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ILFORD Delta Professional 3200 35mm and 120

Klainmeister

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From the looks of things, I might have to give it a shot! (placing an order for some other stuff soon). How does it perform in Xtol?
 

thegman

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I've ordered some XP2 for my forthcoming Super Ikonta, maybe some Delta 3200 soon, now that the nights are darker.
 

DREW WILEY

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Delta 3200 is my alter-ego when I want a break from large-format cameras and making big prints.
I absolutely love it in a Nikon tucked under my parka on a rainy day, and love its silvery scale even
more on triple-toned MGWT. Like the old saying, "a marriage made in heaven".
 

Roger Cole

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A little OT for this thread I know, but how do you triple tone MGWT? Sepia or brown plus selenium plus..? And in what order?
 

Mike Bates

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Thank you Ilford for the reassurance.

I probably shoot about 100 rolls of 120 Delta 400 a year, mostly in a portrait studio setting. I've completely converted over to Ilford films because of assurances like this they're in it for the long haul.
 

scheimfluger_77

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Ken I'm in the very same position as you and am rebuilding my darkroom equipment while I still have some disposable income. And I'm encouraged as you are. I seem to remember reading a few years ago during Ilford's restructuring that they vowed to be "the last man standing" in the analog photography business. I was glad to read that at the time but was somewhat skeptical given Kodak's long standing, but this does indeed seem to be the case. May it go on forever!

Steve
 

DREW WILEY

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Roger - sel 1:20 (cool and generally brief), gold toner, weak and cold, but anywhere from 30 sec to 5 min or longer,depending (longer toning is preferable to high concentration due to expense - basically
GP1 at half-strength). Order doesn't matter as long as the rinse between is thorough. But I generally
like to evaluate the cold effect of gold first. Last is Kodak Brown very brief, cool and dilute, which you already know how to do. This needs to mature in the rinse awhile to judge the effect, and if inadequate, can be treated a bit more (better safe than sorry). But MGWT is so wonderfully versatile
that I might skip one or the other toners relative to specific subject matter. I print these 3200 pictures real small, but mount them on a relatively large mat to draw attention in - quite a different
strategy than my large-format work, and more about poetic first impression rather than discovering
extreme detail. I love the classic work of Kertesz in this respect.
 

chriscrawfordphoto

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Can someone point me to some work done with Delta 3200 in 120? Piqued my interest....



I made this photograph of my grandfather with Delta 3200 at EI-1600 in my Hasselblad.
 

Roger Cole

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Thanks Drew. I have the selenium and have been meaning to try it with MGWT (so far I use it only for the slight cooling effect, neutralizing the green cast and archival properties on neutral papers.) The gold may have to wait. I'm not sure it's worth the current price to me to experiment with a toner. If the precious metal prices ever come down...

EDIT: Humm, you did mean GP as in Gold Protective? That price isn't so bad.
 

pentaxuser

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From the looks of things, I might have to give it a shot! (placing an order for some other stuff soon). How does it perform in Xtol?

Performs very well as far as I am concerned. Xtol has been my regular developer for all films including in the last 2-3 years. DDX is equally good and was my chosen developer previously but it is much more expensive unfortunately

pentaxuser
 

EASmithV

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D3200 is amazing, and I've considered getting a spare film back almost exclusively for it. Thank you for your clear concise communication, I seem to be buying more and more Ilford these days because I know I can trust it's availability.

If you haven't tried it in 120, you really should, it's incredible. I keep a few rolls of each format on hand at all times just to be sure I have some if I wanna suddenly shoot some low-light event. Even looks good in Rodinal!
 

Klainmeister

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Thanks guys. I've been slowly making a switch to Ilford because of their dedication to us. I think I'll try 3200 in Xtol for some wintry fun.
 

DREW WILEY

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Roger - I haven't priced gold chloride recently. Last time I bought it was $75 for a bottle of 1%. But
that will last me about a year. You don't need much if you use warm water and leave the print in longer. Even for 20X24 I only use 8 oz of water in a flat bottomed tray, slosh that around to keep
the print wet, and it's enough to do about ten of them at least. Once its mixed with the hypo you
can't keep it more than a couple of hours. You only need about half or quarter the official strength.
So per session it's not very expensive, esp if you are doing small prints. I esp like the way Ansco 130
works prior to toning; but if the glycin has aged or oxidized to a med tan color rather than gray it becomes downright magical with MGWT. But don't wait till the glycin goes deep cocao brown - it
will stain the paper itself badly by then.
 

MattKing

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If I recall correctly, Simon Galley is particularly fond of the Ilford Professional 3200 film for his own photography, so no doubt he was happy to be able to create this thread.

Any examples you would like to share with us Simon?
 

madgardener

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I took a look at some of the sample pictures that were posted here. That is 3200ISO film? There is hardly any grain at all! One of the posters uploaded a picture of his grandfather and after artificially enlarging the picture to an almost insane degree, I could *almost* read the dates on the calendar. That looks to be some amazing film! Does it look as good in 35mm format?
 

Dismayed

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Love Ilford, but some of my favorite emulsions are non-Ilford films. Now if Ilfors would just acquire Neopan 1600 and TMZ 3200 . . .
 

Roger Cole

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I think the official ISO is 1000 or thereabouts, like TMZ. But it's optimized for pushing without gaining excess contrast. It's a really good film, but what makes it particularly special (well, aside from being the only thing like it now - what made it special over TMZ) is the availability in 120. It's almost an inducement to buy a Mamiya 7 or the like just for this film, and it provides a great inducement for me to spring for the 80mm 1.9 for my 645 Pro. I haven't yet - the 2.8N is fairly fast for medium format and much smaller and lighter plus I already have it - but it would be a great match.
 

AlbertZeroK

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Yeah, i push it all the time to 6400 in my mamiya 7, unfortunately, you have to make an ev adjustment because the iso dial ends at 1600. And with the extra contrast of the mamiya 7 glass, it is yummy!
 

markbarendt

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Grain in any given film has given "size" per square inch of film. Larger formats spread the image over larger film areas so the grain is smaller compared to the scene/print.
 

Klainmeister

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Yeah, i push it all the time to 6400 in my mamiya 7, unfortunately, you have to make an ev adjustment because the iso dial ends at 1600. And with the extra contrast of the mamiya 7 glass, it is yummy!

Well I have one of those! Seriously, I am excited over this.
 

Roger Cole

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Funny (in the sense of "peculiar" not "amusing") to me that it seems to have taken the demise of one excellent film, TMZ, to really bring the knowledge of another excellent film, Delta 3200, to the forefront and get folks excited about it. But whatever works - it's a great film and lots of fun.

I haven't tried it at 6400 yet but will.
 

sly

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I've used Delta 3200 in 120 quite alot. It's been my favorite film for pregnancy/maternity/family shots for a number of years. I've been happiest with DDX as developer. (It helps that I bought a couple of cases of it cheap when they shut down the darkroom at the local college

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If Ilford made a lith developer and a more easily lithable paper, all my silver work would be with Ilford products. (Hint,hint Simon.)
 

baachitraka

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Presenting grain as an art is an art.