Is this developing method correct?

Any general purpose developer will work well with T-Max 100. So I would make my decision based on questions of availability and ease of use. As you are in Malaysia, I would say that is doubly important.

I'm a fan of HC-110, and like using it for T-Max films. HC-110 is very available for me, and once you learn how to dilute it straight from concentrate, it is very easy to use.

T-Max developer works very well with T-Max film (not surprisingly) and it is particularly suitable for warmer temperatures (24C).

Others will have their favourites.

Matt, as i am in Malaysia i import everything from US. Everything is extra expensive for me. This film hobby has cost me quite a fair bit now but so far no regrets. from what i read i thought of buying HC110 but i notice there are many different dilution to this. Rather confusing. Do you think you can help me out?

can i use this chart for HC 110 :http://www.chrisjohnsonphotographer.com/charts.shtml#anchor30675
If i understand correctly dilution of 1:7 means dilution B?

mingaun said:

Can someone here advise me the best developer to use for tmax 100.

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Don't worry about using "the best" developer. Unless you are doing something very special or different on purpose, it doesn't make that much difference. "The best" depends on what you consider "the best" and even then, differences are usually not that great. I'd just suggest using what you have.

As far as timing goes, Tmax being a popular film, your developer documentation should give you the time. The only difference is, Tmax films usually require twice the fix time as the regular film. Your fixer documentation should give you the number as well. It should say "T-grain film" or Tmax by name.

mingaun said:

can i use this chart for HC 110 :http://www.chrisjohnsonphotographer.com/charts.shtml#anchor30675
If i understand correctly dilution of 1:7 means dilution B?

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HC-110 dilution B works well. If there is a "standard" dilution, it is dilution B.

Many here will use different dilutions. I'm currently using the 1 + 49 dilution that APUG's own Jason Brunner has on his website:

http://www.jasonbrunner.com/hc110.html

The link you posted refers to what one does if one first makes an intermediate stock solution from the thick(ish) syrup that comes from Kodak. Many/most of us here prefer to work straight from the concentrate, because the concentrate takes very little space and keeps just about forever. If you make the intermediate stock solution, it doesn't keep as long.

If you make dilution B from the concentrate, you add one part concentrate to 31 parts water. If you make Jason Brunner's 1 + 49 dilution, you add one part concentrate to 49 parts water. Either way, the trick you need to master is measuring small quantities (say 6 ml) of the thick, viscous concentrate. It is not hard, just finicky.

If you use dilution B, all Kodak and third party information about times and temperatures will apply. If you use higher dilutions, the developing times will be longer (which is good).

Thanks tkamiya and Matt for your advise.

I usually take a small amount from the developer concentrate and dilute it just enough for my use and throw it away. So in that sense i need to take one part concentrate and 31 part water. I believe i dont need to add any additional water to the main HC 110 concentrate bottle to prevent oxidation as i did for the Adox developer right? And it can last a long time?

What is this intermediate stock?? Dont quite understand. Hope you can help explain a bit to me.

Also i read from the internet that tmax film is hard to wash and give a pink color or something like that. Is my Ilford washing method adequate for this?

And Matt thanks for the Jason Brunner link. I like and enjoy his videos a lot. Funny kind of guy in the nice sense. I trust him so i think i will go with his dilution. So the only thing that changes is the development time at 9 minutes. All other steps after that should remain the same right?

mingaun said:

Thanks tkamiya and Matt for your advise.

I usually take a small amount from the developer concentrate and dilute it just enough for my use and throw it away. So in that sense i need to take one part concentrate and 31 part water. I believe i dont need to add any additional water to the main HC 110 concentrate bottle to prevent oxidation as i did for the Adox developer right? And it can last a long time?

What is this intermediate stock?? Dont quite understand. Hope you can help explain a bit to me.

Also i read from the internet that tmax film is hard to wash and give a pink color or something like that. Is my Ilford washing method adequate for this?

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1) don't add water to the main bottle. HC-110 is special, because it is water (rather than air) that causes it to lose activity over time;
2) the intermediate stock is what one gets if one follows one of the two different dilution instructions. The HC-110 concentrate is a thick syrup and a bit difficult to dispense in small quantities. So for people who develop larger quantities of film, Kodak recommends dumping the entire 16oz bottle into a 64 oz container to make 64 oz of intermediate stock, and then diluting that intermediate stock one part stock plus seven parts water for each film developed. If you think you are going to develop 30+ rolls per month, this makes sense, but otherwise the stock may go bad before you use it up;
3) the pink colour doesn't really matter. If it bothers you, the Ilford washing method plus a wash aid like Kodak Hypo Clearing agent will help eliminate it.

Thanks Matt. Now it's clear to me.