IR film in an F6? + other questions

I'm looking to shoot some Efke IR820 in my F6, but I heard that the imprinting screwed with IR film.

Also, does IR820 need to be loaded in total darkness like HIE did? And what speed should I rate it at with a R25? and an R72?

You can defnitely use IR820 in an F6. Nikon's response: http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/11942

IR820 does NOT need to be loaded in total darkness. I do it in the shade of my body all the time, even when standing in bright sunlight.

I rate it about ISO 6 with an R72 filter. I don't know what it would be with an R25 but the IR effects would be much less than with the 72 because it lets much more visible light in.

I am experimenting with Efke Aura 820 (in 120 format), though today it is Ilford's SFX 200 at EI12 and EI6. Lots and lots of bracketing will determine the best exposure with an R72 (deep red) filter; R25 will not deliver any noticeable IR effect. Keep notes as you make exposures as these will be invaluable. Bright light, not overcast, will give the best IR effect but you will need to be creative with composition to find a balanced scene. Isolated trees on hills, homes in grassy fields etc all work very well.

olwick said:

You can defnitely use IR820 in an F6. Nikon's response: http://support.nikonusa.com/app/answers/detail/a_id/11942

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That's good to know. Even if it were an issue, the data imprinting referred to by the OP can be disabled so it needn't be a problem anyway.

IR820 does NOT need to be loaded in total darkness. I do it in the shade of my body all the time, even when standing in bright sunlight.

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The data sheet for this film (actually, the MACO equivalent, which is linked from the IR820 page at FreestylePhoto) says to load 35mm IR820 in complete darkness and 120 film in subdued light. But in my experience that is a PITA, so I'm tempted to try it as you've done to see if that works for me.

I rate it about ISO 6 with an R72 filter. I don't know what it would be with an R25 but the IR effects would be much less than with the 72 because it lets much more visible light in.

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For what it's worth, I use ISO more like 2 or 3 with an R72. I find it's better to err on the side of overexposure. Some people even use ISO 1 for this combination.

The film view window is more of a threat to ruining IR film (especially Efke's). You can cover it with adhesive flashing aluminium tape from hardware stores.
Overexposure of an IR film will bleach out detail, where a good exposure will provide detail in highlights without blowing. There are some excellent examples of this on the web that can form part of valuable rungs in the ladder of learning to master IR film. But there is no substitute for bracketing and recording notes as to what you are doing, what you were viewing, lighting conditions etc.