In defence of the OM-2SP

OlyMan · Sep 7, 2017

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Derided by many Zuikoholics as a nowhere-man camera being neither an amateur OMxx or as advanced as an OM3/4, I have to say I've always had an affinity for this camera. Back in the day its Program mode was disliked, with critics saying you don't really have any control over what aperture or speed it was choosing. But that was not really true because unlike cameras such as the Minolta X700, the OM-2SP (and the OM-40) would still operate in Program mode at any aperture, so effectively allowing you to set the minimum aperture. Also I'd wager in at least 75% of my shots I don't really care which speed or aperture it uses so long as it gets the shot, and that's what Program mode was for: no-brainer shooting when all you need to do is get the shot.

These cameras, along with the OM-40 and the original (non-Ti) OM-3 and OM-4 also apparently had infamous battery drain issues. I've never owned an OM-3 or OM-4, but I have owned two OM-40s and two OM-2SPs and have never found them to have a particularly voracious appetite at all. Maybe I got the good ones, or maybe it's because I quickly learned that storing them in their mechanical 1/60th or B position killed the power to all the electronics, which is what I always do. But if that was always the cure then I'm surprised someone else didn't discover it some 20-30 years ahead of me.

Here's a couple of photos I took on some expired Kodakcolor Plus 200 near a local canal. Lens was the pictured Zuiko 50mm F/1.4 high-serial:

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Poisson Du Jour · Sep 7, 2017

Known as a bit of an oddball when it was briefly available here in Australia, and effectively passed over for what was then the still very popular and sought-after OM1N, OM2N and the OM4 variants. I certainly went straight for the OM4 after the OM1N.

I do not know what the story is about "infamous battery drain" issues with e.g. the OM4Ti. That was definitely not a problem for me, not friends at the time who used more than one of the OM4 in the ski season when the overnight temperature was quite frigid.

chriscrawfordphoto · Sep 7, 2017

Poisson Du Jour said:
Known as a bit of an oddball when it was briefly available here in Australia, and effectively passed over for what was then the still very popular and sought-after OM1N, OM2N and the OM4 variants. I certainly went straight for the OM4 after the OM1N.

I do not know what the story is about "infamous battery drain" issues with e.g. the OM4Ti. That was definitely not a problem for me, not friends at the time who used more than one of the OM4 in the ski season when the overnight temperature was quite frigid.

The OM-4Ti didn't have a battery drain problem. It was the original OM-4, the OM-3, and the OM-2s that had battery problems. The OM-4Ti and the later OM-3Ti both had redesigned electronics that did not kill batteries.

Theo Sulphate · Sep 7, 2017

OlyMan said:
...
Here's a couple of photos I took on some expired Kodakcolor Plus 200 near a local canal. ...

How can we possibly enjoy those photos when we don't know what the shutter speed and aperture was???

Otherwise, well done.

MattKing · Sep 8, 2017

I still have and use the OM-2s (as it was badged here) that I bought in the late 1970s. I made a point of using it in 2010 for the last rolls of Kodachrome I shot before the discontinuation of Kodachrome processing.
After that last roll of Kodachrome was removed from the camera, I took this as a sort of homage:

The spot meter is really useful. It shares the off-the-film metering that the other OM-2 versions offer, including the off-the-film flash metering, and I have several flashes that interface with that, including a Metz 60 CT-2, so I've got great servive from that.
I can't remember the last time I used Program mode.
I've had it CLA'd once. The only repair I've ever had to do was when the adhesive attaching the mirror gave way a couple of years ago. My camera technician had no trouble re-attaching the mirror correctly.
I've never had huge problems with the batteries, which usually last at least months for me.. I carry extra MS-76 (as they were once called) cels in all my camera bags.

BMbikerider · Sep 8, 2017

It is a long time since I owned an Olympus of any model, but one of those I had was a SP and yes there was battery drain. I never went out with the camera unless I had at least 2 sets of spare batteries. Then it was suggested that moving the shutter to the 'B' position would save the drain. Yes that worked, but you had to make an extra effort to remember to do it.
I wonder how this managed to happen? It was certainly not a problem with the OM2n or the OM4Ti. Design failure perhaps?

OlyMan · Sep 8, 2017

BMbikerider said:
I wonder how this managed to happen? It was certainly not a problem with the OM2n or the OM4Ti. Design failure perhaps?

