Is there a significant difference in color between ...

[Sirius Glass]

Is there a significant difference in color between a Tiffen Skylight 1A Pro Filter and a B+W KR 1.5 Skylight filter?

 

[David Lyga]

There are slight variations in 'warmth' but, overall, you will never be able to tell the difference in your print. - David Lyga

 

[Sirius Glass]

KEH told me that they are the same.

 

[DREW WILEY]

I'd be more concerned about the quality difference. KR 1.5 is probably a bit closer to 1B. Hoya has something more approximate to 1A if you need something fully multicoated. Heliopan also has some relevant items. Ideally this should be a very pale pinkish or salmon color and not magneta per se, which is too bluish. These subtle differences can indeed respond differently on different films with respect to UV absorbtion and removing minor blue casts, as well as a modest color balance tweak, esp at high altitude. You'd have to be more specific about your chosen film and application before I could give a specific answer.

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

KEH told me that they are the same.

I have the B+W KR1.5 Skylight [67] which is a very, very, pale pink colour. I have seen pictures of the Tiffen 1A filter (not available here in Australia) and it looks a lot more pinkish, similar to the Hoya HMC Skylight 1B filters (I describe these as "very pink"). How 'heavy' the tint is can definitely affect some emulsions: the Hoya Sky 1B is frequently used to 'warm up' Provia 100F because of its known 'cool' look. Same with Velvia to get a leg up on its high-blue in shade.

 

[DREW WILEY]

Indeed! So one needs to know the difference between simply counteracting UV in terms of color and how it affects sharpness over distance,
which will differ both with atmospheric conditions and the specific film in question, and intending a secondary application of mild color temperature correction for bringing out certain colors.

 

[AgX]

How many photographic filter glass manufacturers are there?


I think 2. Maybe 3.

 

[Sirius Glass]

There are slight variations in 'warmth' but, overall, you will never be able to tell the difference in your print. - David Lyga

All my lenses but one, use B+W KR1.5 filters. I need a 86mm filter. The B+W KR1.5 filter is a low profile filter which will not allow the lens hood to screw into it [think: stacking threaded filters]. The only skylight filter that is thick enough to stack is the Tiffen Skylight 1-A filter. KEH, Wikipedia and FreeStyle say that that KR1.5 and Skylight 1A/1B are interchangeable. I see a slight difference. My concern is that if I have a series of photographs taken on the same film [using changeable film backs] with different lenses, will the differences be noticeable in the color prints?

 

[Poisson Du Jour]

All my lenses but one, use B+W KR1.5 filters. I need a 86mm filter. The B+W KR1.5 filter is a low profile filter which will not allow the lens hood to screw into it [think: stacking threaded filters]. The only skylight filter that is thick enough to stack is the Tiffen Skylight 1-A filter. KEH, Wikipedia and FreeStyle say that that KR1.5 and Skylight 1A/1B are interchangeable. I see a slight difference. My concern is that if I have a series of photographs taken on the same film [using changeable film backs] with different lenses, will the differences be noticeable in the color prints?

I see a big difference. .The B+W filter is a very, very pale pink, you have to study is carefully e.g. on a sheet of white paper. Then put a Skylight 1B filter (e.g. Hoya's, Tiffen's) next to it. What do you see? The Hoya/Tiffen will impart a 'warm' tone to the photograph (skies may actually come out with a pink tinge to them), while the B+W will do nothing.So I don't understand how KEH, Wiki and Freestyle can say they are interchangeable when the tints can clearly alter the photograph!

Is there only one version of the B+W KR1.5 in 86mm — unthreaded? My 67Ø and 72Ø is threaded.If the larger sizes are unthreaded/low profile, go for a clear/protector/UV(0) (e.g. Kenko) filter.

 

[Sirius Glass]

I see the difference. That is why I am concerned.

The B+W filters are threaded, but there are so few threads that the lens hood cannot screw into the threads.

 

[AgX]

B&W expicitely state that their slimline filters take threaded lensd hoods.
That likely means that the thread at the lens hood does not go as far as the rim of that Hood, has a bervelled edge. You may consider grinding that rim off until the edge reaches the start of that thread.

 

[David Lyga]

My concern is that if I have a series of photographs taken on the same film [using changeable film backs] with different lenses, will the differences be noticeable in the color prints?

Yes, there will be a 'difference' in color prints. But you have to understand that that difference is one of subjectivity that the individual manufacturers have decided is the proper bit of 'warmth' to impart onto the final photograph.

In summation, there is no 'correct' rendition when slicing hairs. - David Lyga

 

[AgX]

It is a bit more complicated. We got two filter systems: based on minerals and based on dyes. And then we have different manufacturers.
For a part spectral differences are due to technical differences.

 

[DREW WILEY]

YES. There IS a significant difference under CERTAIN SPECIFIC CONDITIONS, related to certain specific hues on certain specific films, and how
they do print. So yes, you can unequivocally see the difference in the print IF you are one of those exceptional individuals capable of that degree of nuanced control in the darkroom. Otherwise, it has more to do with how many aphids or gnats are crawling or smeared over the surface of the filter rather than the brand itself.