I know it does for me because I would never make phone calls or surf the web on my Sekonic L-398 Studio Deluxe.
Maybe I should develop my film in a public library so I can re-read "War and Peace" while I develop my negs. You make it sound like you have a travel trailer that follows you around filled with all sorts of goodies that haven't much to do with checking the light and then shooting the photo. I like to travel light. I don't need to write down every exposure any more than I need to take selfies with hungry bears behind me. I believe in the lean-and-mean approach. But that might not work for you. Frankly, after a half century I don't really have much use for a light meter. I can pretty much figure out the exposure by eyeballing the scene. But you need to do what works for you.
Awesome meter.
It's so nice to push a button, read an f/stop and shoot.
I've had an L308S for years, and it's basically not too bad. As a flash meter I found it OK with monolights, but cannot meter for automatic flash or shorter flash durations than full power. As soon as the flash starts getting some speed, as in half or quarter or more power, the meter acts as if it were going blind. Further, mine also does not have any low-light sensitivity below EV1 or so, and will simply give an error when the light gets that low. That doesn't make sense to me, as my Nikon F2S, my Luna-Pro, and my SBC are all much older and can meter way below where the 308 has stopped. This is not to say any meter doesn't loose some serious accuracy when light gets low like that. But the 308 just cuts slap off. I wouldn't pay any $200 for one. I only paid a hundred new maybe in 2007 or 08 or so.
It's not one of the new ones. I bought it 30+ years ago as a starving student.
Against the KM it's about one-third of a stop off (low) in bright light, but eerily dead-on at the bottom of it's design range in dim light where these models are usually fairly constrained. I think it's a bit of an individual anomaly in that regard.
That guy and I have been through a lot together. I only purchased the KM more recently because I needed a flash meter in a reliable but basic instrument. And because the KM VF offers shutter speed resolutions of one-third of a stop instead of only full stops like the earlier IVF model. Makes using it with my Graphex and Compur-Press shutters very straightforward.
Konica-Minolta VF meters survive today as identical Kenko KFM-1100 models, still currently available. Even the accessories are interchangeable. They're quite good in my experience.
Ken
You don't have the set of slides? You're missing out. Each slide comes with an ASA and tells you the shutter speed. Then the needle reads out the f/stop.
How I miss my Sekonic L-398. I had it for 30+ years and depended on it for nearly everything. Unfortunately, it was clipped to my Mamiya 6, and was stolen last summer. I haven't replaced it yet, I have a Minolta Auto Meter IIIF and Soligor Spot Sensor(zone system modified), but they aren't as handy as the Sekonic plus the Minolta uses expensive batteries(that die unexpectedly, ugh).
Up to the point of buying the L-308s I had used a couple of iPhone meter apps and found most of them adequate, but not great.* They got the job done and they were convenient. However, they were not always accurate under all conditions and you had to learn how to extrapolate from what it tells you, based on where you are aiming it, etc. Once I had a proper meter in my hand, precision and accuracy were once again part of my metering toolkit. Where the iPhone meters might get you close enough for a reasonable exposure most of the time, a dedicated meter will give you precise readings 100% of the time and show you how to better your understanding of light and how to measure it right, to do what you want.
My only criticism of the Sekonic L-308s is that the case gives the impression that it's a fairly fragile device - lets just say that I am careful with it in daily use and wouldn't want to be dropping it in the sidewalk or banging it hard against a brick wall. IE: keep it in its faux leather holster when not in use. Otherwise, it's a precision tool that's proven it's worth.
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