Ilfosol-3 is the Dog’s Bollocks.
Simply the best.
With all films.
Excellent contrast while keeping the wee whites’ full details.
The Dog’s Bollocks, I’m telling ya’
——
According to the urban dictionnary:
In UK slang terms the "dog's bollocks" means the best. It comes from the habit of male dog's licking their testicles (bollocks) and that they must taste good as they spend so much time in this activity.
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Yes but is it as good as Fred Picker's miracle developer which make the blind see the lame walk etc - called HC110?Ilfosol-3 is the Dog’s Bollocks.
Simply the best.
With all films.
Excellent contrast while keeping the wee whites’ full details.
The Dog’s Bollocks, I’m telling ya’
——
According to the urban dictionnary:
In UK slang terms the "dog's bollocks" means the best. It comes from the habit of male dog's licking their testicles (bollocks) and that they must taste good as they spend so much time in this activity.
——-
4 minute development time with FP4+. Lifespan in a partially filled bottle of about 2 weeks. No thanks.
XTol Replenished FTW, now and forever.
I tired Ilfosol and did not care the grain, at some point I may give it a go with 4X5.
Personally think developers are the most uninteresting aspect of photography, second only to scanning.
What film did you use Paul ? I like it with HP5+ @ ei200 but I guess it is a subjective thing.
I have gone to Ilfosol largely because I had used Ilfosol S years ago and just couldn't find anything like it. It was crazy sharp with Old formulation Tri-X and I wanted to see if I could replicate that look with the HP5+ that I now use exclusively. It was also much more forgiving in highlights than HC-110 or espescially D-76/ID+11. Keeping the oxygen out is the key to storage. Turns out that plastic bottles aren't that good and glass is much better. Don't leave a half bottle lying around. Decant into smaller ones.At the time I was using TriX and Plus X, 35mm and 120, Tmax 400 in 4X5 so been a while. I currently use a Ultra Fine 100 and 400 in 35mm and 120, Foma 200 and 400 in 4X5, do not know who coats for Ultrafine, but I like it, develop in MCM 100, replenished. Reason I might try Ilfsol is that MCM is on the toxic side, not much of a issue when developing in daylight tanks, but when shooting 4X5 I use large tanks and hangers, would be a bit safer to use a less toxic developer. I brought a box of a clone Ilford ID 3, if it doesnt work out then I will try Ilsool 3.
Personally think developers are the most uninteresting aspect of photography, second only to scanning.
Ha ha.
I don't agree. If openend it stays good for at least 4 months. Then I finished my bottle.Ilfosal 3 is great till it goes bad, usually after about 2-3 months.
Good tip.I don't agree. If openend it stays good for at least 4 months. Then I finished my bottle.
Just spray a bit of butane (the gas you can get in tins to refill lighters) in the bottle after use. Butane is heavier than air and doesn't react with the developer.
I liked the results I got with Ilfosol 3. But I agree that the develop times for low speed films are really short. I always used 1+14 in with FP4+ and Acros.Good tip.
Last 2 bottles I had failed before the end. Obviously wasnt using it fast enough. It is nice on over exposed fp4, but what isnt. Liked the 4 minute developing time. Not so good on faster film. In the end it has become too expensive here and its just a developer, not going to make much difference to the end product when darkroom printing.
My conclusion is that your workflow dictates, or rather limits, your choice of a developer. Cannot speak for folks who wet print, I don't have that luxury. But those of us who scan prior to printing digitally, we must think about our approach to the complicated topic of sharpening.
Matt, sorry just noticed your latest comment. You are incredibly kind! I feel guilty for generaating all this work for you now. The post is already gone, I'll be more careful next time.
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