There was no 'off' switch on the 2SP, 3(Ti), 4(Ti) and 40/PC; the meter automatically switched on when you lightly pressed the shutter button, and turned off some 30 seconds later providing nothing was still pressing it. The 'Ti' circuits had a timer that killed the power to the meter after 90 seconds even if something was still pressing the shutter button, such as foam padding in a camera bag or a coiled neck-strap. There were no other [power related] modifications. Since 'Ti' owners almost universally said their cameras didn't suffer from battery drain, one can only assume that this was a major contributing cause in many cases. But I've learned that aggrieved ex owners with strong views about the issue don't like to be told they exacerbated the problem with 'misuse'/poor storage techniques. Personally I've never found it much of a drama twisting the shutter to mech. 1/60th or B when I put the camera away, which would appear to be a cure (certainly has worked for me across four cameras). I find it no harder than flicking a power switch that the camera's aggrieved complainants wanted the camera to have.

Svenedin · Sep 8, 2017

I have 4 OM4-Ti bodies. One of them has always had a voracious appetite for batteries. This is probably a fault with that specific camera rather than a design flaw and it is a shame I didn't have it looked at when parts were still available. Sadly, the specialist OM repairers I've spoken to cannot get replacement electronics any more. The "B" trick does work though and is a sensible precaution. However, I have found a supplier of SR44, silver oxide, batteries (Rayovac) x20 for £11 so I'm not really that worried.

Les Sarile · Sep 8, 2017

If you suspect a battery draining board - which I understand that Oly offered board replacements back then, you simply put it on battery test and see if it stops by itself. If it stops in 30 seconds, you have the updated board. Mine are good.

RichardJack · Sep 8, 2017

I was a camera repair tech for Olympus. I had access to the whole line. After using an testing their lenses I shot with Minolta & Nikon. While they had a few gems, they were more concerned about producing compact lenses than image quality. In the 1970's & 80's it was difficult to have both. Their bodies were not sealed as well as some of the pro cameras of other brands with respect to the elements. The OM-10 was a real dog, electronics were always failing.

Les Sarile · Sep 8, 2017

RichardJack said:
I was a camera repair tech for Olympus. I had access to the whole line. After using an testing their lenses I shot with Minolta & Nikon. While they had a few gems, they were more concerned about producing compact lenses than image quality. In the 1970's & 80's it was difficult to have both.

I believe the magazines have previously published their findings of all the lenses of the era and I don't recall seeing any poor performers particularly the primes. All of my own tests of primes bought cheap and used - scientifically conducted repeatable verifiable, confirms that unless you are conducting controlled scientific testing, you cannot tell one apart from another.

I would be curious to know if you have any published results to support your claims.

nsurit · Sep 8, 2017

I have at least one of the single digit OM series cameras. The OM 2S is the sweet spot for my "go to" camera. I currently have 5 functioning ones that I use. They do die from time to time and I hope 5 will be a lifetime supply for me. Bill Barber

darinwc · Sep 8, 2017

I would like to have an Olympus 2SP. It seems like an evolved OM2. Just have not happened across one yet.

darinwc · Sep 8, 2017

Q: does the OM2sp use Mercury cells or 1.5v?

Regarding the system.. the cameras do have some common problems. Meters and electronics go bad. The prism foam eating into the prism silver is common. Battery drain. I would consider the OM1 and 2 good but not great. The OM4 seems to be very rugged and I think modern photography did a torture test and it performed very well. Just as the latter OM4's had a fixed meter correct that did not drain the batteries. Hold down the battery test and if it shuts off after 30 seconds you have the upgraded electronics.
Other things that bother me (om 1 2) are little bits on plastic used in the cameras. Wires going everywhere. The plastic flash mount. The nice viewfinder but just doesn't seem bright and contrasty. The chrome is somewhat thin and is almost always damaged under the flash mount.
On the om 4ti, the paint always seems to be flaking off.

Regarding lenses, their wide angle lenses seem to be better than their telephotos. I have the 300 f4.5 and it is good but the Nikon Ed 300 is way better. By design they have thin filter threads and can get dented easily. Also the helical grease seems to thicken over time and many Olympus lenses are a little stiff. (My Pentax screw mount lenses are all smooth as silk)

Les Sarile · Sep 8, 2017

darinwc said:
Q: does the OM2sp use Mercury cells or 1.5v?

Regarding lenses, their wide angle lenses seem to be better than their telephotos. I have the 300 f4.5 and it is good but the Nikon Ed 300 is way better.

