Ilfochrome directly shot in camera

ann

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years ago, and i mean years; i made some 8x10 images in camera using (at that time Cibacrhome) paper. Great fun.

a few years ago, i thought i would give it a another try and it was a failure.

i called Ilford (who then owned the company )to get some advice with regard to filters, etc. and at that time no one knew anything about making images in this manner. Perhaps , it was just a lottery, as to the technical support folks understanding the question. They were clueless and quite surprised that i would even be trying such a thing.
 

Photo Engineer

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You can shoot Endura in a camera and then cross process to a positive. You need the right filtration, but prints can be very nice.

See results on PN posted by Bujor B.

PE
 

Logan Group

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My experience with any paper is that your exposures vary widely based on the emulsion batch. How would you determine exposure times for this process?
 

Photo Engineer

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Endura color paper is made to a fixed speed and color balance just like film. Once you work out the filtration and exposure, you will get that result with many batches of paper. In any case, a 100 sheet box is rather inexpensive and you will have 400 4x5 sheets from a 100 sheet box of 8x10.

Then you can play all you want.

PE
 

sanking

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Can one buy Endura in 20X24" sheets"

Sandy King
 

Steve Smith

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I met someone last year who used to use Cibachrome in his Thornton Pickard camera. I have not seen any examples yet though.

Steve.
 

mammolo

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I have been shooting Ilfochrome in camera for the past two years. At least here in Europe you can still find both paper and chemistry with relative ease.

Shoot in artificial light (tungsten) while setting the sensitivity at 3 ASA. That's a good start. To play it safe you may want to put a UV filter in front but in artificial light I seldom felt the need.

Shooting in normal light is quite complex, as there is a cross-dependency between color shift and reciprocity failure. But it can be done once one works out the math.

Cheers
 

Bob Carnie

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Marco's ISO speed requirement seems to be right on from my memory,

Studio lighting should be a piece of cake Art if you leave the set up and filter, process, correct colour/density with filter/apeture/shutter . For outdoors you need to futz much more as the lighting is changing all the time. This was the big frustrating part for live shooting outdoors if one was trying to achieve correct colour density.

I can purchase this cibachrome paper for you and drop ship into the States so you do not have to deal with the border. you will need a Jobo system for processing. Chems which I can help you with as well drop ship. Not to hard for a very clever fellow as yourself to learn the process.
I am purchasing a portable Jobo Unit from John Callow that you can borrow when it is not being used on workshops.
There now , everything in place,
Bob
 

mammolo

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gr82bart said:
Marco,

Any chance we could see some examples?

Regards, Art.
Click to expand...

Sorry for the awful quality, I do not have a scanner, I just put the pictures on the floor and shot with the flash. Lots of artifacts everywhere, but you should get the idea. These are all 8x10. The first one is in artificial light, the other two in natural light. Shooting in natural light is not just a matter of the color temperature of the scene changing all the time (if the sky is clear it does not), but -again- because of the reciprocity effect that does not change just the exposure time but introduces a color cast as well. Bottom line: I bought about $500 of color correcting Lee filters, and I think this is a must if you want acceptable color accuracy (mind you, "acceptable color accuracy" not "commercial quality color accuracy": for the latter use something other than Ilfochrome-in-camera ...). Needless to say you need a color temperature meter, but the old Gossen Sixtycolor is ok. I develop it in a Jobo. I just finished writing an article on my new 14x17 that I use to shoot Ilfochrome (besides B&W). If all goes well it should appear in the next issue of Magnachrom.







 
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keithwms

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A similar thing happened to me when I called Ilford to see if I could get sheets of their "RC digital" paper, which strikes me as a good way to get extended-sensitivity when shooting directly to paper. Eventually I was referred to wynit, and the folks there were even more clueless. They wanted to sell me rolls of the paper for hundreds of bucks, that was the only option.
 

Bob Carnie

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Marcos

regardless of artifacts, very cool images, I can see you are having a lot of fun.

best
Bob
 

mammolo

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gr82bart said:
Marco,

Any chance we could see some examples?

Regards, Art.
Click to expand...

Art,

any chance I can get a quick "thank you"?

My apologies - what can I say - I'm a simple country guy: after going to my studio to pick three prints, taking pictures of them, resizing and uploading them to my site and putting them on-line I would have appreciated even a simple "tnx".

Regards
 

Bob Carnie

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Art travels pretty heavily and may not have seen this post.
He really is a great guy.
by the way how about Your Welcome to my post:munch:

 

Doyle Thomas

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Thanks Marco, I have been following this thread closely.

Doyle
 

Katharine Thayer

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Hi Marco,
I was somewhat interested in shooting Ilfochrome in pinhole cameras a long time ago as a result of seeing some examples in a book or magazine of pinhole photos made this way, but never got around to trying it. The examples I saw had very dull color, as a result of the combination of the reciprocity and improper filtering for natural light, no doubt. Your natural light examples are much more natural in color than the ones I saw; I'm impressed.
Katharine
 
OP
OP

gr82bart

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Marco,

First off, thank you for posting the images. I'm impressed with the level of vibrancy in the colour as I have heard they could turn out dull. These give me inspiration to give the technique a try.

Next, please understand that some of us aren't 'simple country guys' with nothing better to do than check all the 1000's of unread messages on APUG. And the 20 or so other community forum websites I an 'active' in. My apologies - what can I say? I'm a complex multi-city guy. Please understand that I do appreciate it when people post a reply to my query messages.

Yes, I do appear to be on here a lot, but that's usually between meetings when I am in my office, or for a few minutes when I'm in my hotel, or for the few minutes on my Blackberry when I'm traveling at the airport/in the cab/on the train etc... And then I only messages that appear at the top of the "New Posts" link. Saturday and Sunday mornings are when I really go through all the APUG messages.

Then of course there's the good chance that I forgot one of many posts I make.

Anyway, I don't know why I have to explain myself, but I did. Which reminds me I just the saw Fotoman banner and I think posted a question about those cameras. Got to find that thread now as I'm sure I POed someone else ....

Regards, Art.
 
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mammolo

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Bob Carnie said:
Art travels pretty heavily and may not have seen this post.
He really is a great guy.
by the way how about Your Welcome to my post:munch:
Click to expand...

It took me two hours to go get the pictures and put them on line. It took you 15 seconds to reply to my post.

But since you consider your 15 seconds as valuable as my two hours I do say "You are welcome" with all my heart.



Cheers
 
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mammolo

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gr82bart said:
Marco,

First off, thank you for posting the images. ...

Regards, Art.
Click to expand...

Thank you Art for you most kind reply in spite of my "ticked off" post. I got so annoyed by people's lack of recognition for the time that often goes into replying with substantative information to queries that once in a while I end up irritating people that have no fault at all. Like this time.

My bad.

Best
 

Bob Carnie

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Thankyou for considering the value of my time.
mammolo said:
It took me two hours to go get the pictures and put them on line. It took you 15 seconds to reply to my post.

But since you consider your 15 seconds as valuable as my two hours I do say "You are welcome" with all my heart.



Cheers
Click to expand...
 
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