Installing a Plustek 8200i AI on Catalina

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river878

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Hi -- I just bought a Plustek 8200i AI scanner. My initial research suggested that it would work on OS Catalina.

But now that I have it, I can't even figure out how to install the Silverlight software and/or the drivers. I see the link for the Patch to Catalina. But I need the main software then I can install the patch. They offer the software for Windows--with the patch for OS--but not the software itself: https://plustek.com/usa/support/drivers-and-downloads.html

Does anyone know where I can download the driver? I already am using Catalina---maybe it works on earlier version and can be patched to Catalina, but can't be initially ever installed on Catalina?

Also, do i have to install drivers and silverlight separately? Or will the silverlight software contain the drivers to use the scanner? The documentation is very unclear.

Thanks so much for your help!
 
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river878

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^Thanks, but: I don't have a DVD player on my mac and I can't find the "current latest version (SF8.8.0r16)" anywhere on plustek or silverlight's websites site.
 
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river878

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The driver is on the DVD along with Silverfast. Have you tried to install the Windows version then apply the patch?
USB DVD RW's are cheap on ebay.

I can't install a windows program on a mac as mac don't recognize the "*.exe" format. I'd rather return the device than have to then also buy a DVD player. In this day and age if a software is written and then burned onto a CD, it can actually more easily be posted on website and downloaded. Which means, these guys may not be the most up-to-date technology company that I thought they were.... This is very disappointing as I was really looking forward to working with this new piece of equipment today....
 

MattKing

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Plustek do have telephone and email support options, but they are Monday - Friday.
Have you tried the dmg link on that page? It may have both the main software and the patch linked to it.
 
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river878

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Plustek do have telephone and email support options, but they are Monday - Friday.
Have you tried the dmg link on that page? It may have both the main software and the patch linked to it.

Thanks. I just tried that dmg file, but it didn't do anything. I can see the file on my computer now, but there's no application or anything. It looks like it really is only the patch.
 

MattKing

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Ah - you install the demo software, and then use the serial numbers and their registration process to convert it to non-demo.
 
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river878

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shutterfinger--oh my, thank you---that actually worked--I was able to install the software after following the directions on the link you provided I then had to enter the serial number twice then register, then go to a different page, then download the latest software (after downloading the non-latest) then had to enter my serial number for it to be cancelled and re-assigned, then had to enter the new serial number and the software finally opened! Crazy, crazy process, but it all started with the youtube you sent. Thank you so much.

But now the scanner itself doesn't seem to work. I followed the instructions, hit "Quickscan" and nothing. I hit the other button "Intelliscan" and nothing. Its also eerily quiet. when I hit the power button, a green light comes on. So i know its "on". But it makes absolutely no sound. is this how its supposed to be? Or did I receive a broken unit (bought from Adorama)?
 
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river878

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Ah - you install the demo software, and then use the serial numbers and their registration process to convert it to non-demo.

Thanks Matt--I finally got the software to load. The scanner itself doesn't do anything. when the power is on, is supposed to make a sound (like all machines do)? This one doesn't have any sound at all.
 
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river878

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Ah I think I got it now. The instructions said hit the button, and didn't do anything. I realize now its controlled by the software not by the buttons on the machine. Thanks for all the help!
 
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river878

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Scanning yet?

I'm trying! I think I have to learn how best to use it---I've tested some negatives and some slides so far. It doesn't seem like great quality, though---but that could be the quality of the neg/slide, I know. One thing I have noticed is dust/scratches. I thought the Silverfast process was supposed to make those disappear---I still see it. On the software, I'm working through the "Workflowpilot" so its definitely "on", but I still see many imperfections.... Maybe I need more guidance in using it.
 

MattKing

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Ah I think I got it now. The instructions said hit the button, and didn't do anything. I realize now its controlled by the software not by the buttons on the machine. Thanks for all the help!
I'm glad you are making progress.
I'm afraid your post reminds me of one of the sites that chronicle the challenges faced by people who work the support pages.
My favorite example: when instructions tell you that you just need to press "any" key, the support workers get the question: "which one is the 'any' key?"
If you are extremely familiar with how something works, it is very difficult to construct something that will be responsive to the issues encountered by those who are not familiar with how something works, and who may have expectations that are difficult to fulfill.
I truly enjoy helping people figure out stuff. I am continually frustrated by how difficult it is to do this over the internet.
 

MattKing

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I'm trying! I think I have to learn how best to use it---I've tested some negatives and some slides so far. It doesn't seem like great quality, though---but that could be the quality of the neg/slide, I know. One thing I have noticed is dust/scratches. I thought the Silverfast process was supposed to make those disappear---I still see it. On the software, I'm working through the "Workflowpilot" so its definitely "on", but I still see many imperfections.... Maybe I need more guidance in using it.
What you really need is to work through this, encounter difficulties, experiment with potential solutions, and learn how to get better results.
It is not easy, but it can become rewarding.
As for dust and scratches, what films are you scanning. Some will permit use of the extra tools available to deal with dust and scratches (which need to be turned on) while others do not.
The big thing to understand is that you will not get perfect results automatically.
 
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river878

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I'm glad you are making progress.
I'm afraid your post reminds me of one of the sites that chronicle the challenges faced by people who work the support pages....
I truly enjoy helping people figure out stuff. I am continually frustrated by how difficult it is to do this over the internet.

