Distance focussing: some options
There are quite a few cameras out there that use a distance scale for focussing. What are your opinions about using a distance scale over more precise methods like rangefinder, slr, and autofocus?
Is it accurate enough?
To answer the second question first: Yes, definitely.
Regarding the first question:
there are at least two types of distance scale focusing:
Some cameras, like my Olympus Trip 35, require you to set the subject distance (guess or measured) before you press the shutter. These cameras don't give you any information about the aperture, setting the distance is all you have. In my experience the results can be superb (unless you've forgotten to set the distance before taking the shot
).
The second kind of camera (those with manual focus primes and rangefinders) allows one to set the distance, as per the distance scale on the lens, but -in addition- has a depth of field scale as well.
Regarding scenics/street photography/architecture, using these two scales you can set the lens to "hyperfocal distance" by placing the infinity symbol against the corresponding f/ number, thus giving you the maximum available depth of field. This works best for higher f/ values (e.g. f/11 and above) and shorter focal length lenses (e.g. 28mm and below). You can then set and forget as everything from about 1.5m to infinity will be in reasonable focus. I use this a lot with my prime slr lenses and rangefinders and, lately, with manual focus "normal" zooms (use hyperfocal distance tables). I find the results excellent!
Again, regarding scenics and the like and using either slr or rangefinder, "focusing" on the subject (split prisms, Fresnel sceens and such) not only wastes time and effort, but also produces inferior results IMO.
However, when taking pics of your favourite girl, she being the main subject, by all means use standard focusing techniques and make sure she (her eyes
) is sharply focused, the rest of the scene can look after itself.