If you could choose one GND filter...

[jasonjoo]

If you could choose one graduated neutral density filter, which one would it be? I've been looking at 4x6 GND filters to help control the highlights in mainly landscape images. Before, with digital, I would take 2 exposures and blend them together in Photoshop. While I could STILL do this with film, I would rather get the image right in the camera.

I'm on a budget (just bought some chemicals and darkroom equipment to start my own b/w processing!), so I'd like to invest in ONE single GND filter. I also have a Hoya Pro circular polarizer to use.

I'm leaning towards a 2-stop soft, but I'm really not sure how different soft and hard edges in a GND can be. Some people treat a hard and soft filter as 2 completely different tools to be used at 2 completely different situations. Based on the images of the filters, the difference doesn't seem to be too dramatic, but what do I know!

Your help would be appreciated! Thanks!

Jason

 

[wildbill]

2stop soft. flip it over with the edge of the filter on the horizon and you've got a 2stop hard that'll work for sunsets at the beach but not much else.

 

[Glenn M]

Depends partly on what lenses you are shooting, and what subject matter you are shooting:

If you are shooting general scenics with variable height horizons, and using regular to wide angle lenses, definitely go 2-stop soft gradiant. But... if you are shooting mainly flat-horizon images (ie: seascapes) and/or long telephoto lenses, consider the 2-stop hard.

On brands... assuming you are interested in quality of image: Would suggest Heliopan, Hi-Tech, Lee, or Singh-Ray. More expensive than others yes, but doesn't mess with colors and are made of optical quality materials.

On the Hoya polarizer you say you already have: If it isn't at least a Hoya HMC (Hoya Multi-Coat), and when your budget allows, you should replace it. The polarizing filter is THE most important filter in the stable... poor quality polarizers can be ruinuous to image quality. Poor quality polarizers causes color shifts, loss of contrast, blue-tinging of shadows, and will provide only limited range of polarity. I would suggest using Heliopan, Lee, Nikon, or Singh-Ray brand polarizers.

 

[jasonjoo]

wildbill, couldn't that introduce unwanted flare?

Glenn, the Hoya filter is a Super-HMC. The filter would be used for both landscapes with variable height horizons and the simple "ocean horizon." Based on the photos of filters I've seen, both filters looks identical, with the soft filter's edge being a bit more subtle than the hard filters. Is it simply the edge's of the filter where the soft/hard identity comes in? Or does the "soft" gradation occur starting from the top of the filter and slowly fade to clear?

Hmm, not sure if I'm explaining myself well, so I'll use a photoshop rendition instead:

I always thought that by "soft" the filter looked like what I labeled as "soft 2" and hard filters had a clean edge as displayed by "hard 2." However, just to clear any confusion, does a soft filter graded as showed in "soft 1?" If a soft filter follows the "soft 1" gradation, than I can definitely see why I'll need both a soft/hard GND as well as a reverse GND.

Thanks for the help guys. Feel free to laugh if you'd like. Even after 2 years of photography, I don't even know what the difference between a soft and hard GND filter is!

Jason

 

[jasonjoo]

OK, a quick internet search and I've found some good resources showing the differences between hard and soft filters.

Yikes, it seems like having a set of both would be very useful! Guess I may have to pick up both a soft and hard filter soon...

 

[Christopher Walrath]

Jason, don't limit yourself to just one filter if at all possible. You might start out with that GNDx4 but more filters means more opportunities. I have a GNDx1.4, a GNDx2, and a GNDx4. That covers most anything I come across and I can stack.

 

[Glenn M]

Jason - You'll find the degree of gradiant will not only vary between hard and soft, but if you can get a chance to view actual filters you'll also notice that degree of gradiant also varies between brands. I have both Lee and HiTech filter sets... the HiTech hard gradiant is "softer" than the Lee set.

And, as Christopher suggests... if possible get more than one gradiant... I have both soft and hard filters, sets of three each. The soft edge filters are used very frequently... all three sizes... often two used simultaneously. Don't forget that these grads don't have to be used only for skies... I've frequently used them upside down or to shade either left or right side of an image. I would at a minimum have a set of two soft edge filters (2 and 3 stop ones... or also called .60 and .90).

Glenn

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks guys. For the moment I'd like to purchase one to get acquainted with the filter and then add more as I develop a sense of what type of filter I'll need during specific situations.

Glenn, the bit you mentioned about variety between companies is a bit troubling! I'll have to go to a local store and see if they have a variety of filters I can look at. It seems like most people use Hitech and Singhray from what I've been reading.

Thanks,

Jason

 

[Arglebargle]

I'd get a soft, I even use them on seascapes and let the gradient fall over the water so the horizon between the water and sky looks more natural to me and it opens up the foreground.

 

[jasonjoo]

Thanks for the suggestion Arglebargle!

It seems like when it comes down to filters, many people have their own preferences and even have different methods of how they use them. I'll go with both a 2-stop soft filter and a 3-stop hard. I live near the ocean, so I'm sure the 3-stop hard will be useful. This is all very exciting!

If only there were an easy way to use GND's with a TLR

Jason