This combination distributes the heat more evenly. It also seems to preserve the unferrotyped glossy print surface better since no super smooth cover sheet is required.

I set the thermostat-controlled temperature on my Seal 210-MX to 200F/93C. That way when I open it to insert and position the stack of (cooler) boards it will drop down to around 185F/85C. I leave it clamped for 3 minutes, during which time the temperature rises back to around 195F/91C. So the average working temperature over those 3 minutes is around 190F/88C. I use Seal/Bienfang ColorMount mounting tissue, which is rated at 185F/85C.

If you can swing it, I'd also recommend finding a purpose-build used press. If you have reached the point of desiring to dry mount your photographs, then acquiring a real press will likely be a lifetime-amortized purchase for you.

Ken

 

[Patrick Robert James]

I have dry mounted small prints with an iron before. I think people are overthinking this. If the press gets hot enough to activate the tissue, it will work. Put a matt over the print and take it out while it is hot then set something heavy on it. Should be fine.

 

[MattKing]

The real question is whether it would work better and/or be more convenient than using a clothes iron.

 

[Nige]

another left field option might be a sandwich press... since we have one, might give it a try

 

[scheimfluger_77]

I still dry mount. I wouldn't give a print to anyone unless it was dry mounted. It's the gold standard of impeccable presentation.

...

Ken

With all the hoopla about hinged mounts and photo corners, I'ts nice to hear someone say this. Prints I mounted 30 and 40 years ago still looks quite good.

 

[Bob Carnie]

another left field option might be a sandwich press... since we have one, might give it a try

Or a waffle Iron for a more textured effect

 

[Wayne]

I'd try it with a practice print. I'd be worried about pressing in sections. It might create some less than desirable "edge effects" like wrinkles or unevenness.

 

[Doc W]

With all the hoopla about hinged mounts and photo corners, I'ts nice to hear someone say this. Prints I mounted 30 and 40 years ago still looks quite good.

I made my first darkroom print almost fifty years ago. I did not use HCA and I did not tone it, although I clearly remember washing it for an hour. I dry-mounted it and it has remained intact for all this time, better than many other prints over the years that were not dry-mounted and have suffered damage from handling.

I am not arguing against archival methods, btw, but I do think we over-react a little.

Btw, my dry-mount press is an old t-shirt press which must weigh over 100 lbs. It does work although I do plan to get a better and larger one at some point soon.

I reserve judgement on the waffle iron and await preliminary test results from Bob.

 

[Bob Carnie]

I tried it print was a bit wavy but my wife suggested maple syrup as a coating.

 

[Doc W]

I tried it print was a bit wavy but my wife suggested maple syrup as a coating.

Perhaps you have come up with a truly Canadian toner. Sweet!

 

[MartinP]

Or a waffle Iron for a more textured effect

Hmmm . . that texture would help prevent people making copy-prints using the usual side-lights setup - good plan. It might need a thicker matt-board though, tricky decisions . . .

 

[RalphLambrecht]

I've never done dry mounting before, and I've been looking at various options and even used the shipping costs quite a bit. Then I stopped dead in my tracks and realized that I may already have one: An Elnapress (swiss ironing press) like this one. I have an infrared thermometer that I can test the various heat settings with to see how hot the press becomes. The platen is irregularly shaped, but has a 10x18 rectangular surface before the taper begins. The throat is about 13-1/2 inches deep also, meaning that (in sections) I should be able to do up to 20x24 (which is the largest paper that I have). I may need to make an auxillary bottom cover to make up for the thickness that goes away when I take the cloth padding off the bottom (or maybe I should leave it on)?

So what temperature do I need for dry mounting tissue anyway. (Does anybody still do dry mounting?)

I see some threads on using a press like this for drying fiber-based paper also (have not gotten to read through those yet).

If I remember correctly,I dry mount at about 100C for 3 minutes.

 

[cheekygeek]

Thank you, Ralph! Appreciate your taking the time to reply.

 

[Nige]

I gave my sandwich press a go and it work fine. Can only do a 8x10 on slightly bigger board (if desired) though as the bottom surface has a lip running around it.

 

[Nathan King]

Like others here I dry mount anything that will be displayed. I now have a nice press, but I started out using a clothes iron. It was difficult and tedious but worked well. I think your iron will work with a little practice and fiddling.

 

[paul ron]

ive also used a clothes iron when i first started. it takes some practice but once you get the hang... it looks just as nice as press mounted.

use a matt on top n heavy weight is good advice cotton setting is about right. check the temp of the tissue you're using. i have a laser temp gun to check the iron.

 

[paul ron]

I have dry mounted small prints with an iron before. I think people are overthinking this. If the press gets hot enough to activate the tissue, it will work. Put a matt over the print and take it out while it is hot then set something heavy on it. Should be fine.

+1

 

[samcomet]

A little bit off topic here but may be useful - I just bought a "sealing iron" from a hobby store that is the exact same make and model of a "photographic tacking iron" from a well known photographic outlet, but for less than half the price. Reminds me of the old story about "film screws" being a dollar each because they are made for the film industry .......

 

[paul ron]

i build model airplanes n got my tacking iron for $15 from a hobby shop while B&H sells the same thing for $200!

go figure?