Ilford Xp2 with rodinal

Rhodes · Dec 23, 2009

Developed my second xp2 at iso 200 with rodinal 1:100, stand development. Here are some results.
I drive my grandmother and a friend of her, since it was their time to "take care" of the graves, changing the flours and light the candles in the lamps.
It can also be interesting since one, the persons who do not know how our cemiteries look like, can see how they are!
It was the last saturday, fall (almost winter) sunny day.

two of my grandmother

the lantern of my grandfather grave. Note that this kind of lamps are not the style used in this region. This kind is more use in the interior regions of Portugal. Here we tend to use a simple marble lamp almost the same color as the marble of the grave.

What do you think?

rwboyer · Dec 23, 2009

My experiments with old C41 film yielded very low contrast negatives - I assume you are cranking it up after the scans?

If so you may have a hard time printing it on silver paper. If not interesting results.

RB

Rhodes · Dec 23, 2009

Only a bit, after scanning the negatives!

Chazzy · Dec 23, 2009

I wasn't even aware that XP2 could be processed in a conventional black and white developer. Was this an experiment, just to see what it would look like, or have you been doing this for some time?

Aurum · Dec 23, 2009

Those results look very good. When I've tried this with normal colour C41, I've not had the best of results, which I've put down to the orange mask (which C41 colour tends to have) and the fact that C41 tends to be a bit lighter in silver than "Proper" B&W, as its just there for light capture, and something for the dye clouds to form around. It certainly isn't in the final negative.

So Rodinal 1:100 on stand. Can I ask what temperature, and for how long?

As I might give this a quick whirl on some cheap Kodak Colorplus I bought a load of

Slixtiesix · Dec 23, 2009

Weird! I would never have expected this to be possible...

Chris Lange · Dec 23, 2009

When I've done this, it's Rodinal 1+100 for 2 hours, agitate for the first 30 seconds or minute, and leave for two hours.

Rhodes · Dec 23, 2009

Chris, 2 hours? And how the results?

No, it was my second time. Temp was 20ºC, one hour stand. Agitation during the first minute (gentle) and then one hour stand! Aparently one can develop any film that has silver with a b&w developer, but the results may not be good. I even didn't know that one can use rodinal as a first developer for a slide film.
I tried once with kodak 400bn, and the result was terrible, because of the orange mask. XP do not have this mask, and the negs are purple.
I discovered this way of developing ilford c-41 bw film by this blog:
Dead Link Removed
I bought rodinal just for this!

Chris Lange · Dec 23, 2009

They come out great, but it's usually because I rate the XP2 at 400 or 800 instead of 200, and I also have a large backstock of expired XP2 and XP2 Super, so I give it a bit extra to account for the film's age.

Aurum · Dec 23, 2009

I'm impressed.

Rodinal: Check
C41 film (tonnes of) : Check
Empty Camera: Check

Itching to try something different : Check and Check again

keithwms · Dec 23, 2009

Nice results, very nice. I'd be very curious to see how they print and at what grade...

Aurum · Apr 26, 2010

Well just tried this with a colour C41 I got in a £1 disposable camera from poundland. The film was marked as Kodak 200, but I'm not necessarily convinced about that. Might have been a recycled canister, as there are no edge markings on there. (Is this a characteristic of disposable camera films?)

From first looks, good density negatives, the result not unlike the sort of thing you'd get with Kodak BW400CN. The negs are still somewhat milky, but thats because they haven't fully dried yet. When they're ready for the scanner, I'll post a few here

(R09 1+100, in water, agitate 1 minute, stand for an hour 20 Deg C, fix for 5 minutes)

This could be quite an interesting exercise...

Aurum · Apr 26, 2010

And from the plate of the scanner.....

Raw, No corrections, only editing was to shrink to 50% size so I could upload

Oh and yes, I really need to wipe the dust off the scanner as well!

Metroman · Apr 27, 2010

Works well in Dead Link Removed.

Anscojohn · Apr 27, 2010

Rhodes,
That last one, the fir stem on the marble, is eqsuisit (darn, I can't spell it).
Ek squiz it.

Athiril · Apr 27, 2010

Aurum said:
Those results look very good. When I've tried this with normal colour C41, I've not had the best of results, which I've put down to the orange mask (which C41 colour tends to have) and the fact that C41 tends to be a bit lighter in silver than "Proper" B&W, as its just there for light capture, and something for the dye clouds to form around. It certainly isn't in the final negative.

So Rodinal 1:100 on stand. Can I ask what temperature, and for how long?

As I might give this a quick whirl on some cheap Kodak Colorplus I bought a load of

Kodak recommend to improve b&w results by using fix + citric acid, they list it for Ektachrome nad Kodachrome only.. not sure why.. but it might be worth a test.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/ae31.pdf

Rhodes · Apr 27, 2010

Thanks Anscojohn!
Good results Aurum. I once, by mistake, developed a colour C41 form fuji, with rodinal 1+200 for one hour but it came out completly ruined!

Aurum · Apr 28, 2010

Athiril said:
Kodak recommend to improve b&w results by using fix + citric acid, they list it for Ektachrome nad Kodachrome only.. not sure why.. but it might be worth a test.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/ae31.pdf

I think reading between the lines, its to remove colour couplers which give a yellow stain. This is going to be of use with uncoloured base films such as E6 . For good old C41 colour, the orange base is going to mask off any slight staining anyway. For stuff like XP2 I don't think its an issue, but its useful to know just in case

Athiril · Apr 28, 2010

I might try it on some already developed colour neg, and some cross-processed colour neg when I visit the health food shop next.

It's interesting that it mentions that it can cause reduction of silver as an unwanted side effect though..

kintatsu · Aug 5, 2013

I've tried Ilford XP-2 Super with great results. I developed for 13 1/2 minutes in Tetenal Ultrafin 1+20, with 12 initial inversions, and 4 every 3 minutes thereafter, if my notes are right. The negatives were incredibly similar to other Ilford films, with no dyes or mask remaining.

Athiril said:
Kodak recommend to improve b&w results by using fix + citric acid, they list it for Ektachrome nad Kodachrome only.. not sure why.. but it might be worth a test.
http://www.kodak.com/global/en/consumer/products/pdf/ae31.pdf

Kodak BW400CN was terrible. The orange mask would not come out. Even scanning they are totally useless. I will have to try this one, with some modifications. My stop bath from Tetenal is citric acid, so it may work.

I processed some Ektar 100 in HP-110. The negatives look amazing, if only the dye will come out, the image will be what I was looking for. I'll definitely be trying this!

pdeeh · Aug 5, 2013

I've tried the Rapid Fixer + citric acid bleach on c41 developed in rodinal.
remember that your image in C41 monochrome developed in rodinal is still formed from silver, so the bleach will reduce the negative image as well as reduce the mask.
So you can easily end up with quite thin negatives, and, in my experience, rather patchy density.

markbarendt · Aug 5, 2013

Kintatsu,

BW400CN is a nice film when paired with the right paper, same for XP2.

XP2 was designed from the start to work with normal B&W paper so it never has a mask, regardless of how you develop it.

The BW400CN was designed to print on color RA-4 paper so the mask was designed to be permanent, regardless of how you develop it.

Ilford Xp2 with rodinal

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