Incredibly basic newbie question about developer

So, Im tempted to start contact printing basic black and white film. I believe I can black out my bathroom enough for it. For developing film i find it incredibly easy to do 1 shot mixes of hc110. (Maybe since im just using a syringe, stirring rod and a graduated cylinder)

Is there any sort of equivalent, low take up space paper developer that I can use for 1 session in that simple manner? I already have rapid fixer and assume i can use water as a stop bath.

Most paper developers are used as one-shot after dilution. The classic Dektol, for instance, is mixed from powder to make a stock solution for storage, and then the stock solution is diluted 1+2 or 1+3 just before use, and discarded after the printing session (if a lot of prints are being processed, it may become exhausted and need to be replaced sooner, of course, but a liter of working strength Dektol is good for twenty or so 8x10 prints).

There are commercial paper developers that are sold at higher concentrations, of course -- seems to me someone mentioned one that goes 1+9 for prints just the other day. Kodak used to also sell a developer very similar to Dektol known as MQ Universal in single-use packets; one packet would make enough paper strength developer to fill a 4x6 tray for contact prints, or enough to fill a daylight tank at higher dilution for developing film. Ilford also sells chemicals in what they call "sachets", sized for a single use, mix, use, and toss -- it's an expensive way to work, but everything is fresh every time. I don't know, however, if that includes a print developer.

michael_r said:

The bottle of concentrate won't last as long as HC-110 once opened though.

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The again, you aren't diluting 1+31, 1+63, or higher, so the same size bottle will get used up faster, too.

I agree with michael_r recommendation of Ilford MG Developer...doesn't get much easier than that. Use it one shot. and toss.

I'll second Ilford Multigrade or PF Liquidol. If you'll be printing occasionally over periods of weeks or months, maybe you can decant the concentrate into small bottles (50-100ml) for single-use.

For printing, it's better to use an acid stop bath to quickly and uniformly end development. Acetic acid at 1-2% is the time-tested standard, but I've used citric acid without problems. It's easily available in food grade and you just need to measure out 10-15 g per liter, or about a tablespoon per quart. Discard at the end of your session, as storing citric acid invites bacteria and mold.

Nikola Dulgiarov said:

I'll second Ilford Multigrade or PF Liquidol. If you'll be printing occasionally over periods of weeks or months, maybe you can decant the concentrate into small bottles (50-100ml) for single-use.

For printing, it's better to use an acid stop bath to quickly and uniformly end development. Acetic acid at 1-2% is the time-tested standard, but I've used citric acid without problems. It's easily available in food grade and you just need to measure out 10-15 g per liter, or about a tablespoon per quart. Discard at the end of your session, as storing citric acid invites bacteria and mold.

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Thank you for the advice, I do have citric acid

sprint systems of photography makes liquid 1:9 everything, can be used 1shot and it works great (you can get it directly from them off their website drop shipped )
if you have an experimental bent you can also dilute DEKTOL print developer or Ansco 130 1:x for X mins
( I usually dilute either of them 1:6 for 6 mins ) negatives come our great. don't believe the hype about golf ball sized grain
it usually suggested by people who have never used this developer/s and just repeat nonsense that others who are in the same boat suggest.
(I've used ansco130 and / or Dektol off and on since the 90s to process film ). and I currently have cylinders of sprint print and film developer
on my shelf so I don't have to mix anything from scratch ( im kind of bored ).

I've used Dektol for negatives as long ago as 1970, and as recently as last year, works fine at 1+9 (but ten minutes will be overdeveloped for some films, possibly under for others -- seems to me the Fortepan/Arista .EDU I did this with in 2020 actually wanted a little less time).