Ilford Hypam Fixer, ok for Pyro?

[bmac]

Is Hypam 1+4 ok to use with Pyro based developers?

 

[matt miller]

I hope so. That's what I've been using for my 8x10 Efke/ABC negs. Do you have reason to believe otherwise?

 

[bmac]

No reason to believe so, but I don't know enough about chemistry to know if it is the correct type.

 

[roy]

I use it, after a couple of plain water rinses. I think some use ammonium based fixer to preserve the stain but I have never found it to be a problem.

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

Ilford Hypam is an ammonium thiosufate based rapid fixer with no hardener incorporated. It works great with pyro because it does not contain a hardener. A non-hardening sodium thiosulfate based fixer will work equally well with pyro - just a bit slower.

 

[bmac]

excellent info, thanks!

 

[Snapper]

Is Ilford Ilfostop also ok to use with Pyro? I see some people use plain water - why is that?

 

[roy]

Is Ilford Ilfostop also ok to use with Pyro? I see some people use plain water - why is that?

Don't know about Ilfostop but I would have thought just about any stop bath would have been OK in the correct dilution. When I first used a staining developer, the article I read said that a good wash for the film was sufficient and would obviate any stain reduction through the use of another chemical, to wit, the stop bath. It is a habit that I have got into and use plain water rinses with agitation whatever developer I use !

 

[Tom Hoskinson]

An acid stop bath is not desireable and not needed with staining and tanning developers ("pyro"). Acidic solutions can reduce the stain.

A plain water rinse is fine - and it arguably increases fixer life.

Some workers use an alkaline fixer as a one-shot immediately post development (they add fixer concentrate directly to the used developer - post development).

Post development I use a brief water rinse, followed by an alkaline fixer (TF-4).