Again, not worse than the problem with dust on sensors.Sure, on the back, but what about the front of the emulsion? If the glass were on the front and the back was secured by a metal pressure plate, the introduction of "in focus" dust would have had the ready potential to be rather profound. And "telling" people to be "careful" would not be the same as telling them to imagine themselves as ants who can see dust as giant boulders. - David Lyga
The flat glass back on the Rolleiflex did it with few or no optical problems.It would have brought additional challenges with flare and light piping. I know because I tried.
You tried, Matt, but my stupidity beat you to the punch! - David LygaDavid.
You are analyzing the mid-points on the edges, when it is the corners that create the challenge.
Draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on a 24mm x 36mm frame. That line is ~43.3 mm long, and is the minimum diameter of a circle of coverage that minimally covers the 24mm x 36mm frame.
Now draw a diagonal line from corner to corner on a 36mm x 36mm frame. As that frame is taller, the diagonal ends up being longer - ~50.9 mm long, and is the minimum diameter of a circle of coverage that minimally covers the 36mm x 36mm frame.
When you compare the distances between the exact centre of the frame and the outermost corners (not edges) the distance on a 24mm x 36mm frame is about 8.8mm closer than on a 36mm x 36mm frame.
EDIT: I now see that others have help you clarify your quandary. Oh well!
As for frame format, it’s not just two cinema frames stuck together. The shape of the 35mm format was not randomly selected, but based upon the painters principle of the Golden Mean. There have been other frame shapes such as those introduced by Robot and early Nikon rangefinder cameras. Some APUG members will be able to list more attempts at different frame shapes by other 35mm camera makers. All failed at the market place because not only is the 35mm frame the most pleasing, but also allows some wiggle room for other frame shapes.
Nevertheless, being what were then called 35mm miniature cameras, film quality then did not allow the same flexibility for choosing the desired final frame shape from a more square like format as, say, a Rolleiflex or Super Ikonta B or larger cameras.
As for sprocket holes. As mentioned above, they are needed on both sides to insure film stability at the gate. 16mm movie film can get away with sprockets only on one side because width of film is much smaller. Smaller gauge Minox film needs no sprockets.
We sometimes forget, especially with high end equipment, that we are dealing with precision instruments.
If it is, it is not at all apparent to me.
Looking at the illustration on the right of Wikipedia page describing the golden rectangle.
The 35mm frame is nominally 36x24 so, a=24 and b=12.
and, (a+b) / a = 36/24 = 3/2 and a/b = 24/12 = 2
3/2 ≠ 2 ≠ 1.6180339887...
Have I misunderstood something?
Not true.I would just use one row of smaller perforations. I find it interesting that 35mm film, like 120 film could support a large number of image ratios, yet this ability, other than a few half-frame cameras was never exploited.
I like the 1.5:1 ratio, it just seems to fit in better with the way I shoot (A lot of my Yashica Mat photos haver a lot of empty sky).
Amazingly, despite all the film formats specifically designed for still photography, the clunky 35mm format, with all its wasted space, has outlived almost all of them.
In fairness to the truth, the 'clunky' format did not survive wholly on its own merits but, rather, primarily from intense pressure from photo finishers, especially from Kodak who did not wish to compromise the status quo. - David LygaAmazingly, despite all the film formats specifically designed for still photography, the clunky 35mm format, with all its wasted space, has outlived almost all of them.
~ 33.9 * 24 mm. So the diagonal is proportional to the square root of 2 and they could be printed on A paper sizes without cropping. While we're at it, make sheet film the same thing.
You'd need to have some rebate, for handling and edge protection (828 has about 1.5 mm on the non-perf side, 127 has 2mm or so on each edge, 120 is 3mm edge rebate). So you'd wind up with about 32x32 or 33x33 at most on a 35mm strip.
Were the asterisks put into place because you had just uttered a profane word? - David Lyga(if you want a d***tal product)
I took one of my 828 Kodak Bantams and filed the film gate to 28mm x 44mm (same ratio as the old 7x11in format from the turn of the 20th century) to get closer to a 'Golden Mean' frame in a compact format. It's 50% more area than a normal 35mm negative, and you have the benefit of being able to use cut-down 120 backing paper -- the 6x4.5 numbers give you a little safety margin. Like all 828 film, it's tough to scan (if you want a d***tal product) in its correct size. I had much worse luck trying to shave down an Epson scanner film holder from 24 to 28mm than I had filing that film gate.
Were the asterisks put into place because you had just uttered a profane word? - David Lyga
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