Interested in powder chems ..

bessa_L_R3a · May 27, 2008

Hi,

Is there such thing as powder developer and powder fixer? I want to be able to travel with all my negative processing equipment and powder would be much easier, but if fixer can't be obtained in powder form then I might as well keep on using HC 110 ...

David Brown · May 27, 2008

bessa_L_R3a said:
Is there such thing as powder developer and powder fixer? ...

Yes. Both D-76 and ID-11 are powders, as is Microdol. (and likely others)

Kodak "fixer" is powder.

MattKing · May 27, 2008

One thing to remember though is that the powders don't remain homogenous in the package. The component parts tend to be unevenly distributed through the package.

This means that you cannot reliably mix up just a portion of the powder. You should mix up a whole package at a time.

The mixing instructions also tend to require hotter water to mix, and then a cool-down before use.

If you foresee that your travels will include long stops in various places, it may make sense to take powdered chemistry, and develop in batches. If, however you are hoping to develop small amounts of film on a daily or quite frequent basis in lots of different locations, liquid chemistry may make more sense.

Hope this helps.

Matt

pwitkop · May 27, 2008

Just be wary of traveling by air with white power (most dry photo chemistry is), in your luggage. If flying I'd probably only try to fly with chems in unopened manufacturer's packaging, and put it in a checked bag rather than carry it on. David's suggestions are great, to be on the safe side, I might even stick with Kodak (being readily reconisable brand name for baggage screeners). HCA is ussually dry (at least kodak's), the only chemical I'm not sure I've ever seen dry is stop bath, but you can always just use a water rinse, or use diluted white vinigar which you could get just about anywhere when you get to your location.

Peter

yellowcat · May 27, 2008

pwitkop said:
I've ever seen dry is stop bath
Peter

You could use citric acid.

Jim Noel · May 27, 2008

"One thing to remember though is that the powders don't remain homogenous in the package. The component parts tend to be unevenly distributed through the package.

This means that you cannot reliably mix up just a portion of the powder. You should mix up a whole package at a time."

For over 25 years I have mixed chemistry from the package by the spoonful with no problems. I mix at the desired dilution and at room temperature. If traveling with powdered chemicals I just invert the package several times to be sure there is little if any settlement.
At home I don't even bother with this. I have used D-6, Dektol, LPD, Selectol, Selectol Soft and Kodak fixer among others.

dancqu · May 27, 2008

bessa_L_R3a said:
Hi,
Is there such thing as powder developer and powder fixer?

No problem. For film and even paper only three chemicals
are needed. For the developer carry a bottle of metol and
a bottle of sodium sulfite. For the film and paper fixer
carry a bottle of sodium thiosulfate.

The developer is D-23 and can be used very dilute
one-shot. Slow with paper but does make good
prints. The fixer can also be used very dilute
one-shot.

So, three bottles of powder chemicals. Dan

Tom Hoskinson · May 28, 2008

yellowcat said:
You could use citric acid.

Or you can use sodium acetate. But a plain water rinse works fine.

fschifano · May 28, 2008

If I remember correctly, Kodak marketed an indicator stop bath years ago in powder form. Was that not sodium acetate, which, when mixed with water yielded acetic acid?

Ian Grant · May 28, 2008

My suggestion is take a different route when travelling. I'd rather carry a small bottle of a liquid developer like Rodinal, and a small bottle of Fixer like Hypam. It saves a lot of bother making up powdered chemicals away from the darkroom, weighs only a little more, once made up you still have to store the powdered dev which rather defeats the whole object of carrying less weight etc. This is what I do when camping, although I now take Pyrocat HD.

Ian

honeydo · May 28, 2008

Yup and its more cost effective. I mix it and use it the next day after it's cooled I didn't heat it the 1st time and it didn't dissolve. I also can't make gravy.........

Paul Howell · May 28, 2008

bessa_L_R3a said:
Hi,

Is there such thing as powder developer and powder fixer? I want to be able to travel with all my negative processing equipment and powder would be much easier, but if fixer can't be obtained in powder form then I might as well keep on using HC 110 ...

Are you traveling by Air, car, train, or ship? The reason I ask, if you are traveling by car or train and have room in your luggage you can take a small electronic scale and bulk chem to mix your own. Mix what you need then dump.

Paul Verizzo · May 28, 2008

MattKing said:
One thing to remember though is that the powders don't remain homogenous in the package. The component parts tend to be unevenly distributed through the package.

This means that you cannot reliably mix up just a portion of the powder. You should mix up a whole package at a time.
Matt

I think this is a myth. Think about it. Kodak does not dump the metol, HQ, and borax into each bag. It's mixed in a huge drum, I would wager, and then is put into packaging. So, right off the git go they are doing on a bigger scale what the home user would do, divving up a batch.

dancqu · May 28, 2008

fschifano said:
If I remember correctly, Kodak marketed an indicator
stop bath years ago in powder form. Was that not
sodium acetate, which, when mixed with water
yielded acetic acid?

Sodium acetate produces an alkaline solution;
ph 9 or a little more. About that of borax.
Likely a good substitute for the latter
in some darkroom chemistry. Dan

Paul Verizzo · May 28, 2008

re Stop Bath

dancqu said:
Sodium acetate produces an alkaline solution;
ph 9 or a little more. About that of borax.
Likely a good substitute for the latter
in some darkroom chemistry. Dan

Use vinegar. KISS. If you have the chems available, citric acid or sodium sulphate work fine, too. I use the latter because I have it as a pool pH reducer, about $2/lb. About 1/4-1/2 tsp in a tray works great. Dump it when done.

KISS

dancqu · May 29, 2008

Paul Verizzo said:
Use vinegar. KISS. If you have the chems available,
citric acid or sodium sulphate work fine, too. I use the
latter because I have it as a pool pH reducer, about $2/lb.

More likely sodium BIsulfate. The sulfate is a near
neutral salt. Bisulfate is quite acidic. Dan

Paul Verizzo · May 29, 2008

dancqu said:
More likely sodium BIsulfate. The sulfate is a near
neutral salt. Bisulfate is quite acidic. Dan

Yes, I stand corrected.

Interested in powder chems ..

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