Infrared goggles for darkroom

[drgoose]

Hello everyone, I am relatively new to the forum and have found a wealth of info. I have recently gotten back into the dark room and yesterday I ran into an article regarding developing by inspection using first a green light but then ran into a reference abouth Kenneth Lee using infrared goggles for this. The model that he recomends (ATN viper http://www.atncorp.com/atn-nightvision-international-viper-goggles) is aprox 300 dlls. Has anyone tried a cheaper model of goggles for darkroom use. I would like to use them for film loading into film holders and into developing tanks but also to help my son (14 yrs), who has some fine motor skill issues, be able to load film into reels under direct vision.

Any help appreciated.

Joaquin Barbara

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I've also looked into this as a way to develop by inspection. That review on the atn vipers is a few years old now but it's odd the price has stayed up. More recent generation goggles are even more expensive. I considered also the toy ir googles too, I think they were made by jacks pacific or so. I could not find any reviews in regards to the close up performance of them as close focusing ability of ir goggles would be very important for darkroom use. Also I was unsure of how well they would seal off light from the eyepiece. They were around $50 or so I think. Hopefully people who know more about this subject can chime in.

 

[Bill Burk]

Hi Joaquin,

I can't tell you about cheaper units, but I use the ATN Viper, it's a fair price to pay for something that has been so useful. The fun of watching sheet film develop is priceless. It's as much fun as watching prints come up in the tray, only better because your negative is the beginning of so many future prints...

Close focusing is awesome though I tend to set it at the working distance and move in and out (because my hands are wet).

The light from the eyepiece does not cause me any problems, it has a relatively large rubber eyecup.

Looks like Cabela's has them on sale for 199

I tested it with TMY2 and found 15 minutes was safe - right out of the box. But I wanted to have more safety so I put two sheets of film* over the red light on top to give me expected 45 minutes safety developing film in the tray. I try not to stare right at the film or the shiny sink, doing all this helps keep the green light fairly dim during operation too, which might account for why the eypiece doesn't fog my film in practice.

(*I can dig out the density later if anyone is interested, but note... you can't use E6 slides to dim the light, IR goes right through 20 slides and still the light shines through)

 

[StoneNYC]

Hi Joaquin,

I can't tell you about cheaper units, but I use the ATN Viper, it's a fair price to pay for something that has been so useful. The fun of watching sheet film develop is priceless. It's as much fun as watching prints come up in the tray, only better because your negative is the beginning of so many future prints...

Close focusing is awesome though I tend to set it at the working distance and move in and out (because my hands are wet).

The light from the eyepiece does not cause me any problems, it has a relatively large rubber eyecup.

Looks like Cabela's has them on sale for 199

I tested it with TMY2 and found 15 minutes was safe - right out of the box. But I wanted to have more safety so I put two sheets of film* over the red light on top to give me expected 45 minutes safety developing film in the tray. I try not to stare right at the film or the shiny sink, doing all this helps keep the green light fairly dim during operation too, which might account for why the eypiece doesn't fog my film in practice.

(*I can dig out the density later if anyone is interested, but note... you can't use E6 slides to dim the light, IR goes right through 20 slides and still the light shines through)

And don't use them with IR film!

What about Acros100?

 

[Bill Burk]

You got that right. And I wouldn't use it for films with speeds higher than 400 without testing.

I only tested TMY2, and I think that maybe TMY2 drops-off in sensitivity right near the end of visible red.

I can't say I've tested other films, though I have used the viewer for everything.

But films with extended red sensitivity, possibly even Technical Pan, might get fogged by it...

 

[David Brown]

Search for "IR goggles" on this forum and you'll get several threads. Lots of info and experiences.

 

[resummerfield]

I use an unbranded IR monocle that I”ve had several years, and it works great for loading film holders and developing film!

The IR light source that came with the monocle was similar to a narrow-beam flashlight, and was mounted on the head strap with the monocle. I removed this IR flashlight from the head strap. To illuminate my darkroom with IR light, I mounted a small 87C gelatin IR filter in a cardboard frame, and inserted this into a Kodak safelight with a low-watt bulb.

