No. It can't. Self-replenishnment from working solution can't ever (even theoretically) cause excess developer strength.
It can't even bring the strength of your replenished working solution to the strength of the original working solution. Unless you are doing 100% replenishment (before somebody asks, yes, 99.95% would be fine as well), of course.
But, you are probably more concerned whether you are replenishing more than you should. The answer again is no. So, what you really are asking is whether you are "replenishing" more than what manufacturer thinks is an acceptable drift from proper developer strength for a home user where they can blame the user and not their false advertising for less than optimal results. To which, obviously, there is not a definitive answer.
With commercial volume combination developer replenisher solutions, how does the replenisher mix ratio actually compare to the starting working strength ratio?
For e.g. Fuji, you could find numbers like these:
View attachment 401306
Look at the bottom row of the table where it says "TANK from REP". This means "mixing a working strength developer as used in a tank or machine from an already mixed replenisher". As you can see, they take 850ml of replenisher, add 135ml of water and 15ml of starter. The starter is a solution of mostly sodium bromide in water. So you can take from this that a regular working strength developer is the replenisher watered down by around 20% and has some bromide added to it. You can easily conclude from this that the working strength developer is significantly less active (it's more dilute and the bromide further restrains it) than the replenisher.
Hope this finally clears it up.
I'm not sure I would recommend continuing replenishment of an existing used working strength volume after a kit is finished and with the contents of a new kit. To be safer, it may make more sense to discard and start anew.
The picture you showed of the bush and cars looked pretty good to me so can I clarify: Was that one from the above re-use method or from the replenishment method? If the latter can I take it that all negs processed from the re-use method were equally as good?
pentaxuser
(I also cannot procure 60% glacial acetic acid to bring this pH down, if anyone has another suggestion for lowering developer pH that would be great).
Cleaning vinegar from the supermarket will also work. You don't need that much. If you can't purchase even that, in a pinch you can use a plain vinegar for culinary purposes; try to obtain one that has no flavorings and colorants added. But I'm sure cleaning vinegar is available to you. It's generally around 7% acetic acid, which is fine for this purpose.
View attachment 401424
While at first glance this may seem quite as OK as the examples we've seen earlier in this thread, these negatives are (1) unprintable and (2) a far cry from what they might have been if they had been processed properly even if scanned.
It's a shadow scene shot in early spring on a fairly drab day, and it leans a bit towards cyan. It can be warmed up if so desired. Which I don't think improves anything - but then again, there's awfully little to fix about this piece of compositional confusion to begin with.The colors of the leaves appear to have a strong shift towards blue despite the scene being relatively well-balanced otherwise.
Not necessarily entirely without halides. IDK, maybe, maybe not.You mentioned that the composition of replenisher is a more concentrated CD mixture absent of halides.
Not that I know of, no. Maybe something could be extrapolated from the C41 formulas that are posted combined with the SDS and the mixing instructions for replenishers. One should be able to get close on that basis.I'm curious if there is a chemical recipe floating around for DIY replenisher?
Depends a bit on how critical you are of the end result, but I'd actually expect you could get away just fine with any commercial replenisher formula if you found one.I assume it would have to be specifically matched to the composition of the DIY developer one is using.
Just mix fresh what you need, when you need it. For me, that has always been most of the rationale for DIY mixing a color developer.
Adding DIY replenishment into the process would probably just over-complicate things.
I am curious what your exhaustion tolerance for C-41/ECN-2 developer has been. 10 rolls? Do you ever extend development time to compensate?
RE: extended dev times - There is an automatic agitator on the market in the style of a simplified JOBO. It does not include any sort of heating element and automatically compensates for temperature drop by extending development time accordingly. When I used to develop without a heated water jacket the tank tended to lose 3+ degrees F. Since color dye layers develop at different rates at temperatures +- 100F I always try maintain constant temp. I have seen examples of C-41 developed at much lower temperatures (80F) and the results reflect this variation in the dye layers. Could this device actually give good results with a potentially 3-5+ degree temp drop?
I am curious what your exhaustion tolerance for C-41/ECN-2 developer has been. 10 rolls? Do you ever extend development time to compensate?
No method of temperature compensation can compensate for the effect you mentioned, i.e. differential rates of development depending on how deeply 'buried' the layer is in the emulsion stack. Whether a 3-5 degree (F) temp drop is very relevant, I couldn't say. It sounds like pretty much the most you would see a tank deviate if you start at around 100F/38C and just put the tank on a non-heated surface for the 3m15 or so it takes to complete development.Could this device actually give good results with a potentially 3-5+ degree temp drop?
This post shows color shifts in C-41 and ECN-2 developed at different temp ranges (thanks to VintageVisual for sharing it):
On a color-corrected output. What you're comparing is not the negatives. You're comparing images that are produced from a negative, with a very, very heavy dose of digital editing. But you may not be realizing this due to the automation involved.That being said, overall contrast, dynamic range, sharpness, saturation and grain are essentially equal.
The color differences are also clearly visible in the negatives.
The question remains at what exhaustion point this variation starts to become noticable.
How does it stack up compared to expectations?
On a color-corrected output. What you're comparing is not the negatives. You're comparing images that are produced from a negative, with a very, very heavy dose of digital editing.
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