Incredibly basic newbie question about developer

[Candlejack]

So, Im tempted to start contact printing basic black and white film. I believe I can black out my bathroom enough for it. For developing film i find it incredibly easy to do 1 shot mixes of hc110. (Maybe since im just using a syringe, stirring rod and a graduated cylinder)

Is there any sort of equivalent, low take up space paper developer that I can use for 1 session in that simple manner? I already have rapid fixer and assume i can use water as a stop bath.

 

[Donald Qualls]

Most paper developers are used as one-shot after dilution. The classic Dektol, for instance, is mixed from powder to make a stock solution for storage, and then the stock solution is diluted 1+2 or 1+3 just before use, and discarded after the printing session (if a lot of prints are being processed, it may become exhausted and need to be replaced sooner, of course, but a liter of working strength Dektol is good for twenty or so 8x10 prints).

There are commercial paper developers that are sold at higher concentrations, of course -- seems to me someone mentioned one that goes 1+9 for prints just the other day. Kodak used to also sell a developer very similar to Dektol known as MQ Universal in single-use packets; one packet would make enough paper strength developer to fill a 4x6 tray for contact prints, or enough to fill a daylight tank at higher dilution for developing film. Ilford also sells chemicals in what they call "sachets", sized for a single use, mix, use, and toss -- it's an expensive way to work, but everything is fresh every time. I don't know, however, if that includes a print developer.

 

[Donald Qualls]

The bottle of concentrate won't last as long as HC-110 once opened though.

The again, you aren't diluting 1+31, 1+63, or higher, so the same size bottle will get used up faster, too.

 

[Alan9940]

I agree with michael_r recommendation of Ilford MG Developer...doesn't get much easier than that. Use it one shot. and toss.

 

[Nikola Dulgiarov]

I'll second Ilford Multigrade or PF Liquidol. If you'll be printing occasionally over periods of weeks or months, maybe you can decant the concentrate into small bottles (50-100ml) for single-use.

For printing, it's better to use an acid stop bath to quickly and uniformly end development. Acetic acid at 1-2% is the time-tested standard, but I've used citric acid without problems. It's easily available in food grade and you just need to measure out 10-15 g per liter, or about a tablespoon per quart. Discard at the end of your session, as storing citric acid invites bacteria and mold.

 

[Candlejack]

I'll second Ilford Multigrade or PF Liquidol. If you'll be printing occasionally over periods of weeks or months, maybe you can decant the concentrate into small bottles (50-100ml) for single-use.

For printing, it's better to use an acid stop bath to quickly and uniformly end development. Acetic acid at 1-2% is the time-tested standard, but I've used citric acid without problems. It's easily available in food grade and you just need to measure out 10-15 g per liter, or about a tablespoon per quart. Discard at the end of your session, as storing citric acid invites bacteria and mold.

Thank you for the advice, I do have citric acid

 

[removed account4]

sprint systems of photography makes liquid 1:9 everything, can be used 1shot and it works great (you can get it directly from them off their website drop shipped )
if you have an experimental bent you can also dilute DEKTOL print developer or Ansco 130 1:x for X mins
( I usually dilute either of them 1:6 for 6 mins ) negatives come our great. don't believe the hype about golf ball sized grain
it usually suggested by people who have never used this developer/s and just repeat nonsense that others who are in the same boat suggest.
(I've used ansco130 and / or Dektol off and on since the 90s to process film ). and I currently have cylinders of sprint print and film developer
on my shelf so I don't have to mix anything from scratch ( im kind of bored ).

 

[Donald Qualls]

I've used Dektol for negatives as long ago as 1970, and as recently as last year, works fine at 1+9 (but ten minutes will be overdeveloped for some films, possibly under for others -- seems to me the Fortepan/Arista .EDU I did this with in 2020 actually wanted a little less time).