This “improvement” floods the entire darkroom with light, as opposed to the original “IR flashlight” light source that had a very narrow beam. I think it makes working under IR easier, and I haven’t noticed any problems with ISO 400 film exposed to this IR safe light for over 10 minutes.

 

[Bill Burk]

resummerfield,

That sounds great. For those who consider getting the goggles and making an IR safelight "floodlight," the ATN-Viper works in the "near" infrared. You can see the red from the LED, though I am sure it is bad to stare at. Some of the "real" infrared LED's I picked up at Radio Shack, designed for remote controls are just barely visible as a dot on the screen. So check before you buy a whole bunch of LED's

 

[Gerald C Koch]

After over 60 years working in the darkroom I have never felt the need to use IR goggles. I have even developed film by inspection with the conventional method using a green safelight. Before you invest I would find someone who would lend you a pair so you can see if they are useful for you.

BTW, development by inspection requires experience to do correctly. The time/temperature method is more accurate, produces more consistent results, and is easier to do.

 

[Bill Burk]

Gerald's right, in the sense that an IR viewer is not a necessary piece of equipment.

I actually only use it some of the time when spooling film for tank development, because spooling is easier to do by feel.

If you are developing in tanks, there isn't that much added value because most tank processing can take place in lighted rooms.

I tray develop by time and temperature, so I'm not proposing development by inspection. But I find having visual feedback helps me avoid mistakes (like 13 minutes in the stop bath) and I can perform more complex procedures (like sensitometer exposures and loading Grafmatics) more efficiently.

 

[juan]

Some films have a red base - old TMX comes to mind. You can't see development on these films, though for loading film IR would be fine.

 

[fotch]

It would be nice to have but not $300+ nice.

 

[rmann]

I have a Viper also, I highly recommend them.

I think the head gear is important, it needs to fit correctly. The set on my Viper is OK, but takes a little time to get it adjusted. The next IR viewer I get I would be looking at a better head gear arrangement, it would be great if you could flip it up easily for using both eyes when the lights are on.

 

[sun of sand]

I use a pair of the toy Jakks? goggles
I epoxied a +4 diopter over the lens and that brings the focus to around 7-10 inches which i find perfect for film loading and developing
Left eye cover I removed so I can check time with a watch during development

Loading film is fast and nearly carefree
Do I daydream about a set of 200-400 IR goggles? not once

 

[Newt_on_Swings]

I use a pair of the toy Jakks? goggles
I epoxied a +4 diopter over the lens and that brings the focus to around 7-10 inches which i find perfect for film loading and developing
Left eye cover I removed so I can check time with a watch during development

Loading film is fast and nearly carefree
Do I daydream about a set of 200-400 IR goggles? not once

That's a really neat solution and answered my questions about the jakks googles setup. Would you please post a picture of your modifications if you have some time? Also how is the weight on your head and neck with this setup? The jakks toy seems much longer than the viper, plus more battery weight too right? Thanks.

 

[Shootar401]

I use a PVS-14 moncoular I bought while doing some contracting work overseas. It's really overkill for the darkroom, I had a new tube installed last year since the original one had some burn in from being mounted behind a illuminated rifle scope. It's a gen-3 tube and is crystal clear when I use the IR illuminator. I've been using this combo for 2 years now and it works great. I lost the head mount that came with the unit so I have it attached to a helmet which causes some neck pain when looking down into trays during a session.

I'll post some pics when I get home.

 

[Shootar401]

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I547 using Tapatalk

 

[Ai Print]

I am looking for a good up to date recommendation for a night vision mono or goggle, the much mentioned ATN Viper seems to be no longer. I want to use this for dealing with sheet film, any new ones to look at?

 

[iakustov]

I am looking for a good up to date recommendation for a night vision mono or goggle, the much mentioned ATN Viper seems to be no longer. I want to use this for dealing with sheet film, any new ones to look at?

I am also looking for a decent option (mainly for contact printing / proofing of colour negative films). Ebay item 174053944837 seems to be a convenient model, but pricy.

 

[bnxvs]

Hello, I use: https://aliexpress.ru/item/32844104981.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.264d33edPCjSsh + VR goggles
+ Android phone