Ilford Warm Tone Developer

[david b]

Looking for some thoughts and opinions on using IWT with Ilford Multigrade Fiber and Ilford SemiMatte warmtone.

thanks.

 

[Gary Holliday]

I first liked WT semi matt for it's creamy highlights in the WT developer. However after comparing Forte PWT in 1+9 with the Ilford paper, I prefer he browner dark tones of Forte's paper. I found that Ilford's paper was too neutral toned in the blacks for certain prints.

At the moment I am playing about with different dilutions of the Wt developer, but love the softness that Ilford's WT and CT developers offer. I think I'm back to 1+9 for my preferred dilution.

I'm fairly sure that I'm having to scrub my trays that bit harder to get them clean after using Ilfords WT developer also! I haven't made any comparisons with Agfa neutol WA just yet, but as Ilford's developer is easier to get hold of and cheap I'll stick with that.

 

[AlanC]

I use Ilford Warmtone fibre a lot. Before Ilford (Harman) warmtone developer came out I used Neutol WA. This gives a hint of purple brown to the paper which becomes a stronger coolish purple brown in selenium. I find that Harman warmtone developer gives warmer tones, that become even warmer in selenium. I like to pull my prints before they get too warm, but this combination does give you options to suit your personal taste.
So I mostly use Harman warmtone developer with Ilford warmtone paper. But if I liked cool prints more, I would use Neutol WA more.

Alan Clark

 

[Lopaka]

Iv'e been trying this developer with Ilford Multigrade fibre and I like the tonal quality - better than Dektol. I have not yet tried it with warmtone paper.

Bob

 

[Leon]

my thoughts are it is great - my favourite combination infact. I agree about the state of my trays after using it though - it's not a clean developer, but it's very nice. I usually expose to develop for 2 mins only which enhances the warm feel and also means spending less time staring at trays in the dark .... I have used it for 1 1/2mins for even warmer tones. It's definitely more browny-warm with this paper than the agfa neutol which tends towards an olive colour.

 

[Rob Archer]

I've not used it yet as I've loads of Fotospeed WT10 to use up first. Does it work well diluted to 1+19 or more like the Fotospeed?

Rob

 

[Zvonimir Ervacic]

I've not used it yet as I've loads of Fotospeed WT10 to use up first. Does it work well diluted to 1+19 or more like the Fotospeed?

Rob

I experimented a little bit with Fotokemika Emaks in Ilford Warmtone and Cooltone developers. IWT 1+9 gives subtle tone difference on Emaks compared to Ilford Multigrade and Zone VI developers. 1+19 gives a little bit more tone effect and I didn't notice any colour shift.
Emaks in ICT 1+9 have stronger cold tone effect. Still didn't try it 1+19.

Pozdrav,
Zvonimir

 

[Mark Burley]

I've tried 1=9 plus 1=19 I have to say I am reasonably happy with either. I like the softness and warm tones that the Harman dev and paper give me. I try to keep the dev time under two minutes when ever possible. Normally aim to achieve three times emergence - dev wise. I prefer the warm look that this combination gives me.

I tend to work at a temperature of 27. I have found that the emulsion is very sensitive to damage though at warmer wash temperatures. I am still experimenting to find the right temperature level (wash-wise).

As for dirty trays - yup, this does seem to be worse with Harman Warmtone dev. I have to scrub mine like billyoh to get them clean afterwards. But we do have very hard water. So I would imagine that this makes it worse.

After all that though - I feel I will be sticking with this combination as it suits me fine.

Mark

 

[Trevor Crone]

I'm very happy with this developer and use it at a dilution of 1:9 at a temperature of about 25*C for no more then 2 min. This gives me a gentle warmth I like.

When I need a cooler print colour I mix in a little of their Cooltone developer (sadly no longer made, but fortunately I have a few litres). For example I will mix, 80ml of WT + 10/20ml CT to every litre of working strength solution. This gives me a very subtle duo 'tone' look to the print.