there is a mono bath being sold now that works well. have you looked into that? 1 tray with photochemicals and a water rinse bath for your 2nd bath.
I don't recall Cinestill recommending Df96 for prints -- are you talking about something else? It surely would be possible to work up a monobath for this kind of application, however. Just adding some plain hypo crystals to diluted Dektol would be a start.
Not sure how long it would last in the tray, or what its capacity would be, though.
people use xtol & hc110 prints and coffee & Tylenol for drinking and a headache after too much drinking. who cares what it is recommended for.
Of course it will. RC stains, and it’s ugly.
You'll need to supply evidence of that.
NB23 probably prints as much as 10 of the rest of us combined,, so the chance of him encountering the issue is likely better than most.
Good luck with that.
NB23 probably prints as much as 10 of the rest of us combined,, so the chance of him encountering the issue is likely better than most.
You were fixing older rc paper without using a stop?I certainly have had issues with older RC paper being vulnerable to staining.
You were fixing older rc paper without using a stop?
RC paper isn't invulnerable to less than ideal conditions.
Recommendations usually come from some level of testing, either by the manufacturer or by those who've wanted to characterize a particular product combination. I've developed prints in HC-110, close to fifty years ago, when I had that but didn't have and couldn't readily get Dektol -- with some odd results (using paper that hasn't been available in decades, so I can't even attempt to reproduce what I had then). Nearly any developing agent will develop nearly any exposed halides -- but whether you'll get prints with a tone you like, even development, on-grade contrast, etc. is in question.
An additional concern with monobath is the balance between development and fixing rates. If the fixer works too fast relative to development, you lose your shadows; if the fixer is too slow, you may not realize you haven't fully fixed your print until it starts to print out or stain after sitting in the light a while. Testing would be the minimum I'd suggest if you want to try a monobath for paper negatives and rephotographed prints. I don't know that I wouldn't work -- but I don't know that the results would be desirable, either.
Very few things are.
I'll just go see....
... I managed to make it stain by tearing the piece of paper. It didn't stain on a properly cut edge, because the paper was protected by the plastic coating, but the torn edge was nice and rough which let the developer carry over. I pulled the paper from 2 minutes in dev and placed it immediately, face down, in rapid fix, with no agitation, to make sure I had the maximum carry-over of developer. If the paper had not been torn (if I had cut it with scissors, for instance), it would not have had any noticeable stain.
You'll need to supply evidence of that.
you are suggesting the OP add a little hypo crystals into their developer without the recommendation of the manufacturer ? It is very funny in one post you suggest such things and in another
you warn about doing something that isn't recommended by the manufacturer. my suggestion of using the mono bath was just a suggestion. the OP does not have to do it, or anything suggested in this thread.
Same is true for MGIVFB glossy. That thing is just a pain to tone
you are suggesting the OP add a little hypo crystals into their developer without the recommendation of the manufacturer ? It is very funny in one post you suggest such things and in another
you warn about doing something that isn't recommended by the manufacturer. my suggestion of using the mono bath was just a suggestion. the OP does not have to do it, or anything suggested in this thread.
Yes, I'm suggesting that if the OP thinks a monobath might solve the tray space problem in his Afghan Box Camera build, he start testing by adding some hypo crystals to his print developer. This will a) let him test whether fixing is too fast for development rate (probably correctable by changing dilution level of the developer) and b) let him test whether the result gives a desirable appearance in a final print, stains the print, etc. And it's cheap to try -- hypo crystals can even be sourced locally, in most communities, as chlorine reducer from pool & spa suppliers (and $20 worth will last years in this kind of usage unless you're out with the camera every day).
As Matt pointed out above, my HC-110 monobath from 2003 was the basis for not only Famous Format/New55's first monobath release, but also led them to the "goop" for the New 55 actual pos/neg instant photography material. I doubt Df96 is directly based on my formula (MSDS doesn't show ingredients I'd expect if HC-110 were involved, and buying Kodak product to make a Cinestill product wouldn't be cost effective), but I suspect the renewed interest in monobath in general came from my experiments.
So doesn't it tone, or doesn't it shift color when you tone it? What happens if you chuck it into a selenium toner for a couple of minutes and then bleach back the silver?
How's this relevant? Think about the statement "if it doesn't tone, it doesn't stain". It's as full of holes as a particularly airy Swiss cheese.
I have been happy with toning NB23 in both Sepia (bleach and redevelop) toner and brown toner
Quote of the day! (No moderator editing allowed!)
I could probably have still edited it even if I wasn't a moderator.
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