I appreciate all the help, thank you!
 

shutterfinger

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Scanning is like photography, it has a learning curve. I'm a Windows user and currently have Win 10 Pro. I learned to scan on Silverfast Ai 6 on Win XP with a Microtek 8700 Pro scanner. The scanner has little to do with it, the software on the other hand manipulates the scanner's abilities and sometimes exceeds the scanners limits. Software has image editing built into it for faster desktop through put.
The optical limit of the 8200 is 7200 dpi. Scanning above that limit is software interpolation which is better done in post processing. 48 bit RGB is 16 bits per color, Red, Green,Blue, the current limit.
I learned by choosing a know good negative that was correctly exposed and developed, made a default scan at software settings at 600dpi which was good enough for comparison.
Next I adjusted one control by 10%, made a scan, compared to the base scan then repeated until noticeable deterioration was seen then backed off in small increments until the deterioration was gone and noted the amount of the adjustment.
I reset that control to neutral starting point then repeated the process with the next control. Once I had worked through all controls singularly I started adjusting them in pairs then in 3's.
A preview may show a good image but the actual scan may be bad.
The left edge of the histogram is 0 for black with no detail, the right edge is 255 for white with no detail. Setting the Black and White points for each negative/chrome will give you the most detail from the image, adjust for best image in post.
The optical limit of the scanner gives you the most to work with and can be downsized in post. A lower resolution scan upsized will not be as good as the optical limit scan.
Digital Ice/Dust and Scratch removal only works with color materials. The best dust and scratch removal is careful handling and a thorough cleaning just before scanning. I use a fine camel hair brush and a heavyweight microfiber lens cleaning cloth.

Scan for the most detail from the media, adjust in post for best image.
 
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river878

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What you really need is to work through this, encounter difficulties, experiment with potential solutions, and learn how to get better results.
It is not easy, but it can become rewarding.
As for dust and scratches, what films are you scanning. Some will permit use of the extra tools available to deal with dust and scratches (which need to be turned on) while others do not.
The big thing to understand is that you will not get perfect results automatically.

Yes, I will pick this back up tomorrow night and spend more time on it, learning, and hopefully getting better. Thus far, I've scanned some Ektachrome and some fuji (I have idea--which fujifilm it was---as it was 20 years ago and I rarely used Fuji---mostly preferring Kodak) so I just picked the one that made the image look best in the preview. But my main project---for which I bought the scanner--is to scan all the negatives from a particular project I did 30 years ago---and I have yet to dig up the negatives, but they were on either TMAX or Ilford--I'll know as soon as I find them. (They're not lost, they're just in one of numerous boxes!)
 
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river878

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Joined
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Messages
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Location
Cleveland
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Scanning is like photography, it has a learning curve. I'm a Windows user and currently have Win 10 Pro. I learned to scan on Silverfast Ai 6 on Win XP with a Microtek 8700 Pro scanner. The scanner has little to do with it, the software on the other hand manipulates the scanner's abilities and sometimes exceeds the scanners limits. Software has image editing built into it for faster desktop through put.
The optical limit of the 8200 is 7200 dpi. Scanning above that limit is software interpolation which is better done in post processing. 48 bit RGB is 16 bits per color, Red, Green,Blue, the current limit.
I learned by choosing a know good negative that was correctly exposed and developed, made a default scan at software settings at 600dpi which was good enough for comparison.
Next I adjusted one control by 10%, made a scan, compared to the base scan then repeated until noticeable deterioration was seen then backed off in small increments until the deterioration was gone and noted the amount of the adjustment.
I reset that control to neutral starting point then repeated the process with the next control. Once I had worked through all controls singularly I started adjusting them in pairs then in 3's.
A preview may show a good image but the actual scan may be bad.
The left edge of the histogram is 0 for black with no detail, the right edge is 255 for white with no detail. Setting the Black and White points for each negative/chrome will give you the most detail from the image, adjust for best image in post.
The optical limit of the scanner gives you the most to work with and can be downsized in post. A lower resolution scan upsized will not be as good as the optical limit scan.
Digital Ice/Dust and Scratch removal only works with color materials. The best dust and scratch removal is careful handling and a thorough cleaning just before scanning. I use a fine camel hair brush and a heavyweight microfiber lens cleaning cloth.

Scan for the most detail from the media, adjust in post for best image.

Great advice thank you. THIS really concerns me: "Digital Ice/Dust and Scratch removal only works with color materials." I was counting on this technology! The project I'm working on -- for which I bought the scanner -- is 90% black and white and I know there are some scratches on the negatives!
 

MattKing

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But my main project---for which I bought the scanner--is to scan all the negatives from a particular project I did 30 years ago---and I have yet to dig up the negatives, but they were on either TMAX or Ilford--I'll know as soon as I find them. (They're not lost, they're just in one of numerous boxes!)
A bit of bad news - the anti-dust and anti-scratch tools probably won't work with standard black and white films.
Pay close attention to humidity, static and enhanced cleaning techniques.
And get really good with the Clone and Heal tools!
 
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river878

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"The best dust and scratch removal is careful handling"

I had bought some nylon gloves (from Adorama) when I bought the scanner. Should I have gotten the cotton ones instead?
 
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river878

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A bit of bad news - the anti-dust and anti-scratch tools probably won't work with standard black and white films.
Pay close attention to humidity, static and enhanced cleaning techniques.
And get really good with the Clone and Heal tools!

Clone and Heal---those are in Lightroom, no? I do all post in Photoshop -- would that be equivalent? or should I learn Lightroom?
 

shutterfinger

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Learn to love that clone stamp tool (in PS) !
I have a Plustek 7200 and upgraded to a 7600i when the 7200 would no longer run on the newer version of Windows. I still only have Silverfast AI 6 which does not run on Win10. Vuescan has a driver for the 7600 but not the version of the 7200 I have.
I occasionally blow out the scanner with caned air while holding the doors on the scanner open.
Software updates/upgrades are a PITA.
 
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