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Is arista really a learning film?

redbandit

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Should arista film really be considered a film for learning on? Its ISO speed for the 400 version, raises the question to me.


With delta 400, once you get it it developed, and run a print its alot easier to go "yowza, i shoulda dropped the shutter speed by one notch.."
 
Anything can be classified for "learning" as long as it's cheap. Pentax K1000 back in the days, Arista film and paper, Kentmere paper as well. Simply because when learning, one will inevitably make mistakes. Actual sensitivity of Arista 400 is sort of well known by now.
 
what do you expect to learn?
 
Anytime I try a new or new to me film, it's a learning film as far as learning its characteristics, etc. But what if you stick with this one film? Is it still a learning film? The first film I learnt photography on was TMAX 100. Apparently, that is not a good film to learn with... I learnt to use it, and after a year or so, switched to HP5 because I preferred its look. I had to learn how to use it, too. I have heard of people new to large format, use x-ray film to learn how to use the camera, though.
 
"learning" implies something that I suppose was not meant to be part of the question.

If "learning" is to apply in a sense of material economy, then the cheapest one would be it, but these days there is only expensive and more expensive. At the same time, cheapest is possibly inherently inferior, and might be inconsistent in batch to batch quality. If so, then it's not good for learning irrespective of cost.

There are a few brand names that fall into a good / consistent quality and are at lower end of cost, and that would likely the good choice for "learning". Arista covers general quality consistency, so if price is right, it is one to consider.

Delta 400 is a fine film, but there is nothing one cannot learn with Arista, and several others much below Delta cost..
 
I'd learn on the film I'm interested in using long term. That way you get to know its features. Other than initial savings, what's the point learning one film and then switching to another?
 
Looking at just the films actual "estimated ISO range" for the arista 400, it can be rather impolite about light contrast in a scene. If one is learning film, does one want a film that can go from acceptable, to blown highlights simply by rotating the camera on the tripod 2mm in either direction? Same for shadow?
 
redbandit said:
If one is learning film, does one want a film that can go from acceptable, to blown highlights simply by rotating the camera on the tripod 2mm in either direction? Same for shadow?
Click to expand...

No, but then again, I'm not familiar with any modern B&W film in current production that does this, so you should be safe on this front.
 

It really depends on the complexity of the lighting & how you choose to meter.....then how you subsequently process the film. As for the 2mm.... what's the meter reading?...& what kind of meter is it?
IMO, you need to do some work to understand and get the best results from any film/developer combo....& subsequently printing from those negatives.
 
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Current Aritsta is rebranded Foma, it is bought in bulk and reloaded by Freestyle or custom finished by Foma for Freestyle over the years both scenarios have been reported. I shoot Foma action 400 and at times 200 in 4X6 and 120. The 400 tends to be at it's best when it is shot at ISO 200 or 250, there are only a few developers that allow for a ISO of 400. It is a bit grainy when compared with TriX or HP5, when shot at lower ISO it is easy to overdevelop and blow out the high lights. Unlike Kentmeyer and Kodak Double X movie film it does a have antihalogen layer and is not prone to flare. The 200 is a hybrid, made with traditionally and t grain. In my experience shoots pretty close box speed. I have not shot much of the 100, ok film but closer to ISO 50 than 100. All three are fine films to learn on, I can shoot 2 rolls of action pan for every roll of Tmax 400, allows me to experiment with differnt ISO and developes.
 
The first thing to learn is how to set the meter based on the film.
 

Wow!! Drop this film immediately, preferably down the nearest drain and use D400. It is British after all. Reliable, steadfast and I am convinced its favourite drink would be tea should it ever become human

pentaxuser
 
pentaxuser said:
Wow!! Drop this film immediately, preferably down the nearest drain and use D400. It is British after all. Reliable, steadfast and I am convinced its favourite drink would be tea should it ever become human

pentaxuser
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Pity......
 
I remember when Arista was Ilford film. Freestyle reps would tell you verbally what their stuff was but never in writing.
 
If you are referring to Arista EDU Ultra film (rebadged Foma), I am constantly learning. I've been shooting it for several years in 120 and LF sizes and am constantly learning new things about it. I love it for silver gel prints, but have been re learning it for alt printing, VDB, salted paper, kalitype, and carbon transfer. Each type of method requires slightly different exposure and development parameters. You should be learning something new every day anyway, no matter what you are doing.
 
Bill Burk said:
I remember when Arista was Ilford film. Freestyle reps would tell you verbally what their stuff was but never in writing.
Click to expand...

Freestyle also sold Iford Gallerie under their name.
Freestyle have also marketed Kentmere products .
The only film that stood out, above others, to me was Ilford Delta 100 but at 100 asa its a little limiting with 35mm.
Still we are better off sticking with one film and film speed until we learn what and wont it will produce.
 

100 asa may have its limits, but it sure shines for enlargements compared to faster films
 
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Arista is considered a "student" film. Assuming that students don't have a lot of money for shooting their assignments on etc. I remember being a student and having to choose between eating or getting my assignments done. As far as a film goes, it's fine. All of the arista/foma film is fine film if it meets your creative vision, even if it isn't made in Great Britain.

Happy shooting.

D.
 
If you're just learning darkroom work such as how to load a reel in the dark, you might as well use the cheapest film available. Arista is perfect for that.

I think some of posts in this thread assume too much skill, for those just learning film photography getting an image, any image, is a major success; never mind mastering the fine intricacies of metering for shadow detail.
 
I have used it MOST with my canon FTB. nice little spot meter. but here is the thing.

I can put a sheet of paper up, on a fence post in full light. take my meter reading on the left most edge of the paper, rotate the tripod so the spot meter circle is on the OTHER edge.

SECOND shot will have horrid over exposure/blown highlights. Even though the meter needle never changed between edges.

Ive shot perhaps 8 rolls of arista 400 iso 120 film... of the 4 that survived the developing process of learning roll film. THey were even worse.

I have only run 1 roll of shangai gp3 220.. i only had 5 images, the start and end, that came out clear/partial image.
I have more actual negatives on that roll of shanghai gp3, then those 4 rolls of arista iso 400 120 COMBINED
 

Camera malfunction.

Or, more likely: a compounding of several forms of user error.
 
Bill Burk said:
I remember when Arista was Ilford film. Freestyle reps would tell you verbally what their stuff was but never in writing.
Click to expand...

I still have a couple of rolls of Arista Premium (35mm) in the fridge. It's marked "made in Japan" can you guess what it really is? Hint, development times and reciprocity characteristics are identical to a certain "much missed" 100 speed film that was re released with a new emulsion.
 

If you are shooting with a spot meter and your target is a white sheet of paper you are shoot the paper which should be bright white Zone 8 or 9 at middle gray zone V. No matter what part of the paper you are metering the spot meter is reading middle gray. What I recommend is that you learn how to test your film and developer combination. Get a copy of The Zone System for 35mm Photographers, it might be very helpful. I use Foma which is Artista and get consistent negatives, I shoot with many different 35mm cameras and 3 MF cameras, but I had to test each camera as meters and shutters might be off. The other issue could be the shutter of you Canon is really off.
 
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