Aluminum is fine
A balance between rigidity and light weight
Beauty gives pride of ownership
A field camera (as opposed to a studio camera) doesn't need detents.
Absolutely desire triple extension
Synthetic bellows is preferred
No rise and fall on the back, but full swing and tilt on back. Ample
rise and fall on front.
I am probably not your target audience being only an occasional user of 5x4" 'miniature' format but here are my thoughts:
I would prefer wood over aluminium for using in cold weather although aluminium would be stronger (what about wood veneered aluminium?!!)
As Phototone says, a balance between rigidity and weight.
I would never use triple extension myself but I think it would be desirable to many others.
I too would prefer synthetic bellows.
Steve.
Hi Barry,
I have been thinking about building a 7 x 17. I probably would just copy my 8 x 10 Wisner. I would want the camera to be as simple as possible and rigid even at the cost of some extra weight. No gearing necessary. Triple extension (my korona does not get it). Front rise, center swing and center tilt (I hate base tilt on front standards like on the sinars - so unintuitive), and shift. Rear swing and tilt (I can live with base tilt here and center tilt would probably complicate the camera). I have also thought about bulding an 8 x 20 with 7 x 17 reducing back. I'd like to be able to use a 30" lens on 7 x 17! I probably would design the rear standard for S & S holders.
I like wood.1. Would you buy a camera made from aluminum or would you only buy a wooden camera?
2 extra pounds for more rigidity would be no problem.2. What is more important rigidity or light weight?
Working with a nice camera is better. You would not ride an ugly bike because it lighter?3. How important is it to you that the camera is beautiful? Is it a tool, or a showpiece or both?
4. What features can you live without? What features can you not live without?
No5. Would you pay twice as much for a camera that had graduated movements and detent stops?
What would be the range of usable lenses on both standard and tripple extention?6. Do you use triple extension bellows often enough to add 50% to the price?
Synthetic is fine for me.7. Synthetic bellows are less expensive and more weather resistant than leather. Would bellows material be a deciding factor in your purchase and do you think there should be a choice?
8. Do you REALLY need rise and fall on the back? $$$$$$
One that everyone seems to forget is a lens board area large enough and strong enough to put a lens with an interesting signature on. I'd like to use a 19" Heliar on my ULF please. I'll likely get voted down on this one as big lens surfaces seem to detract from looks. 7" lens panel and some STRENGTH would be enough. The Wisner camera is a joke here. It gets nervous with a copal 3 shutter.
....
1. Would you buy a camera made from aluminum or would you only buy a wooden camera?
2. What is more important rigidity or light weight?
3. How important is it to you that the camera is beautiful? Is it a tool, or a showpiece or both?
4. What features can you live without? What features can you not live without?
5. Would you pay twice as much for a camera that had graduated movements and detent stops?
6. Do you use triple extension bellows often enough to add 50% to the price?
7. Synthetic bellows are less expensive and more weather resistant than leather. Would bellows material be a deciding factor in your purchase and do you think there should be a choice?
8. Do you REALLY need rise and fall on the back? $$$$$$
.
All in all, my point of view is that these cameras, especially in ULF are tools and I use them as such. I dont take much consideration for how the camera looks or whether its pretty, I like when they work instinctively/intuitively and function flawlessly.
Hope that helps barry.
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