Is it possible to fix water-marks?

audungk

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After successful developing of several rolls of tmax and tri-x, i ran into a little problem last night, with delta3200. Developed it in Tmax dev for 8.5 mins, stop, fix for aprox 4 mins, and 4 turns of washing. The first turn was done with some drops of dish-washer liquid in the water. When hung up to dry as normal, but ended up with lots of water-stains(is that a word?) on the film.

Is it possible to fix? Could i soak the film in water with dish-washing liquid, or is it a lost cause?
 

mark

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Just rewash, and I would get a bottle of photoflo. It will last forevern and is without the dyes and perfumes in regular dish soap. You might have to wash for a little longer. Do the ilford wash cycle and you are good to go.
 

drpsilver

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03 Nov 2006

Audungk:

My first question is why are you using dish-washer soap instead of Photo-Flo (or like product). Photo-Flo does not have all the detergents that dish-washer soap does. I would highly recommend that you discontinue using the soap and use Phot-Flo. It's probably cheaper and certianly better for the film.

As for your current problem, you might try to soak the film in water for 5-10 minutes and then 15-30 seconds in Photo-Flo. Let it dry in a dust free (as possible) environment. some of the spots might come out. It really depends on how "glazed" the emulsion has become.

Regards,
Darwin
 

Donald Miller

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I would use a mild citric or acetic acid bath to soak the film. The reason is that what was left in your water marks is undisolved solids in the form of calcium, magnesium and iron. An acid is the best means of bringing these back to a soluble state. After this is done I would do what others have suggested. That is use Photo Flo in distilled water as the final water rinse.
 
OP
OP

audungk

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Thank you all for your replies!

The reason i use dishwasher soap, was mainly because i was reccomended it when i started developing. When using, I am only adding a few drops of it to 1L of rinse water... Have worked perfectly till know, but I will get some photo-flo next time...

Donald: For the acid bath, will Kodak Stop do? Or are there any other easy-to-get solutions here?
 

Donald Miller

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Stop bath or dilute vinegar will work.
 

Jim Noel

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If you switch to Photo Flo, do not get it on your reels. It adheres to the reel and after time, acts as a developer catalyst causing the edges of the film to ge overdeveloped.

A better choice is LFN.
 

MMfoto

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You know I've never been able to get water marks off of the EMULSION side of a negative before, back side no problem. Would these acidic remedies work for either?
 

Tom Stanworth

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Strange things marks. I have a batch of 35mm APX100 which dries with marks of some description on the non emulsion side no matter what I do. All other films come out immaculate and this film (previous orders have not done this) have marks. I don't think in hindsight they are water marks. When I put the negs on the light box as long as you look straight thru the film and not at and angle where you get surface reflections, they are perfectly invisible, appearing to have zero density. However looking at the non emulsion side at an angle to induce relfections, they are incredibly obvious swirls and streaks. Weird!
 

Gay Larson

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Jim Noel said:
If you switch to Photo Flo, do not get it on your reels. It adheres to the reel and after time, acts as a developer catalyst causing the edges of the film to ge overdeveloped.

A better choice is LFN.
Click to expand...

I think that is what happened to me as I added photo flo (a drop) into the can with the reels in it for years. Recently I started having big problems with the film and buildup on the reels so following the advise of several fellow APUG'ers I scrubed the reels with an old toothbrush and vinegar. Now all is well again and I put my photoflo into a tray to soak the film.
 
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