Well, It is a kind of repeat of other posts. Xp2 is really fine grained, prints look good, scans great.
I really like this film's grain, sharpness and tonality, I wish there is a similar film in terms of grain that can be developed in bw chemicals.
C41 is an advantage as well as a disadvantage.
You can not do expose for shadows and develop for highlights thing. You can not compensate underexposure in the development and underexposed XP2 negs look awful, horrible. Giving your negatives to a lab is a risk. In my experience noritsu machines scratched lots of my XP2 negatives. If you do C41 dev. yourself it would be safer.
Again, I really like this film but I don't trust the commercial labs so I would pick Hp5+ or tri-x over XP2 anytime unless I develop it myself.
The whole point of using a C41 film is that you can dump it at the local mini-lab and let them deal with it. If a lab machine scratches negatives it's because the operator is careless, either careless in handling the film, or careless in making sure the machine is cleaned and maintained properly. Figure that if they aren't taking care of the machine, they probably aren't taking care of the chemistries either. Last time I got scratched negs from a machine, I complained to the manager, I also never went back to that lab again.
If your going to process yourself, then unless your home processing colour as well, it's better to use traditional B&W film and chemistries.
I agree, the reason why picking a c41 film. But these mini-labs don't care what did you shoot or how important it is for you. May be they developed 100 films that day and the 101th is your film. End of the day the chemicals are exhausted and the film is ruined. That's the risk that I was saying.
It is all about tastes, may be someone would pick XP2 over any other traditional B&W films and chooses to do it at home and do no color film at all. Who knows?
C41 is very easy at home, also quick and simple, certainly no harder than B&W. It's no big eal keeping the chemistry up to temperature for such short times. Buy the right kit and just make up what you need.
Ian
I finally found the images I wanted to share of the Kodak version of the B&W film that runs in C-41. This was shot with my M-2 with the 35mm sumacron. This was what made me think I would like to try the Ilford x-2 super.
It could be that this film was old and mistreated, considering the source, CVS drug store, but it was in date on the box.
Take a look at this and see if this is normal for that kind of film? Does one think I would get better results out of the Ilford film?
Lee
No understanding of how a minilab works. Chemicals are replenished at a set rate for consistent results. Your film will receive equally good developing at the end of the day as it will at the beginning.I agree, the reason why picking a c41 film. But these mini-labs don't care what did you shoot or how important it is for you. May be they developed 100 films that day and the 101th is your film. End of the day the chemicals are exhausted and the film is ruined. That's the risk that I was saying.
It is all about tastes, may be someone would pick XP2 over any other traditional B&W films and chooses to do it at home and do no color film at all. Who knows?
No understanding of how a minilab works. Chemicals are replenished at a set rate for consistent results. Your film will receive equally good developing at the end of the day as it will at the beginning.
Personally, I'd trust a minilab to get consistent results far more than I trust myself to. Obviously I do my best, but equally I've read the Kodak process monitoring documentation and I can safely say a lab doing all that has a far better handle on its process than I ever will! (Obviously, I don't use a replenishment system which avoids much of the headache, but the point remains that unless you're regularly processing test strips and measuring your output you can't even know whether or not your output is consistent; I wonder how many home-colour-developers even own a set of control strips.)I think there is a culture of 'blame the lab first' and as a former lab owner I've seen all sorts of photographer errors blamed on the lab, my favourite being it's blurred because you dropped the film
Good labs give good results find one and support it.
Of course, the main reason I DIY my own E6 (and C41 for that matter, but I hardly ever shoot C41 so it's mainly E6) is that it avoids the embarrassment factor of paying good money to a professional lab only for them to see how bad my photography actually is and wonder "who is this muppet?"
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