OM2SP uses the 1.5v cels -> http://www.cameramanuals.org/olympus_pdf/olympus_om-2s_progam.pdf

Regarding the Oly and Nikon 300mm lenses, are you talking about optical and/or build quality?
If optical, do you have results that show the difference?

darinwc · Sep 9, 2017

Olympus vs Nikon 300mm. :. I was talking about the optical qualities. The Olympus has some chromatic aberration does not seem to have the 'pop' that I want. I only had the Nikon for a short while but I remember it having almost no ca and nice vibrant colors. I don't have any examples from the Nikon so that is completely ancidotal. When I get back to my PC I can try to find some examples from the Olympus.

MAubrey · Dec 2, 2017

Les Sarile said:
I believe the magazines have previously published their findings of all the lenses of the era and I don't recall seeing any poor performers particularly the primes. All of my own tests of primes bought cheap and used - scientifically conducted repeatable verifiable, confirms that unless you are conducting controlled scientific testing, you cannot tell one apart from another.

I would be curious to know if you have any published results to support your claims.

My experience is that in their chasing of compact size the only aspect of IQ that they sacrificed was vignetting--especially with the wides. The 24mm f/2.8 is a superb lens in size and in resolution, but its vignetting is always a big issue. Other than that, Olympus lenses, especially from the mid-80's onward, could most certainly compete with the best of Nikon and Canon.

Svenedin · Dec 2, 2017

MAubrey said:
My experience is that in their chasing of compact size the only aspect of IQ that they sacrificed was vignetting--especially with the wides. The 24mm f/2.8 is a superb lens in size and in resolution, but its vignetting is always a big issue. Other than that, Olympus lenses, especially from the mid-80's onward, could most certainly compete with the best of Nikon and Canon.

I absolutely cannot agree with that. I use an OM Zuiko 24mm f2.8 a lot and I have never noticed vignetting, not ever. I always use it with the appropriate lens hood. Use it it with the hood for a 28mm and it will vignette.

This photo was taken with the 24mm. It has been cropped at the top slightly but not at the sides or bottom. I can't see vignetting with this or with any other picture I've taken with it, whether wide open or well stopped down.

HMS Warrior

Svenedin
Nov 17, 2017
5

I've never taken a colour photograph of this ship before but I have photographed it many times...

MAubrey · Dec 3, 2017

Svenedin said:
I absolutely cannot agree with that.

Okay.

Les Sarile · Dec 3, 2017

MAubrey said:
My experience is that in their chasing of compact size the only aspect of IQ that they sacrificed was vignetting--especially with the wides. The 24mm f/2.8 is a superb lens in size and in resolution, but its vignetting is always a big issue.

Would like to see these results when you have an opportunity to post some. TIA.

OlyMan · Dec 7, 2017

Well we've now hit the four month marker since I pulled both my OM2SP and OM40 out of hibernation and put fresh batteries in them while I ran a film though them for the first time in three or four years. I routinely store both of them at bulb position, which may or may not be a contributory factor, but either way I can report the battery-check on both of them is still reporting sufficient power. If the batteries died tomorrow I wouldn't consider it to be excessive, especially when these are cheap alkalines that I bought in a strip of ten for £1. Probably costs me more to charge my mobile devices over the period of a week. These cameras' infamous battery drain problem has all but made it into photography folklore, however I haven't seen any proof yet that it wasn't just a case of accidental owner-misuse in most instances plus a small percentage that genuinely were power-hungry duffers.

btaylor · Dec 7, 2017

I did have a problem with light fall off with the Zuiko wides, I can't recall if it was the 28 or 35mm-- either would have been the slow version (because I didn't have any money when I bought them new in the '70s!). It was really noticeable on Kodachrome especially, probably at least a stop down. I would compensate by burning in the corners when printing, but it was on the slide and any commercial prints made from it. Since I longer use slide film the exposure latitude on negs make it not such a big deal. And if I needed to, I could certainly buy a faster and better example for pennies these days!

OlyMan · Dec 7, 2017

btaylor said:
I did have a problem with light fall off with the Zuiko wides, I can't recall if it was the 28 or 35mm

Can't say I've ever noticed it with my 28mm, but then again, by the time I bought into the system, the F/2.8 was cheap, so I didn't even begin to look at the slower F/3.5. This may be a contributing factor.

btaylor · Dec 7, 2017

I feel lucky that my film photography hobby, at least as it relates to gear, is so inexpensive these days. I can buy just about anything I lusted after when I was young, and I have! Great fun. I feel a real advantage over the guys (and they are all guys) that lusted after muscle and sports cars of their teenage years, as those old hunks now start at very big numbers for a decent example-- I enjoy watching those big auctions strictly as a spectator!

In defence of the OM-2SP

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