Is this a good place to start with Alt Process?

[drgoose]

My ADD is again getting the best of me and I want to try some alternative processes even though I still suck at printing traditional silver gelatin prints. I don't have a UV source at this time. I guess the end point will eventually be either Platinum/Paladium or carbon transfer if my ADD does not take me in a different direction before.

Currently I have 4x5 camera but not 8x10. I have a couple of questions

1) Is this a good place to start playing with alt processes? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1832016-Rockland-Colloid-Tintype-Parlor-Kit

2) What kind of UV light source could I use to print 4x5 contact prints that does not cost 600 dlls?

3) Does it make sense to learn on 4x5 negatives first and then either go to digital negatives in larger seize or 8x10 from camera?

Thanks to everyone in advance

 

[cliveh]

My ADD is again getting the best of me and I want to try some alternative processes even though I still suck at printing traditional silver gelatin prints. I don't have a UV source at this time. I guess the end point will eventually be either Platinum/Paladium or carbon transfer if my ADD does not take me in a different direction before.

Currently I have 4x5 camera but not 8x10. I have a couple of questions

1) Is this a good place to start playing with alt processes? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1832016-Rockland-Colloid-Tintype-Parlor-Kit

2) What kind of UV light source could I use to print 4x5 contact prints that does not cost 600 dlls?

3) Does it make sense to learn on 4x5 negatives first and then either go to digital negatives in larger seize or 8x10 from camera?

Thanks to everyone in advance

1) Don't know as not familiar with their products, but probably wouldn't do any harm.

2) How about using the sun.

3) 5 X 4 negs are fine.

 

[Rick A]

I use a quartz-halogen flood lamp for carbon transfer, it produces a decent uv light, as long as you remember to remove the uv filter glass from them.

 

[removed account4]

My ADD is again getting the best of me and I want to try some alternative processes even though I still suck at printing traditional silver gelatin prints. I don't have a UV source at this time. I guess the end point will eventually be either Platinum/Paladium or carbon transfer if my ADD does not take me in a different direction before.

Currently I have 4x5 camera but not 8x10. I have a couple of questions

1) Is this a good place to start playing with alt processes? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/1832016-Rockland-Colloid-Tintype-Parlor-Kit

2) What kind of UV light source could I use to print 4x5 contact prints that does not cost 600 dlls?

3) Does it make sense to learn on 4x5 negatives first and then either go to digital negatives in larger seize or 8x10 from camera?

Thanks to everyone in advance

hi doctor

i use the tintype parlor / rockland silver gelatin kits
it is a lot of fun !
the main problem with this type of tintype
is that there aren't a lot of people who do them
so there isn't a lot of troubleshooting information
( the tech guy at rockland colloid is extremely helpful, nice
and really wants people to do great things with the emulsions he developed )
AND some of the folks who do wet plate tintypes have a chip on their shoulder
because they do the earlier wet process, and this process is less toxic, and doesn't need
to be processed on the spot. they claim it isn't "authentic" when for a long number of years
there were loads of people using silver gelatin tintype and its sister processes ( street photographers ).
like with everything it takes a little practice but once you get the hang of it, its a lot of fun.

btw, you can also get the kit directly from rockland colloid which will make sure the developer included in the kit
is fresh.

have fun!
john

 

[drgoose]

Clive, I would like to be able to work at night so the sun would not do. Thks.

 

[RowanBloemhof]

Hi there dr. Goose.

There are a couple of ways to get started. You could right away get into a process like carbon or Pt/Pd. I myself have been experimenting with carbon for about 6 months. And i must say this is really one of the more complicated processes out there. If you even alter the smallest detail in your process the results can be either surprising or devastating. I would then personally advice you to start with something more simple and within your grasp. With something simpler i would for instance advice to try Gum/Casein printing.

Here's a few pro's i find with this process:
- Its reasonably cheap. For a couple of tens of Euros/Dollars you can get yourself enough material to make tens if not hundreds of prints. All you need is Dichromate, Gum/Casein, pigment and paper. You can then of course also invest into a uv box, but afaik Florida offers plenty of sun to do it outdoors.
- No need for using transfer processes. Meaning this greatly simplifies the process. Making it easier to get consistent results.
- The prints can easily be made on unhardened sized paper. Either Acrylic medium, Gum arabic, or gelatin will work fine.
- No need to pour carbon tissues, you directly apply the coat to the final medium. This of course unless you want to purchase the tissue from B&S.

