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ID'ing Negatives to Specific Holders

bobwysiwyg

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I know I saw a thread or two about this in the past, but darned if I can find them. The threads seemed to describe a method(s) of notching holders such that the notches appeared on the negative so you could track things a bit better through post processes. As I recall, there were a number of codification schemes described. Can anyone point me to these threads?
 
David -- to keep track of which negative came from which holder and to match them up with field notes.

Bob...some folks notch the end flap with different shapes to denote ones, fives and tens for their numbering system. I have also seen small holes drilled into the rails that hold down the long side of the film.

vaughn
 
Vaughn,

Yes, that's what I was referring to. I was going to try the notching of the end flap. The holes in the side rails sounds interesting. I'd have to figure out some way to not drill too far.. maybe some thin metal protector.

The reference to 1's, 5's and 10's sounds like what I remember, but I guess I'm having a senior moment trying to envision this.:confused:
 
So the idea with drilling the side rails is to put holes such that when the dark slide is removed, little dots show up on the film edge to identify the holder?

That's pretty intelligent. I wish I'd thought of it.
 
shotgun1a said:
So the idea with drilling the side rails is to put holes such that when the dark slide is removed, little dots show up on the film edge to identify the holder?

That's pretty intelligent. I wish I'd thought of it.
Click to expand...

That's the way I'm interpreting it.
 
shotgun1a said:
So the idea with drilling the side rails is to put holes such that when the dark slide is removed, little dots show up on the film edge to identify the holder?

That's pretty intelligent. I wish I'd thought of it.
Click to expand...

Yes, that is the idea -- unfortunately I can't take credit for the idea -- I bought some used holders already marked that way. The holders were differentiated by the location of the holes. I suppose a numbering system can be done with the holes...for example holes on the upper left could be tens, upper right could be fives and lower left ones.

Bob -- for the end flap, one could use different shapes to work along the lines of Roman Numerals -- a "V" notch for tens, a straight-sided notch for fives and a drilled hole for ones. Holder #14 would be marked "V.l", holder #3 would just be "..."

Another way for either the flap of the side rails would be to drill different size holes to represent 10's, 5's and ones -- if it is easy to tell the difference in size (it may not be if there is only one size hole needed for a number -- for the number 3, or 5, etc.

Vaughn
 
Notches

Here's how I've done it. This is the end flap on an old wooden 8x10 holder. I like the siderail idea, too.

Different shaped files can be used (circular, triangular, etc.) to identify as can spacing or positioning of the notches. It's very easy.

If in doubt, just slide the negative back in the holder and see if it matches. With the drilled siderails, that wouldn't be as easy to tell.
 

Attachments

  • notches.jpg
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The image is a great help, thanks. I see your point about after-the-fact verification by matching the neg to the flap notches. Have to give this some thought.

Using the side rails, one has a bit more room to work with. If I went that way, I'm thinking left side to indicate the side of the holder and the right side to indicate the number associated with the holder, assuming an external label also would go like 1-1, 1-2...10-1, 10-2 or something like that.

Normally, since I still have my training wheels on, I'm usually working with a limited number of negatives and it's not too hard to keep track. However, only a few weeks ago we were on vacation and only took a few loaded holders to do some LF "practicing." Turned out there were lots of nice photo ops so it was more than practice. Fortunately, at the last minute while packing the car, I grabbed the dark bag, a bunch of empty holders and film... just in case. Ended up shooting more than I had planned and keeping track, despite note taking (need to work on that too), I was a little lost later on.
 
Bob - just remember:

What you see is what you get.

If it's dark where your notches/drilled holes are, you get nothing.
 
My F6 has a feature to 'imprint' shooting data between frames. I would guess it uses an led display to make the exposure, sort of like the edge marking on roll film. There was a sheet film holder with a transparent wheel with black numbers that you would turn to mark a sheet when exposed.

Personally, I don't like hacking my holders up and have trashed several with drilled rails because it makes a burr that interferes with inserting the film.

I have always done just fine labeling my holders with a number and keeping notes. Just my 2¢
 
tim_bessell said:
..and have trashed several with drilled rails because it makes a burr that interferes with inserting the film.
Click to expand...

I wondered about that, keeping bits out while doing it seems a challenge and getting them out if you failed to seems pretty difficult. Perhaps notches in the flap would easier to pull-off without such problems.

Still thinking.. :confused:
 
bobwysiwyg said:
Thanks for the tip, but according to Amazon.com (one copy avail.), it would cost $999.99 to acquire this information.
Click to expand...

Way Beyond Monochrome Ed1 is sold out, but a much improved Ed2 will be available in the spring of next year. Hopefully, that will also be the end to crazy 2nd-hand book prices. Until then, try the attached pdf.
 

Attachments

  • FilmHolderIdentityEd1.pdf
    55.2 KB · Views: 268
bobwysiwyg said:
Shouldn't the area beneath the side rails fix clear as unexposed.. normally?
Click to expand...

When the exposed (by notching) and adjacent bits of film area happen to get 'exposed' to very dark bits in the scene, so will they, and you'll see no notch.
 
Very nice system, Ralph. But given the choice, I don't actually mark my film holders -- I print and show the film rebate on my platinum prints, so prefer not to show any such marks as part of my image. I can scrape off the dot that shows up on the holders I bought that have the holes in the side rails if I need to.

But if I did "disfigure" my film holders, I would keep in the tradition of APUG and use the old Roman numbering system instead of a binary system.

Vaughn
 
Q.G. said:
When the exposed (by notching) and adjacent bits of film area happen to get 'exposed' to very dark bits in the scene, so will they, and you'll see no notch.
Click to expand...

Hmm, I'm a novice at LF and sometimes dense, I guess, but I don't quite understand this. The notches will tick-out into the unexposed edge beneath the flap lip, right? Wouldn't they reveal themselves as dark against the otherwise clear, fixed edge, or am I missing something...still?
 
Bob, the film under the rail will not be exposed -- thus clear. If one has a hole in the rail, but the "image" thrown onto the hole by the lens corresponds to a deep shadow in the scene, then the film under the hole will get no exposure -- thus remain clear. Same with notches on the flap.
 
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