4 inversions in 10 seconds every minute.
On SS reels, I have found 120 film needs more agitation during fixing than I expected -- more than development -- to clear the film properly. YMMD
I've only heard of over/under agitation during development, not fixing, causing un-even negatives. Can you kindly elaborate?
Could you please confirm that these striations run lengthwise?
Sometimes incomplete fixing can lead to the negatives not fully clearing. Insufficient agitation can result in localized incomplete clearing. The good thing is that you can repair this by fully re-fixing the film.
In my case, I was seeing incomplete silver removal along the edges of the film (where the film is next to the reel spirals) -- causing a need for extra burning-in along the sides of the print. I went to almost constant agitation during fixing (120 in single and double SS reels and tanks) and I got complete fixing.I've only heard of over/under agitation during development, not fixing, causing un-even negatives. Can you kindly elaborate?
If the streaking is still visible after re-fixing, consider your agitation technique during development.
The timing scheme seems fine, but how are you agitating the tank? A common method many use is to give the tank a half-twist as you invert it, then tap the tank on the counter before setting it back down after the last inversion. The goal is to introduce random developer flow over the film, which helps to reduce streaking of the type that you've shown.
This is a good point. I'm using the straight down and up inversion, no twisting. I would have guessed there is enough turbulence from this motion alone,
I’ve recently started trying Ilford’s agitation method: 4 inversions in 10 seconds every minute.
This is Ilford's recommended agitation method for its own developers. Nowhere do they state it should be used universally, nor do they mention pyro developers, which are different beasts all together.
With 510 Pyro and Pyrocat-HD, recommendation is always constant agitation for the first minute. After that you either follow with 5-10 seconds agitation every 30 seconds or every minute (see, for example, Sandy King on Pyrocat-HD development procedure) in case of normal agitation, or you have different options in case of minimal agitation (often used with 510 Pyro). In the latter case, a pre-soak is recommended.
PMK, which I've never used, also has its own agitation scheme. Some documentation mention continuous 1st 15 seconds and 2 inversion every 15 seconds thereafter.
With pyro, you also have to make sure you use a water stop bath. I do three water changes with 30 seconds continuous agitation each. If you had an agitation problem resulting in unevenness, it might have been here.
That said, if you say that you've had the same problem with D-76, then I'd look elsewhere.
It could also be due to agitation that is insufficiently random.
Whenever I invert a tank to agitate, I also impart some rotation.
The best way to accomplish this, I find, is to invert a tank by putting one hand on top and one hand on the bottom, and then inverting the tank by rolling my hands so that the top hand ends up on the bottom, and the bottom hand ends up on top. This automatically adds a rotation component.
I can obtain the same effect with a single hand, but it helps to visualize it by first using two.
I also like to hear the liquid tumble through the reel and film.
Looks like pre-wetted the film? Looks like it.
I don’t pre-soak.
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