What are you wanting to do with the final pictures? When I travel, I always take a DSLR and usually a medium format or larger film camera. I shoot lots of landscapes, which in my opinion, often benefit from a larger and sharper prints. With 35mm, 8x12 is the usually largest I can print up to and be happy with the results, provided I’m not wanting grain in my photos. And even to go that big, you pretty much need everything else to go right. Most shots made on 135 film top out at around 5x7 before they get grainy. It’s just not a serious format in my opinion. 135 is great for having fun and posting photos to the internet. But I rarely print from it.
But that’s just me. Everyone is different. If I shot more street photography, I’m sure I’d feel differently, as grain usually isn’t as big of an issue for that as it is for most landscapes. Since you already own a F5, I presume you have experience with it and know what it’s capable of. If that’s good enough for you, then no reason to spend more on another, heavier camera. But for me, I’ve just been disappointed too many times from my 135 cameras in the past to consider them a serious format.
The first link isn’t loading for me. So I have no idea what that is. But remember, computer screens run at 72ppi, and your brain knows this and compensates for it. Prints are usually around 300dpi. So images tend to appear sharper on a screen than they do on print when viewed at the exact same size and resolution. In other words, don’t believe everything you see online, even if they are being completely honest.Thanks for the response!
This was my way of thinking and is precisely why I shoot 5x4 for landscapes here in England. However, I looked at those links, and saw the insane amount of detail, and the fairly huge sizes McCurry has printed at, and suddenly the decision was not so clear after all. I mean, you can see every tiny detail of her skin in that portrait!
I am trying to setup a darkroom, so B&W would be printed optically. The rest would be scanned and printed. I'd like to print up to the sort of size you can see in the link to the gallery display.
I've traveled to Europe, around the US, and to Mexico with medium format gear (primarily a Rolleiflex). It's a no-brainer to me. Unless your medium format camera is a Fuji GX680 or some such that's not hand-holdable, there's no real good reason not to. I'm about to go back to Mexico, and bring an RZ67 with me this time.
The first link isn’t loading for me. So I have no idea what that is. But remember, computer screens run at 72ppi, and your brain knows this and compensates for it. Prints are usually around 300dpi. So images tend to appear sharper on a screen than they do on print when viewed at the exact same size and resolution. In other words, don’t believe everything you see online, even if they are being completely honest.
The second is of course a famous photo that I’m well familiar with (Afghan Girl with Green Eyes). It was shot on Kodachrome 64, which is one of the sharpest and finest grain films ever made. Unfortunately, that film hasn’t been around in a long time. Beyond that, it’s a slide film which means it was likely printed with cibachrome, which also isn’t available. Furthermore, it’s of a person’s face. When viewing a face, you don’t get up close to look at the details. What are you gonna see? Pores? With a landscape, you likely will want to get up close and look at the fine details. Trees, rocks, wildlife... all of that stuff invites closer inspection. That photo is pretty much the best case scenario to show off how a 35mm shot can be blown up. Its not a good example to go by. It’s technical perfection every step of the way on an image that doesn’t require much to look good. It also isn't likely made through a process or with tools available to you in today’s world. You have to consider what your results will look like. Not what someone else’s would.
But, if you want, take your best 35mm film and lens out and shoot a couple of test shots and see what kind of results you can get before you leave on your trip. If they look good enough, it would be a lot cheaper and more convenient to carry a couple of 35mm’s instead of a heavy medium format.
There isn't that much fine detail to speak of — it is 35mm, and shows. The image has always looked a bit soft (except the eyes), but fast-forward to latter-day reproductions that have created a travesty of the enduringly simple yet powerful image — sharpening, HDR, saturation adjustment, hue, re-colouring ... whatever else! McCurry himself has also notably tweaked the image (among others that has brought him both scorn and derision for his blatantly obvious digital tweaks).Even if there's been computer higgeryjiggery involved, there has to be that detail there to start with.
I'll disagree on one point. While K64 was indeed sharp...it is no where near the finest grain film. K64 had a grain RMS of 11. Provia 100F is at 8. Astia 100F is at 7. The old Ektachrome 100 is around 8 as well. K64 is beautiful...but it isnt a fine grain film by modern standards.
Great that you can get the results you are happy with from the gear you carry. That's the important thing. To me, having the bigger negative means I can get a smoother, richer tonal range than I can from 35mm. Sometimes pore-counting isn't what I want to be doing.I was just reviewing a few photos I took in Arizona and throught out Death Valley. I used a Bessa R2a, 35 f1.7 Ultron, and Fuji Astia 100F. Scanned at 4000 ppi on a Nikon 5000. With a tiny bit of sharpening in Lightroom, the 16x24 prints I've produced have a decent enough amount of detail. Grain is visible, but pleasing and natural to the eye.
I now mainly carry around an F5 as well. While 35mm wont match MF, the results with a good scan and proper processing can easily produce prints out to 16x24.
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