Is it possible to develop 50x60 paper without adequate trays?

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Marco B

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pschauss

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When I was looking for something to wash the electrostatic filter unit on my furnance, I used a large plastic tub about 2x3 feet which I found at my local Ace Hardware store. I believe that it was intended for mixing cement.
 
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Kaboom

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SUCCESSSSSSSS!!!!!!!!
in the end i went with a mix of the Pschauss cement mixer suggestion and the sponges. It turns out i needed about 4 litres of developer to cover the print (this "cement mixer" i got had weird grooves at the bottom, so it takes a lot of liquid for the volume to rise to a useable level. I just mixed a litre of Eukobrom at 1+14 (vs the recommended 1+9) and gave it 3 and a half minutes sponging developer, poured the dev back into a smaller tray (8x10), and repeated the steps for stop and fix. Rinsed the "tray" thoroughly between test strip and final print.

Currently washing in the bathtub for a few hours with the dump-refill routine. Will post pics when its done!!

I must say though that in the end it turned out a bit too dark. I should reduce exposure by around 10 seconds, but i didn't have a chance to print another copy today since i ran out of time and had to pack up.

Very fun and exciting! once again the help provided by this community has proved invaluable.

EDIT: Here's the promised pic. This is also my first go with the wet-sticky watercolor tape, let's see how that goes.

2yjvbz6.jpg
 
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dancqu

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My Likely Senario

One 20x24 tray. Developer and fixer concentration pre-determined
to develop or fix to completion in 6 minutes. Two liters of the very
dilute developer and fixer readied. All chemistry used one-shot.

Pre-wet and empty. With emulsion up pour in the developer.
Constant agitation with a folding of the paper upon itself; back
to front, right to left. Times up dump the developer and pour
in the very dilute fixer. Agitate in the same manor.

The wash sequence. With only one print through the
voluminous very dilute fix wash water changes are few.
With a post fix rinse I've found two still water soaks, the
last over night, to give stain free prints. Porous fiber
sheets, top and bottom, for the soaks. Dan
 

Tom Stanworth

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The one tray technique gives not much room for honing a print or doing multiples without agony. using troughs sounds more practical; however, are you guys all washing the prints in the bath or using some other technique to wash your giant prints?
 

dancqu

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The one tray technique gives not much room for honing
a print or doing multiples without agony. using troughs
sounds more practical; however, are you guys all
washing the prints in the bath or using some
other technique to wash your giant prints?

One tray one print. Prints that large, 20x24, I'd likely
produce in very limited quantity. Two trays make for
some real production. The first tray is used for
processing and the second a hold/soak tray.

For washing the two are used alternately; transfers
are made. Separators and prints are sandwiched for
washing. Two or three soaks with the last over night
will have them clean.

Solution volumes are kept minimal and the chemistry
is used very dilute. Processing times are prolonged
but NO stop is needed as there is no build up of
the carried forward developer. Dan
 

Huub

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Is there a way to develop paper that is significantly bigger than the trays you have?
I just got a dated pack of ilford Ilfobrom in that size for 10€ and i was toying with the idea of making a huge poster of one of my favorite negs. If it isn't possible i'll just cut it up and use smaller sizes, which would be a shame!.
cheers!

Buy a plastic pipe 20 cm wide and 50 cm length with two covers and use this as printing drum. You can also screw 4 small wheels to a plank of sufficienct size to use it as a roller base for the large drum.
 
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