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Is the Nikon F2 light seal compatiable with F3?

CrazyCockatoo

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Sep 5, 2024
Messages
74
Location
Sydney, Australia
Format
35mm
Hi guys,
I need to replace my light seal on my F3, however there are no pre-cut kits for F3 available.
Is the back seal of F2 compatiable with F3? I need to replace seal E and F in the picture
 
Probably not. So buy 2 kits. The seals you mentioned look like light trap seals for the grooves where the back closes. they're a bch to replace in any camera. I spent half the day replacing the ones in an F2 today. I HATE re-foaming a camera more than any other repair. Put a couple drops of photo-flo in a bottle cap of water and paint it in the grooves as you foam. 1 inch at a time, Just to help the foam from sticking to the sides. The F3 is a 45 year old camera. if you're lucky you'll be dead before doing THAT chore again. If you're really lucky, you can sit in the dentist chair for a root canal before facing the ordeal again.
 
You can buy sheets of seal material to cut your own from Polar Bear Camera https://polarbearcamera.com/

But there has always been some debate about whether the professional Nikon cameras starting with the F need light seals and the material is simply to act as a dust seal. Sover Wong (F2 specialist) has said the F2 doesn't need foam around the door seal to be light tight. So the value of a seal on an F3 could be to stop water and dust getting in and maybe stop the door rattling?
 
Truth be known, the mirror bumper strip is the important one. The advantage of the foam in the door jam grooves is when you open the back to change film. With new foam, the door will pop open when you actuate the catch. Without foam, you end up having to use fingernails to get it open. Back in the day when there was Kodak infrared film, you'd have wanted the foam, just to be sure there would be no film fogging.
 

I've found alcohol based, non-moisturizing hand sanitizer works very well for getting light seals into those door grooves. The glycerin prevents it from drying too quickly and the alcohol helps it to evaporate after a day or two.
 
Alcohol isn't great for removing glue as most glues are petroleum based, including sticky tapes, so use white spirit. But yes, for applying light seal/dust seal strips a solution of water and washing up liquid or a drop from your bottle of wetting agent is ideal to allow them to slip into place.
 
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