I indeed passed them through Schiphol, heh. But I didn’t see this result in my Delta 100 development though so I assume that wasn’t the case. Unless that ISO difference mattered.
Yes, film speed does matter. 400 is 2 stops more sensitive, also to xrays, than 100. And the push development will further lift this base density.
And @jimjm CT doesn't make the same wavy patterns that old fashioned x-ray tends to give. I guess we're still waiting for Mirko Boedecker's wife to post her findings (sorry, forgot her name; the Italian woman), but the images posted so far on her Instagram are very alike to what we see here. It's also consistent to what Kodak people have posted in the past on e.g. photo.net with x-ray especially raising base density and resulting in grainy shadows.
Fuethermore, a processing error generally doesn't produce a very consistent and high base fog. It's either uneven, or it's not present in unexposed areas. Chemical fogging is actually pretty rare if you look at the problems people tend to run into.
My money is on CT scanner damage.
I bet the Delta 100 that went through the scanner also has relatively high b+f, but this may have gone unnoticed. Compare to a roll from the same batch that didn't go through a scanner and see if there's a difference.
Although many people "push" film, it really does not achieve what they desire. Film needs a certain minimum of exposure, and extending development cannot compensate for underexposure, no matter how fervently one believes it. Super-speed films such as T-Max 3200 and Delta 3200 (whose true speed is around ISO 1000) are designed to allow for extended development.
I was always a "shoot at half box speed and nothing else" person since I got into photography, but now I see that there is more than one way to expose film. Push developing is fine up to a point. Normally, I work with HP5 at EI 250, but sometimes, to achieve a desired look, I'll set my light meter to EI 800, or even 1600. There are those who use this technique to obtain a certain look, not just to get more speed.
This is GAMMA at 5.00. This is more what it should look like. Try a very small piece of film -- no exposure -- and processed the way you did. Does it come out pretty clear, like this, or DARK, like yours???
View attachment 358735
I know @koraks and I will disagree on that
stannous chloride fumes
I am a little confused about this Can I ask what is "GAMMA at 5.00?" and are those negatives examples of a film with no exposure?
I am sure I have misunderstood what you meant but if you can clarify for me, I'd appreciate it
Thanks
pentaxuser
All I did was use gamma correction (decreasing the density of the shadows) on the original dark negatives -- Post #4 -- to approximate what a normal negative strip would look like. A gamma of 5.0 is a pretty severe correction. To need that either the film is really messed up, or the development -- or both.
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Gamma_correction
Sure it does when heated...
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