Ilford multigrade developer.. a "soft" developer?

[Candlejack]

So a few weeks ago I had asked about a good general purpose liquid developer for paper (im trying to stay away from powdered developers for various reasons)

Anywho, ive been experimenting with ortho lith film (im sure youve seen my different posts) and im reading about how some paper developers like selectol soft (or the legacy pro version of it) may be a good way to go.. but unfortunately.. those are powders and 1:1 or 1:2 formulas are given And and that doesnt seem very economical. Im mixing 1 liter batches of my current chems for my film development.

Is there a similar liquid "soft" developer or can I use Ilford multigrade as a "soft" developer? Im reading that normal dilution is 1 to 9 but an economical approach could be taken at 1 to 14.. (which im assuming would help lower contrast with the film development)

What do yall think? Id prefer liquid route.

If i did go to the powder route, that wouldnt be one shot right? I can develop a few tanks with that to kind of stretch it out?

 

[Candlejack]

What paper are you using? Unfortunately with most current papers the rather ancient notion of "soft" vs "hard" paper developers is long dead. Something like Selectol Soft will likely only make a small difference, if any.

The most flexible and controllable/consistent way to decrease print contrast is to use a lower grade of paper (or lower filter if using variable contrast paper). Alternatively if you are limited to a single paper grade, you can decrease contrast by approximately a grade by flashing the paper before doing the image exposure.

My goal is to actually use it with ortho lith film. The instructions recommend a powdered paper developer or selectol to develop it for less contrast.

 

[Ian Grant]

Soft developers like Ilford ID-3 and Kodak D165 (Selectol Soft) are Metol based as was Agfa Adaptol and the issue is youcan't mix a concentrated Metol developer because it begins to precipitate out. (there is an exception but it's not soft working and has a high pH) So commercial soft wrking developers were always sold in powder form.

ID-3 is a film or paper developer, Kodak's D-165 formula is identical but then one photo-chemist worked at Ilford, Wellington (his own cmpany), and Kodak Ltd (UK). It's a simple formumula and easy to mix yourself. It would be a good start for Lith film. Selectol (D156) isn't as soft working as D165 and was sold as a warmtone devloper here in the UK for use with Bromesko and Kodura papers.

Ian

 

[Candlejack]

Soft developers like Ilford ID-3 and Kodak D165 (Selectol Soft) are Metol based as was Agfa Adaptol and the issue is youcan't mix a concentrated Metol developer because it begins to precipitate out. (there is an exception but it's not soft working and has a high pH) So commercial soft wrking developers were always sold in powder form.

ID-3 is a film or paper developer, Kodak's D-165 formula is identical but then one photo-chemist worked at Ilford, Wellington (his own cmpany), and Kodak Ltd (UK). It's a simple formumula and easy to mix yourself. It would be a good start for Lith film. Selectol (D156) isn't as soft working as D165 and was sold as a warmtone devloper here in the UK for use with Bromesko and Kodura papers.

Ian

Thank you for explaining that. Im waffling back and forth between a soft developer or shortening my current formula developing time. (L110 (HC110 CLONE?) ) at 5ml to 1L for 18 minutes. Slight agitation at the 9 minute mark.

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

We use this developer at 1+14. Even at this dilution, I would not consider it a soft developer. Maybe at a higher dilution? The only time I've used it beyond 1+14 was to develop HP5. 1+49. Wonderful results.

 

[Candlejack]

We use this developer at 1+14. Even at this dilution, I would not consider it a soft developer. Maybe at a higher dilution? The only time I've used it beyond 1+14 was to develop HP5. 1+49. Wonderful results.

I just tried some shorter time periods with the L110. 1+ 200. 9 mins, 12 mins, 15 mins. No agitation. The results seem good.. but parts seem stained? Is there a danger to the achivability of underdeveloping film?

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

I just tried some shorter time periods with the L110. 1+ 200. 9 mins, 12 mins, 15 mins. No agitation. The results seem good.. but parts seem stained? Is there a danger to the achivability of underdeveloping film?

I think as long as it's thoroughly fixed and washed, it should be ok.

 

[Candlejack]

I think as long as it's thoroughly fixed and washed, it should be ok.

Sounds good. Ill post some pics of results on a few days !

 

[Andrew O'Neill]

Sounds good. Ill post some pics of results on a few days !

Look forward to it!

 

[esearing]

I have not tried this with Ortho film but it works on FP4+. Pyrocat M with double the Metol. Only 3 ingredients and you can use the standard Part B from Pyrocat HD. Gives a subtly "softer" less edgy effect than Pyrocat HD and you still get the benefit of staining. Or maybe add a bit more potassium bromide to any film developer.

Pyrocat M Stock A 1 liter
Distilled Water at 120F 750 ml
Metol 2.5g {5g for softer/less edge effect}
Sodium Metabisulfite 10g
Pyrocatechin 50g
Water to 1000ml

Use 1:1:100 and normal pyro times. Do not use stand or semi stand methods. Rotary may yield different results but in theory the cachetin should exhaust before the metol which would likely be softer. You can make smaller quantities than the 1L formula.