1. Im sure the kit will work. But i personally find it more interesting and feasible to purchase the materials separately. In most cases its cheaper too!
2. The sun will work fine i think in your case. As Cliveh pointed out. I myself made an exposure box from 30cm UV tubes harvested out of an old face tanning device. Including the curver box i build it into, costed me a total of €7.50(about 10 dollars). Just need some skills with wiring, or make sure you carefully right down how the tubes are hooked up to the power source.
3. I found digital negatives very time consuming to master(not saying i currently do^^) and a big pain. Using 4x5's works fine i guess, it only limits you in the size of your final print. For gum and casein i think paper negatives work quite nicely. Just make a print under the enlarger and then contact print it onto another piece of paper to get a bigger negative.

Gum is basicly what i started out with. After that Carbon. But last weekend i did some experimenting with Casein, which is closely related to gum printing. And found this very easy and fun to work with. This is what i ended up with after a few hours of trying: https://www.flickr.com/photos/rowanbloemhof/15065401223/in/set-72157648672046750

I hope my 2 cents help you making a decision

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

1) Is this a good place to start playing with alt processes? http://www.freestylephoto.biz/183201...ype-Parlor-Kit

2) What kind of UV light source could I use to print 4x5 contact prints that does not cost 600 dlls?

3) Does it make sense to learn on 4x5 negatives first and then either go to digital negatives in larger seize or 8x10 from camera?

1. I would start with something easy like Van Dykes or Kallitypes.
2. I've used a 300W floodlight up to 8x10 negs. Hung it from the ceiling. I could curtain off the area to avoid UV... just be careful. Very hot light source.
3. Yes, I would start with what you have, 4x5. I know people who make only 4x5 contacts and they look great. I work with 8x10 negs (sometimes 14x17) and digital negs.

Keep things simple when starting out. Keep detailed notes on EVERYTHING.

 

[Vaughn]

How about: http://www.homedepot.com/p/28-LED-UV-Flashlight-900221/203772119 Might be nice for burning in areas of large prints!

These just plug in an d are ready to go. Buy 4 or 5 of them, plug them into a power strip and you'd be up and running in minutes:

http://www.homedepot.com/p/GE-22-in-Fluorescent-Blacklight-Fixture-10186/202024447

But here are the rest of them: http://www.homedepot.com/s/black+light?NCNI-5


I do not like these types of light for carbon, but great for platinum. Cyanotypes are a great way to break into alt printing (and can be toned if you do not want blue prints) and for testing one's set-up (darkroom/dimroom), methods and lights.

 

[M Carter]

Gum Bichromate sounds like a particularly nice entry into alt process (though it's a print process - if you're into wet-plate negs... well, print 'em with gum?)

 

[RowanBloemhof]

M Carter,

Yes indeed. Although you can make gum prints as complicated as you like. Once you start doing cmyk, or other multilayer techniques it gets quite complex. But doing just one or two layers with different tones or exposures keeps it reasonably simple.

But to be honest i do really recomend looking at Casein. The process is practicly equal to gum. with the big pro you can more easily control development by brush or with a water spray.

 

[Uncle Goose]

Philips makes UV fluorescent lamps for aquariums that emit UV, they are reasonably cheap and can be put in any fluorescent lamp fixture of the right size. And they last a long long time. I do Cyanotypes with them with an average exposure of 8min with a distance of about 30cm from the paper.

 

[Mark Fisher]

I'd do either cyanotype or Van Dyke simply because they are printing out processes and you can just use the sun. Buy the chemicals (Artcraft, Bostick and Sullivan or Photographers Formulary)and a cheap scale (ebay). A kit from Bostick or Photo Formulary is fine too. I'd find a used contact printing frame on ebay or make your own. With these two processes, though, you'll need to match your negative contrast to the process. I think that gum is a bit more flexible, but I've never done it. I've also seen some very nice prints made from laser copies that were oiled or waxed....grainy and a bit funky, but fun. Definitely check out alternativephotography.com......every process known to man (almost) is there.