That widelux looks like fun.Still reading. For my AF Nikons I have the Nikon 28mm to 200mm AF zoom, the Tamron 28mm to 300mm zoom and they share a Nikon 20mm to 25mm AF zoom. My Hasselblads have their own set of lenses, but you are asking about 35mm lenses. I also have a WideLux F7 for 35mm panoramic photographs.
I'll keep an eye out for it.This lens for your d3100:
https://www.nikonusa.com/en/Nikon-Products/Product/Camera-Lenses/2200/AF-S-DX-Micro-NIKKOR-40mm-f%2F2.8G.html#tab-ProductDetail.ProductTabs.Overview
look on the second hand market where the price will be considerably lower.
You must have a knack for the canoe. The rapids were the fun parts, we were rolling over in some of the other parts however. It happened twice in one spot and I don't fully underatand why. After we emptied it and got back inside everything should have been fine but it sort of fwlt like something below the water just pushed ua over. The other tqo times happened because we got perpendicular to the current. One of those events was due to colliding with a tree because we couldn't get over to a narrow passage fast enough. Likewise, on the other occassion we had to move rapidly across the stream as we avoided multiple trees and we didn't make it.I think you are doing it wrong. The canoe should stay upright and the passengers inside it. I've never flipped a canoe in 30+ years of paddling, but I also avoid white water.
I shoot closeup a lot, but rarely macro (greater magnification than 1:1). I'm usually in the 1:2 to 1:8 range with a long lens and extension tubes to get close to flowers, insects, and small animals. I lately have been using a digital camera like the Sony A7R4 and 200-600 plus tubes. I also use medium format and large format, but mostly for plant details since they don't run away while I'm setting up the camera.
Fast moving water certainly increases the risk of tipping. But some canoes are more stable than others. I've used some pretty bad ones over the years and the worst of them, a very heavy fiberglass coleman for example, felt like they were going over in a calm lake.You must have a knack for the canoe. The rapids were the fun parts, we were rolling over in some of the other parts however. It happened twice in one spot and I don't fully underatand why. After we emptied it and got back inside everything should have been fine but it sort of fwlt like something below the water just pushed ua over. The other tqo times happened because we got perpendicular to the current. One of those events was due to colliding with a tree because we couldn't get over to a narrow passage fast enough. Likewise, on the other occassion we had to move rapidly across the stream as we avoided multiple trees and we didn't make it.
I need to study those extension tubes. Unlike the 40mm MadnBad suggested which is fast but it must be used very close, the extension tubes project the image wide like a teleconverter so they waste light and crop in on the middle of the image. Unlike the teleconverter which casts the image wider with a lens and crops it, the extension tube merely crops the image which is cast wider due to the increased distance between the lens and the sensor. I will get some tubes and try it since they are pretty affordable. They might work great with the kit lens or with my 35mm. How long are the lenses you are using? In the meantime I might try using my teleconverter on my 105mm or even on the kit lens. Did Iget it backwards? I read that extension tubes are leas impactful on longer lenses. I also read that they enable lenses to focus on objects nearer than they would otherwise do. Since the 35mm can't get much closer, perhaps the extension tubes will do better on the 105mm and the image from the 35mm will be better at macro when doubled with the teleconverter. There are so many options. It will be fun trying them all.
Thank you. It looks like my fondness for manual lenses with aperature dials will benefit me. Cheap extension tubes should work fine, but I will need to spend a lot more if I want to open the aperature on my kit lens. The sony will have the same problem. None of those alpha lenses have aperature controls.
Do you find that flashes are able to compensate for the loss of light?
If I understand what I have been reading then I will need 105mm of tubes to make the 105mm lens go 1:1 macro and even more tubes to go larger than life. Is that true? These tube kits are typically 64mm in length so Ibwill need at least two kits? What is the combined length of extension tubes that you are using on that 300mm lens?
hello & Welcome to Photrio! will you test new film in 2024 ?
Unfortunately this person has not visited us since Aug 20 2023. He was only with us for 15 days
pentaxuser
I hope, for change in the world. But my hope isn’t for a new film test.
Blue, no, yellow.
I had forgotten that bit so thanks. I need to see that brilliant film again
pentaxuser
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