I'm lost

Ps1821 · Jan 29, 2013

I like bread also. It was just a weird question and yes occasionally I do make my own bread.

Ps1821 · Jan 29, 2013

Ok I see!

mark · Jan 29, 2013

It is a little known APUG fact that services can be paid for with fresh bread. Kind of our own little barter economy.

I was serious though, give us your general location in UT and people here will point you to someone helpful.

E. von Hoegh · Jan 29, 2013

Jeeez, guys. You're grilling him on his cooking habits?

Shutter speeds are designated in fractions of a second. The marking "1" means one second or 1/1 second. "2" means 1/2 second, "30" means 1/30 second and so on.
This is the length of time the film is exposed to light. A general rule to avoid motion blur is to use a shutter speed of 1 over the focal length of the lens you are using, that is 1/30 sec. for a 35mm lens, 1/60 sec. for a 50mm lens and so on. A better rule is to use a tripod.

Is your bread very good?

(there was a url link here which no longer exists)

Allan Swindles · Jan 29, 2013

Ps1821, you have had much advice and if you are a newcomer to this, it might be difficult to understand. Take pictures. Set the shutter speed about the same as the ISO speed (that's shown on the box/pack of the film), ie. ISO 100 shutter 125, (that's 1/125sec.), ISO 200 shutter 250,
(that's 1/250sec.) and TAKE PICTURES. Check your results and come back with your questions. If you took a shot of an F1 car on a racing circuit at 125 and wondered why it was blurred the forum will have the information as to why. Don't be shy, we all had to start somewhere, but do read and question what you don't understand.

tkamiya · Jan 29, 2013

Hey.... can I pay for my stuff in APUG classified with food? How about Sushi? I can't make bread but can make sushi....

Sirius Glass · Jan 29, 2013

Welcome to APUG!

Ps1821 · Jan 30, 2013

It is very good. And I live in Utah county. And the info I am receiving from you all is awesome! Thanks for the help!

Dan Fromm · Jan 30, 2013

Another book recommendation. To my taste, A. A. Blaker's book Field Photography (look for it on, e.g., abebooks.com, alibris.com, amazon.com) is the best beginner's introduction to photography ever written. It is far, far superior to sketchy and somewhat random advice delivered via bulletin board.

mark · Jan 30, 2013

Seems to me I have heard of someone in the Provo area. Too far north for me. Call the local community college to see if they have a regular non digital photo course you can take. In my opinion it would be well worth the money. When I got started I took a class and that led to the addiction I am dealing with today. Who knew that the little 35mm camera would morph into an 8x10.

SpunkySpine · Jan 30, 2013

Here's a bit more info on how film speed, shutter speed and aperture are related.

Start off with your film speed on a bright sunny day...
If your film is iso400 try these settings

Shutter speed is aproximatly 1/iso gives 1/400 but camera shutter speed which is the closest is 500 that translates to 1/500 of a second.
Aperture should be set on f16 for the bright sunny day.

So shutter 500 and aperture set on f16 allows a certain amount of light to hit your film and make the correct exposure.

There must be more to it than that you say...
Well...

If you were to change your shutter speed to 1/1000 (1000 on shutter speed setting) and
change your aperture to f11, you will allow the exact same amount of light to strike the film...

It is one shutter speed FASTER to give 1/2 the time for light to hit the film BUT...
it is also one f stop opening larger (bit confusing because smaller f stop opens up the blades in the lens more) allowing 2x the light to pass through the lens...

Final result... 1/2 the time by 2x the lens opening gives same exposure!

You will soon learn why we chose different shutter speed and f stop combinations for particular photos to accentuate what we are trying to show in our photos.

Hope this makes sense to you...

It is intended to give you some info one spoonful at a time.

Welcome to APUG from another Noobe to this site.

SpunkySpine · Jan 30, 2013

Oh... The other three variables in getting the PROPER film exposure are...

The film speed (ISO rating)
The intensity of light (sunny day, cloudy day, late evening, campfire etc.)

You will soon learn which film to choose.
You will soon learn how to use either your camera's built in light meter or a hand held meter.

No more on those items...

As I said... one spoonful at a time.

Ps1821 · Jan 31, 2013

Sweet this is good stuff! I have done some research but I can't figure out what flash I can use... Any suggestions?

E. von Hoegh · Jan 31, 2013

Ps1821 said:
Sweet this is good stuff! I have done some research but I can't figure out what flash I can use... Any suggestions?

Use any electronic flash. Just select the correct synch speed(s). That is explained in your owner's manual.

Ps1821 · Jan 31, 2013

And another question. Is there another kind of battery that I can buy instead of Mercury? (They don't make them anymore I guess)

Allan Swindles · Jan 31, 2013

Try this.

http://www.smallbattery.company.org.uk/index.htm

and this

http://www.oldtimercameras.com/Default.asp

SpunkySpine · Feb 1, 2013

Ps1821 said:
And another question. Is there another kind of battery that I can buy instead of Mercury? (They don't make them anymore I guess)

I have a few cameras that used mercury batteries. For any that used 1.35Volt mercury battery (button cell) I now use a WEINCELL battery. They can be found on e-bay with "WEINCELL" or "WEIN" CELL as your search term.

They are a zinc air battery. Yep, I know it sounds weird... but they have a very long shelf life and are not activated until you remove a covering off their Negative terminal. You're supposed to leave the the covering off battery for a day before you put it into service.

Sorry URL didn't work... Instead use Google images search for 1.35V Wein Cell

(They're used in my Minolta SRT 101 and my Yashica Mat 124G)

Now my Yashica Electro 35 uses a different battery (5.6V Mercury) that I sub with a 6V PHO 0230 and find it is close enough for the old camera to work properly.

Hope this helps.

Ps1821 · Feb 1, 2013

Does anyone have any good links where I can learn about ASA/din?

E. von Hoegh · Feb 1, 2013

Ps1821 said:
Does anyone have any good links where I can learn about ASA/din?

It's "ISO" now. http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Film_speed

E. von Hoegh · Feb 1, 2013

When you get tired of paying for Wien cells ( Dead Link Removed ) and replacing them every couple of months, go to the local drugstore and buy a 6-pack of #675 hearing aid cells for about the price of one Wien cell. Then get an 'O'ring(s) at the hardware to act as a bushing to center the cell(s) in your battery compartment.

Here's how to make the drugstore cells last a lot longer than Wien cells: After you peel off the tab, take some tape or glue and block/plug 3 of the four airholes in the cell case. Cells modified in this manner last over 1 year in my Nikkormat, but it will depend on your camera and how you use it.

Ps1821 · Feb 2, 2013

I am looking for a good wide angle lens for my ft ql. Any suggestions?

tony lockerbie · Feb 2, 2013

Good thing about FD lenses is that they are very inexpensive. Try the FD 28mm F2.8 for starters, good all round and cheap as chips. I think there are a couple of FD lenses in the Apug classifieds at the moment, worth a look.
I had my FT's converted to use S76 (silver oxide) batteries, not expensive and the S76's last for at least a year or two...also available everywhere.

Ps1821 · Feb 22, 2013

Any other sugestions?

Allan Swindles · Feb 24, 2013

Ps1821, you will learn most if you just take pictures and then ask questions about your results.

I'm lost

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